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Stripped threads on oil line fitting at HPOP.
Some background. I just rebuilt this engine. It has about 1600 miles on it. The reman HPOP had roughly 250 miles on it when I tore the engine down for rebuild so it was fresh.
I did not upgrade the oil lines at that time, trying to save a few bucks. They were not leaking so I figured I could wait a bit.
Passenger side fitting at the head started leaking just a little at just under 1100 miles and got steadily worse. Ordered New upgraded lines with JIC fittings from Rifraf Diesel after talking to Clay. I was concerned about the difficulty of the install but decided that less possibility of leaks was worth it.
All went well until tightening the oil pump fitting closest to the front of the engine. Could not get a wrench in there and still turn it.
Got a crows foot with an 18” ext. and 3/8 ratchet to do the trick. The problem was that with the extension deflection I couldn’t tell how tight the fitting was until it was to late. Stripped the threads in the aluminum HPOP housing.
Now the Delimma. Should I just bite the bullet and buy a new HPOP, is there any possibility that there is a heli-coil for that thread count and if so would it be a good idea with the possibility of metal shavings entering the pump, or should I try to locate a used one and transfer the internals from mine since I know they are fresh. With that last option my concern would be the integrity of the replacement housing.
I just read this post to be sure auto-correct hadn’t traded some words for me. I think I have answered my own question. I say just buy a new HPOP, everything else is in some way questionable. Even though it might work I would still worry about it. But I would still like to hear the opinions that anyone would like to share. I got a lot of great help and advice from this forum when I was rebuilding this engine and am very thankful for it.
Thanks for that ESwift. I took your advice and looked them up on the web. I had not heard of them. I emailed customer service about my situation but I don’t expect to hear back till next week. I’m thinking my unit is probably useless even as a core unless those threads are repairable.
Yep that isn't a job the average shade tree would want to tackle. Now if you're a machinist, and could source or make the required inserts then sure. Otherwise better to let a professional handle it.
Gotta say I'm surprised Bosch hasn't made a revision to the design. Between the temperatures, vibrations, and pressures those ports are subjected to, cast aluminum wouldn't be my first choice for the threads.
Got a very quick response from CNCFAB to my email. They do not offer repair service. Since they would have to dismantle the pump to install the insert they would not re-assemble with my used parts.
But, if the lead time is reasonable I’m going to order their stage 1 HPOP. It is a reman with a 1 year warranty and all of their remans come with those stainless steel inserts you mentioned. It’s also a slight upgrade from OEM, the price is very good and I haven’t found any others with more than a one year warranty.
Got a very quick response from CNCFAB to my email. They do not offer repair service. Since they would have to dismantle the pump to install the insert they would not re-assemble with my used parts.
But, if the lead time is reasonable I’m going to order their stage 1 HPOP. It is a reman with a 1 year warranty and all of their remans come with those stainless steel inserts you mentioned. It’s also a slight upgrade from OEM, the price is very good and I haven’t found any others with more than a one year warranty.
My apologies on my advice being off, I was under the impression this may be something they would do.(based off an inquiry of mine a year or more ago when I had a line fitting come out of an adrenaline that didnt have the inserts, was wot pushing an aggressive tune and higher then normal icp. I ended up going another route so I never did send it in for repairs.
The stage 1 will serve you well if you go that route
No apology needed. Happy to get the advice. I had not heard of them before.
This forum is my go to place if I need to know something about my truck. So many friendly people with so much knowledge and experience. I can always find the answers I need here. Thank you all for making this available and thank you for your help.
I have seen the terminator T500 hpop guy post on Facebook says he repairs the threads in them for free if any of his pump ever strip out. Might be worth checking with him and see if he could repair yours. Cnc has fast shipping if they have part on stock. I got my hpop from them in 3 days but it was also in stock. Check and see if he has any in stock.
I’ve already emailed them again to check availability. If they can ship immediately I’m going to order today. I’ve decided to just go ahead and replace rather than repair if I even could. I will just be more comfortable with that. If the old pump ever failed I would want to kick myself for being a cheapskate just like on the oil lines and fittings that started this problem. If I had done it during the rebuild I wouldn’t be having this trouble
Stupid thing is that I cut no corners on the internals. Replaced everything, sleeved all cylinders, align bored, new cam bearings resized rods, polished crank, ground and polished cam, machined heads, new guides and springs, new lifters and pushrods, pistons, rings, bearings, new injectors. Even a lot of external stuff. Water pump, thermostat, alternator, tensioner starter, engine wiring harness, rebuilt turbo with new stand and up-pipes, rebuilt the fuel filter housing, replaced all the sensors, belts and coolant hoses. But I didn’t replace those oil lines. Looking back I can’t understand why I thought that would be ok. Just stupid!
luckily it didn’t cost me the price of the entire engine. Just the price of the HPOP.
Anyway, I m through kicking myself node now. Thank you for the suggestion on the repair option.
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