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Does the drain plug on the engine have any type of gasket? I have a slight drip that appears to be coming from the drain plug itself. Figured at my age it’s time I learned to do some work on my own, especially in todays economy. And my wife says I am mechanically inclined. I tend to screw things up.
To make sure it's not lose put a wrench on it and give it a tug. It should be tight. You shouldn't have to put your feet on the frame and grab the wrench with both hands ROFL
I have lots of tools and it it's broke and I try to fix it and it just gets worse well it was already broke I just helped get it to the trash in style LOL
As for oil changes these trucks hold 3 gallons of oil which is a lot of oil and it's a pain for me to drag it to the recycle to get rid of it so I just go to the dealer. You can bring in your own oil and just pay for the quick lane service. I have the same issue with fuel filters. What do you do with the fuel that comes out of the filter? I made a friend at my dealer and I get good prices on my parts. So I usually get oil filters then quick lane it.
I see you have a 2012 so it might have a steel drain plug with a gasket that you can replace. There is a chance that you have a yellow plastic plug and they have o-rings that can be replaced. In either case they don't need to be extremely tight, just get new gaskets as needed..
As mentioned earlier the first thing to try is snugging it down just a bit. If that doesn't work throw some scrap plywood under the engine where you park the truck and change the plug gasket at the next oil change. I don't know what is on yours but it might have a sealing ring built into the plug and in that case the whole plug should be replaced. I'm going out on a limb and assuming there's no damage to the pan where the plug seals.
If you don't want to wait for the next oil service, I've changed pan plugs without draining the crankcase. You just have to have someone hold the hose of a good shop vac over the oil fill. The vacuum will keep the oil in when you pull the plug. Worked for me with a Chevy 350 and a Ford 352. The oil may be a little deeper in your 6.7 but my old Craftsman shop vac wouldn't care...
Last edited by Sport45; Oct 4, 2022 at 10:35 PM.
Reason: Corrected spelling
Thanks for all the input. I’ll try tightening first and then go from there. I was thinking of doing my own oil changes but 3 gallons😱. I’m gonna need a bigger bucket. Yeah that much I’ll have somebody else do it. Thanks again for the assistance. A lot of good information.
As mentioned earlier the first thing to try is snugging it down just a bit. If that doesn't work throw some scrap plywood under the engine where you park the truck and change the plug gasket at the next oil change. I don't know what is on yours but it might have a sealing ring built into the plug and in that case the whole plug should be replaced. I'm going out on a limb and assuming there's no damage to the pan where the plug seals.
If you don't want to wait for the next oil service, I've changed pan plugs without draining the crankcase. You just have to have someone hold the hose of a good ship vac over the oil fill. The vacuum will keep the oil in when you pull the plug. Worked for me with a Chevy 350 and a Ford 352. The oil may be a little deeper in your 6.7 but my old Craftsman shop vac wouldn't care...
Your joking right? Just do a quick change, pull to old and quickly get the new in, you lose a few quarts and it's messy but that working on any vehicle.
Your joking right? Just do a quick change, pull to old and quickly get the new in, you lose a few quarts and it's messy but that working on any vehicle.
Shop vac (not ship) and no, not joking. You can pull the plug and not lose any oil. I didn’t come up with the idea myself. I think I read it in a Popular Mechanics magazine in the ‘70s. It worked for me the first time I tried when my neighbor cross threaded his drain plug on a SBC. Had the plug out long enough to get an oversized self tapper lined up and installed. YMMV
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