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Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the dual alternator setup for an 05 6.0? Had the top alternator fail on the way home Friday but luckily both batteries stayed up to 11.3 to 11.6 V before I got home. Was watching my Edge like a hawk to make sure I didn’t get down to 10 or below. I had thought that the bottom alternator was still in the battery circuits somehow, but it didn’t seem to help out at all when the top failed. So obviously I don’t know how this system works.
The truck came with a snow plow kit that’s never been used. I can’t really trace the yellow 4awg wire that comes off the bottom alternator. And holy crap it’s a pain to get the back belt loose with the bottom alternator in place. Just trying to decide if I should just abandon the bottom alternator since it’s obvious it’s never been used.
The PCM should have engaged the lower alternator. I don't have the '05 diagram, but can give you the '03 literature, which I believe is the same.
To convert from dual to single, you need to insert a plug into the connector on the passenger inner fender which was used for the single alternators so the PCM does not have control of which alternator to engage, or both. But you would not be the first to discover the second alternator was dead and you never knew it until the primary alternator failed.
There is a thread over in PS.org for how to do this without getting the plug, which should be almost a no charge at any salvage yard that lets you pick parts yourself.
It would be nice if there was a way to monitor the output voltage of each alternator. Since the load, (batteries) are tied together, it doesn’t seem like a possibility. The faults on either alternator that set a code don’t seem to be related to the output voltage.
Anyone think of how to monitor these in the past? I don’t want to try and reinvent the wheel.
You’re right, looks like a current clamp is the way to go. Was hoping to add something to my Edge CTS2, but there’s no accessory that would work in their add on cabling for that. It would be nice to have it all integrated into one screen, but I guess where do you draw the line as far as monitoring? I could just use my meter and check them every now and then, like during regular service. In the meantime, I’ll need to make a decision on the bottom alternator. Is it worth it to keep it based on how I use the truck, or get the cable and a normal CAC tube to eliminate it? I’m leaning toward eliminating it.
Both options have been done, I see it as a personal call, influenced by the need for electrical power.
If you stay with duals I would buy one and leave it on the bottom alt feed. You'll see when it's activated by the PCM and notice if nothing for some time (weeks), the lower has an issue.
Both options have been done, I see it as a personal call, influenced by the need for electrical power.
If you stay with duals I would buy one and leave it on the bottom alt feed. You'll see went it's activated by the PCM and notice if nothing for some time (weeks), the lower has an issue.
I think this is a great idea. I’ll be looking into this some more and see what I can find as far as a gauge. Thanks for the help guys.
Now, if you'd just get rid of that turbo-dusting hot-air-intake...
I hear ya. It actually isn’t too bad as far as heat unless you’re sitting in traffic. Then the IAT rises pretty significantly. Once rolling it comes back down to ambient. Haven’t had any dust at all on the turbo impeller. I do get a little oil on it from the breather, but nothing gritty. Then again I’m not on gravel or stone roads much. It is something I’m keeping an eye on though. Knowing what I know now I would have chosen a different intake. One that’s sealed and a true C/A intake.
A year later, (almost), and score on the parts for single alternator set up. I was in a local junk yard looking for a plastic fender skirt for a jeep renegade. They didn’t have anything as new as a renegade yet but while I was there I figured I’d see if they had and 6.0s. The first SD the guy brought be to was gas. We eventually found the one 6.0 he has on site, and it’s an ‘06.
They won’t let anyone pull their own parts which I get since folk now seem to care less about others belongings. They would destroy a $100 part trying to get to something worth $2. I pointed to the CAC tube and the tensioner and inquired about a dummy plug, but wasn’t sure at the time where it was located.
I went home and followed the wiring on the bottom alternator and found the connector on the passenger side fender, as pointed out last year in this thread. Picked up those parts the following day and asked about the dummy plug. Since they really didn’t know, they let me root around in their junk ‘06. BINGO!! Found it. $60 for the adjuster and CAC tube, no charge for the dummy.
Just thinking, I may go back and grab the turbo for a rebuild core. We’ll see.
Pulled the bottom alternator, removed wiring, installed dummy plug, and removed the belt. As it turns out, I can leave the original bracket in place as well as the idlers as they don’t really hurt anything. Saved everything in the event I want to put it back as original.
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