AC addon
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 295
Likes: 7
From: Central Montana
AC addon
I'm hoping to add ac to my 84 f150 4x4 and I've been struggling to find a kit or conclusive help. I'd just take it off a parts truck from the scrap yard but all the yards in my area seem to have crushed anything that old. Any advice?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 295
Likes: 7
From: Central Montana
According to my vin if i decoded it right this was a 351 4 bbrl converted to a 2 bbrl if that matters?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,966
Likes: 2,728
From: Virginia
A/C for these trucks is not an easy conversion. The complete firewall needs to be stripped out from the center to the pass side and large holes need to be cut, the heater core will then be relocated along with a new ductwork box underneath the dash along with the wiring. That is why back in the day, they had a "dealer add-on" A/C kit that the dealers would install. If you could find one of those, that would be the way to go. But of course it will be old and need a complete rebuild by now. You can also buy A/C add-on generic kits from people like vintage-air. Usually those units hang underneath the dash.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,860
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
A factory take off is not a bolt on to a non AC truck as the firewalls are different.
They say you can cut the 3rd big hole and a few small holes to get it to bolt up but I did not go that route.
Also the dash boards are different AC has the vents nonAC dose not.
Motor brackets for compressor you can get from JY if you can find them.
Radiator & supports are different between the AC and nonAC as are the fans. Some AC have shrouds for the fan like the 300 six motors nonAC no shroud.
I also don't know of a kit sold that fits our trucks as I have not seen one listed but if you call you may find someone dose make one?
BTW I replaced half the firewall so I could bolt in the factory AC box, dash board, radiator & support all from my parts truck.
Dave ----
They say you can cut the 3rd big hole and a few small holes to get it to bolt up but I did not go that route.
Also the dash boards are different AC has the vents nonAC dose not.
Motor brackets for compressor you can get from JY if you can find them.
Radiator & supports are different between the AC and nonAC as are the fans. Some AC have shrouds for the fan like the 300 six motors nonAC no shroud.
I also don't know of a kit sold that fits our trucks as I have not seen one listed but if you call you may find someone dose make one?
BTW I replaced half the firewall so I could bolt in the factory AC box, dash board, radiator & support all from my parts truck.
Dave ----
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,966
Likes: 2,728
From: Virginia
I looked, vintage air only offers a builders series with a under dash unit, more of a universal type system. All the aftermarket air manufacturers seem to only offer custom fit units up to 1979. Nothing 1980-up.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,158
Likes: 1,167
On the slim chance you find a junkyard donor with aftermarket AC, there’s something else to consider. Although the installation would be easier (no firewall mods), many of those parts are pretty much unobtainable today. I’d hate to see you go to all that effort, only to need some unavailable part in the near future.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 295
Likes: 7
From: Central Montana
A/C for these trucks is not an easy conversion. The complete firewall needs to be stripped out from the center to the pass side and large holes need to be cut, the heater core will then be relocated along with a new ductwork box underneath the dash along with the wiring. That is why back in the day, they had a "dealer add-on" A/C kit that the dealers would install. If you could find one of those, that would be the way to go. But of course it will be old and need a complete rebuild by now. You can also buy A/C add-on generic kits from people like vintage-air. Usually those units hang underneath the dash.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 295
Likes: 7
From: Central Montana
Dave has some good advice about adding factory air to a non-AC truck.
On the slim chance you find a junkyard donor with aftermarket AC, there’s something else to consider. Although the installation would be easier (no firewall mods), many of those parts are pretty much unobtainable today. I’d hate to see you go to all that effort, only to need some unavailable part in the near future.
On the slim chance you find a junkyard donor with aftermarket AC, there’s something else to consider. Although the installation would be easier (no firewall mods), many of those parts are pretty much unobtainable today. I’d hate to see you go to all that effort, only to need some unavailable part in the near future.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 295
Likes: 7
From: Central Montana
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 295
Likes: 7
From: Central Montana
Yeah I'm noticing. Eh if i can at least get my truck to not the heat permanently on i can probably do without ac
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,966
Likes: 2,728
From: Virginia
A lot of Fords, even my 65 mustang, circulated hot water through the heater core at all times. They just sealed it off with a door when heat was not wanted. But as they get older, the seals on the door rot off and the cables can get a little out of adjustment, and the heat leaks in. What I do now on mine is put valves in the heater hose lines and turn the water off to the heater core during the summer. Makes a big difference. It's also a problem with A/C trucks also. There is a retro fit you can make with a mid 90's ranger and install the vacuum valve that came on those year rangers in one of these trucks with A/C, and the A/C works much better with the water turned off the heater core. I have done that to my 1989 I have.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 295
Likes: 7
From: Central Montana
A lot of Fords, even my 65 mustang, circulated hot water through the heater core at all times. They just sealed it off with a door when heat was not wanted. But as they get older, the seals on the door rot off and the cables can get a little out of adjustment, and the heat leaks in. What I do now on mine is put valves in the heater hose lines and turn the water off to the heater core during the summer. Makes a big difference. It's also a problem with A/C trucks also. There is a retro fit you can make with a mid 90's ranger and install the vacuum valve that came on those year rangers in one of these trucks with A/C, and the A/C works much better with the water turned off the heater core. I have done that to my 1989 I have.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,860
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
I did the heater core vacuum valve shut off but I had to mod it to work.
My HVAC control must leak a little and it could not move the valve so I have to cut the spring so the vacuum could move it.
Also between years the HVAC controls work differently where some when on vent it closes the heater core and others do not, guess what one I got
I also I think it leaks so I may pull it but not sure because I use the hot water to heat the intake manifold as i run EFI EXH manifolds on my 300 six.
Dave ----
My HVAC control must leak a little and it could not move the valve so I have to cut the spring so the vacuum could move it.
Also between years the HVAC controls work differently where some when on vent it closes the heater core and others do not, guess what one I got
I also I think it leaks so I may pull it but not sure because I use the hot water to heat the intake manifold as i run EFI EXH manifolds on my 300 six.
Dave ----
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
They do help a bunch. Think going from Death Valley to summer in West Texas... about10-20 degrees cooler. I do open the valve once a week for a few minutes to get fresh coolant in the heater core. Don't know if it is required, but having stagnant coolant in there for months at a time seems unwise to me.