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Ah, peeling back some more layers of the onion. This picture shows a problem. Is it THE problem? Don't know, but it should be corrected. It didn't look so bad in the other pics, but it looks pretty ugly in this one. Per my previous comments, the gear teeth are barely engaging judging by the wear pattern. That means either the starter is not in the correct position, or the starter gear is too small.
Considering the severe bend in the plate, the starter is not staying properly located relative to the plate and flywheel. It might work fine when first bolted in place, but there's nothing to stop the starter from creeping outboard away from the flywheel. The bolts only provide the clamping force and do NOT prevent the starter from moving sideways. Think of the nose of the starter as a giant dowel pin, and the index plate as the hole where this giant dowel fits. The index plate itself is precisely positioned by a pair or normal-sized dowels (1/2"?) between the engine block and bellhousing.
To fix this twist, you can remove the starter and gently pry the plate away from the bellhousing. Drive a pair of screwdrivers just inboard of the two starter bolt holes. You will actually be bending the whole plate out slightly, maybe an 1/8", but the force is not being applied in the narrow area outboard of the starter. Any bend you create will be slight and not in a critical area. With the plate pushed out slightly like this, use some thin pliers to straighten the critical area outboard of the starter. You may need to use a hammer and thin plate of steel as an anvil. You want this area as straight as possible to make sure it lays flat when the starter is reattached.
When you reinstall the starter, it should squeeze the plate back down flat. Be absoposilutely sure the index plate is flat outboard of the starter. Make sure the edge of the starter nose is acting like a dowel pin against the edge of the corresponding hole in the plate. If not, don't just slap in the starter and hope for the best. Get that plate flat so you know it's right.
. I have had the truck for a month now and this is so far the 3rd starter now, they have all been tested good at the part store and all have had started great for a few days or two, then out of nowhere it just starts making them at engaging sound without turning the flywheel over.
What do they say at the parts store? The starters keep testing okay (see my previous comments about the absolute uselessness of an unloaded bench test) but they keep giving you another one anyway?
One of your pictures showed part #R613160A, which corresponds to a remanufactured (term used loosely) unit from O'Reilly's. Sorry, but in my over-inflated opinion, they are one of the worst vendors out there. They compete on price alone, with a "lifetime" warranty that defies logic. By its very nature, a starter is an expendable part that will wear out and can't last forever. A year or two? That seems reasonable. A lifetime? Not so much. The lifetime warranty is a marketing gimmick for the most part. With the discount chains, the reman process itself is usually little more than new brushes, fresh paint, and a spiffy cardboard box.
I compared prices with other vendors. O'Reilly's was $100. Considering you've had 3 free replacements, the actual value is more like $33. NAPA sells a starter for the same application for over $200. (Watch out, as they also have cheaper offerings to compete on price). Does the top-of-the-line NAPA version come in a nicer box? Do they use a better grade of spray paint? Maybe, but the big difference is going to be inside.
If you need to replace the starter again, I would strongly suggest cutting your loss and get a better quality brand.
Then tonight I decided to replace all new wiring to the battery...
That which has been seen cannot been unseen! Make it stop! 'Scuse me while I sob uncontrollably in the corner...
Your new cable between the (+) battery post and starter relay (aka solenoid) is going to give you nothing but trouble. If not now, it will in the future. I have posted specific instructions of what to do if you want to install a bolt-on emergency battery terminal, post #16 in this troubleshooting:
After following those instructions, go back to the end of post #1 in that guide and do the voltage drop test. A starter requires a massive jolt of current to get itself spinning properly before engaging the flywheel. If anything is restricting this current flow, the starter gear may not snap properly into place. Is it the whole problem? Probably not, but do check it anyway to be sure. Don't just blow off the test, thinking everything must be good because the cables are all new. Test them anyway.
Did your starter relay also come from O'Reillys? This may be of interest to you:
In a nutshell, some brands are pure junk right out of the box, and I don't have a lot of faith in the house brand at O'Reillys. The most common fault is sticking on when the key is released, but other faults can cause the starter to misbehave.
Looking at your picture some more, be sure to get a battery hold-down.
One last thought: The truck has an automatic transmission, right? Remove the starter and push on the flexplate (flywheel). Use a socket and breaker bar on the front of the crankshaft to manually rotate it 45 degrees or so. Push on the flexplate at several points to make sure it isn't cracked. If it is, the ring gear can move aft, away from the teeth on the starter.
Still thinking here. Make sure the dowel pins are installed between the engine block and bellhousing. These two pins pass through the index plate and are what align it to the crankshaft and flywheel. If the engine or transmission has ever been swapped, sometimes guys don't notice if the dowel pins are missing. Everything bolts together just fine, or so it seems. But the bolt holes are deliberately sloppy, and everything could easily be misaligned by a 1/16" or so without the dowels. Doesn't seem like much, but that could easily cause the starter gears to not mesh properly with the ring gear.
You should be able to check for the presence of the dowel pins without any disassembly. Here's a picture, stolen from this build thread:
On the left side, you can see the protruding pin sticking out about two inches below the far-left red bracket on the engine stand. On the right side, the pin can be seen just above the far-right red bracket.
The holes for the dowel pins are drilled all the way through the aft flange on the engine block. Get down there with a inspection mirror and flashlight to see them. Or you could poke in there with a small screwdriver.
With all this cranking you have done, what condition is the battery in? Is it fully charged? I had trouble with the starter not engaging on a 65 Fairlane (essentially the same starter with a longer nose and different gear). The motor spun happily, but the bendix never engaged the flywheel. With a GOOD recharge, it worked. At least try jumping it if you can't charge it.
With all this cranking you have done, what condition is the battery in? Is it fully charged? I had trouble with the starter not engaging on a 65 Fairlane (essentially the same starter with a longer nose and different gear). The motor spun happily, but the bendix never engaged the flywheel. With a GOOD recharge, it worked.
You should not have to jump a fully charged battery. It makes for misleading troubleshooting. Jumper cables are for when you're stranded somewhere with a battery that's only partially discharged, just low enough to keep from starting. Once you get home, put away the jumper cables and figure out why the battery was run down so you don't get stranded again. Jumper cables are the equivalent of crutches, for temporary use. If you break your leg, concentrate on fixing the problem versus learning how to get around on crutches permanently.
I'm sorry. (sniff, sniff) but... but... the OP said it was in a parking lot and needed to get it home. I was just suggesting jumping as a quick parking lot test.
What happened in the pictures above? Looks like the plate is cut out? If it is, you are sunk. The plate is the only thing that properly locates the starter. The plate, whether it's bent or cut out is your problem like the others have already said.
What happened in the pictures above? Looks like the plate is cut out?...
Sure looks like the twisted portion of the index plate was completely cut off with a hacksaw or similar. If that's true, you've just made LOTS more work for yourself.
Please see the many previous comments about how the nose of the starter fits like a big precision dowel pin in the index plate. If the big corresponding hole in the plate is no longer accurate, the only fix is to replace the plate. That will require pulling the engine or transmission.
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Jumper cables are the equivalent of crutches, for temporary use. If you break your leg, concentrate on fixing the problem versus learning how to get around on crutches permanently.
