bolt ons
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: iowa
bolt ons
I have thouyght about headers and like the hedman headers for $135. I am only willing to put them on if i can get 15 hp and 15tq out of them. I they offer less i am not interested. I have heard several people say the stock manifolds are very restrictive on the fe. I have a 4bbl with dual exhaust am am wondering weather you guys think i could get 15 hp from long tube headers. Also i was wondering what you guys think about underdrive pulleys. I am aware the underdrive the alternator and charges less. I was looking at march pullleys but they are for 4 bolt dampers and i think i have 3 bolts are 3 bolt holes in my current crank pulley.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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i recently put headers on mine, it had a 4 bbl 750 edel, and an edelbrock sptp manifold with stock exaust manifolds...i noticed a big difference adding headers to the 4 bbl set up....as long as you have a decent dual exaust after the headers, you should notice an improvement.........as for the pulleys, yes the stocker has 3 holes but i'm sure some one makes 3 bolt after market pulleys, and if they dont then some one may offer a balancer with a 4 bolt pattern........
if your lookin to get some extra power from underdrive pulleys, think about just replacing the stock fan with an electric......and by the way, if you buy headers, best wishes on installing them.......................
if your lookin to get some extra power from underdrive pulleys, think about just replacing the stock fan with an electric......and by the way, if you buy headers, best wishes on installing them.......................
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
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From: Texas
I think you'll pick up 15+ easily going from stock logs to long tube headers.
My 2 cents, forget the pulleys and put the money into a quality header. I've had bad luck with even the $225 Dynomax headers. Other have had success with cheaper brands, but Ithink tis is one of those place where you definitely get what you pay for.
I paye $650 for my last set and I am thoroughly impressed. They from FPA. They are ceramic coated which adds about $220.
My 2 cents, forget the pulleys and put the money into a quality header. I've had bad luck with even the $225 Dynomax headers. Other have had success with cheaper brands, but Ithink tis is one of those place where you definitely get what you pay for.
I paye $650 for my last set and I am thoroughly impressed. They from FPA. They are ceramic coated which adds about $220.
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Joined: May 2002
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From: usa
i have a cheap set on my truck (cheapest i could find). it made a differance in the preformance. i would suggest a set of copper gaskets at both the collector and the head. i've been through a couple of the paper sets already and finally put on the copper. real joy to run with no leaks.
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: SD
I have Dynomax ceramic coated long tubes ($225 from Summit). I'm happy with them, installation is a little tricky and the header has to be unbolted and engine raised to replace the starter - but that's pretty normal for 'cheaper' headers. They don't leak, look great and I noticed an improvement right away, over the old logs. I'm running true 2 1/4" duals with glass packs. Get a starter heat sheild or blanket and put it on when the headers go in - heat is hard on the starter.
Marty
Marty
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Coquitlam, BC Canada
I was wondering Would you notice much differance if you got shorty headers over full length ones?, shortys just seem like they would be alot easier to put on and less heat on the starter.
Joey
Joey
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Texas
I never got the Dynomax to seal in my 69. And they had to be beat up to fit with the Bendix power steering gear. They are now rusting away in my shop :-(
look at the flange and quality of these FPA:
http://www.thedreyerfamily.com/69f25...FPAheaders.htm
look at the flange and quality of these FPA:
http://www.thedreyerfamily.com/69f25...FPAheaders.htm
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Texas
Well, back when I was on a tighter budget, I think I always ended up spending just as much after doing the same task for the 3rd time trying to use the cheaper parts.
I'm not rich, but it is nice to be DINKS!
I'm not rich, but it is nice to be DINKS!
Last edited by gtex; Nov 12, 2003 at 04:35 PM.
will be paid off 
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Oregon
Yes, headers are not an area you want to go cheap on. The headaches poor quality headers easily offsets the cost of the high dollar ones. You might also consider a "tri-y" design. This configuration works particularly well on truck applications. From personal experience, I can recomend Stan's, but those FPA's look good too. The cermic coating gets spendy, but its well worth it in my book.
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Maine
I have a cheap set of headers on my 77, with 390 and i have no complaints, yes you do have to unbolt them when time to replace starter but i have never had to raise moter up. i think that the cheap headers get the job done.
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From: Maine
gtex, i was mudding with some freinds in a local swamp/bog and a freind got stuck way out, nobody could reach him, and most got stuck while trying to get him out. so not only did i have to pull out the one way out but 5 of them that tried to pull him out to begin with and thats how the name came around. so now we have a four wheeling club in Maine named Swamp Donkey Mud Racing
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