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I am not sure that there is a scanner that can make the solenoids clicking/cycling for a test.
I know after the KOEO self-test and the Continuous readout is done you can change state of all of the solenoids/relays for the engine with the output state check.
But I am not sure if this test will do the solenoids for the transmission or not.
The transmission codes are in the 600 codes section. You should be able to get any codes you need. Here is an easier way to get codes with a paperclip or a jumper. You do have to count flashes so a pen and pad are helpful. You need to run Key On Engine Off codes first and clear any before running engine running codes. After the test runs KOEO codes it will have a separator code of 10 and go into Memory codes which are not currently active but were at one point in time and may offer clues.
The shop just informed me that they looked under the truck again at some of the connectors on the transmission and found a few wires that were rubbed bare and touching each other. I believe they said it was near the connector on the rear passenger side of the transmission, but they didn't clarify very well which connector it was, so I will confirm and share when I determine which one it is.
They ordered a new pigtail for the connector in question, whichever one it is, and will install it and test the transmission again when the pigtail comes in.
He says he's pretty certain that this is the root cause of the issue, so here's hoping this is the solution!!!
I have seen that before as the heat from the exhaust kinda melts those wires.
Ford put a heat deflector there to protect the connector but that connector is sometimes left off.
That is C1048 the Shift solenoid plug.. Attachment 277855
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My transmission does have have the little cover plate there, but my exhaust is not original, and is even further from that connector than the factory setup was, so I wouldn't imagine heat to be the key culprit in this case, but who knows?
Sorry it took me so long to get this posted, but several wires at shift solenoid plug were bare at the ends, and making contact with each other. Ultimately, this was the cause of the problems. How the wires were stripped bare near the connector, I'm not sure, but replacing the chunk of harness around that connector has resolved the issues I was experiencing previously.
THE CULPRIT!!!
Thanks for all of the help and support from everybody, I really appreciate it!
Wiring does tend to fail at the connector like that. When the harness moves, wire in the middle can flex along its whole length, so the stress is spread out. Wire at the ends is held solid against something hard, so it fatigues more quickly. Laptop charger cables and wired headphones tend to fail the same way.
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