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I have an 89’ f250, under the hood is all aftermarket, the guy before me did it and put a 5.0 v8 engine in it, I had problems with the voltage for a while before, it seemed like a parasitic drain, I got under the dash and found out the guy before me was under there and didn’t plug something in all the way, my gauges started to not work so I got under there with a bulb I thought would fit (it didn’t) I put it all back together and I had my voltage problem again, I got back under it the next day and made sure everything was plugged in properly, and my problem was fixed, now here’s where my new problem begins, it has started to stutter at an idle, but not when it’s cold, only when it’s warmed up on a long drive, and it doesn’t stutter in park. Got stuck in heavy traffic on a freeway one night and it felt like it was going to die on me, shaking intermittently, but my voltage was at 13.9, which is normal. I cannot figure this out for the life of me. My father was the one to help me with these thing’s but I lost him recently and so I’m at A loss.
I have an 89’ f250, under the hood is all aftermarket, the guy before me did it and put a 5.0 v8 engine in it, I had problems with the voltage for a while before, it seemed like a parasitic drain, I got under the dash and found out the guy before me was under there and didn’t plug something in all the way, my gauges started to not work so I got under there with a bulb I thought would fit (it didn’t) I put it all back together and I had my voltage problem again, I got back under it the next day and made sure everything was plugged in properly, and my problem was fixed, now here’s where my new problem begins, it has started to stutter at an idle, but not when it’s cold, only when it’s warmed up on a long drive, and it doesn’t stutter in park. Got stuck in heavy traffic on a freeway one night and it felt like it was going to die on me, shaking intermittently, but my voltage was at 13.9, which is normal. I cannot figure this out for the life of me. My father was the one to help me with these thing’s but I lost him recently and so I’m at A loss.
I have no idea what the hell the first 3/4 of your post means, but I would say undo all wiring rigging... check all power/ground connections, and pull battery cable to reset the learned behavior so youre starting fresh. once you do that.
PULL CODES
Eec-IV codes can be pulled with a paperclip, but a cheap tool from the auto store will display them numerically for you so you dont have to count flashes on the dash. You can google from that information (EEC-iV code reading) to learn how
I have no idea what the hell the first 3/4 of your post means, but I would say undo all wiring rigging... check all power/ground connections, and pull battery cable to reset the learned behavior so youre starting fresh. once you do that.
PULL CODES
Eec-IV codes can be pulled with a paperclip, but a cheap tool from the auto store will display them numerically for you so you dont have to count flashes on the dash. You can google from that information (EEC-iV code reading) to learn how
I added the beginning part because I assumed it was a voltage issue because everything else is in amazing condition, figured a bit of a backstory would help.
I will check all my grounds and wires but it only seems to do it when I sit at a light or in traffic for a while, never in park
Pull each fuse from the power box and check for corrosion. Before you put them back clean the contact legs. The fuse that goes to the ignition system needs to be really clean or the problem you describe can occur.
Also check the ignition switch and the inside fuse box.
B51
Pull each fuse from the power box and check for corrosion. Before you put them back clean the contact legs. The fuse that goes to the ignition system needs to be really clean or the problem you describe can occur.
Also check the ignition switch and the inside fuse box.
B51
ignition switch is brand new as of a few months ago, and fuses are also all good because I checked them when I had my voltage problem