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Grabbing more images that I can find. From that thread, there were some improvements back in 2012. Interesting dual valve. As it was mentioned then, how much do the two segments close from the filter.
An easy way to check if the anti-drain back valve was the culprit would be to remove the drain valve and use a rubber plug in its place, as well as the stand pipe hole. Then fill the canister with oil and check the leak down.
Good morning friends. Again for me to understand: the Anti Drain Back valve is opened by the pressure from the oil pump and allows oil flowing into the filter housing. It closes as soon as the oil pressure disappears. The seal is made by a spring loaded rubber washer, so should be 100% tight as soon as the engine stops and the oil pressure disappears.
The Oil Filter Drain valve is actuated by the filter, it closes as soon as the filter is screwed in, but I don't see a proper seal here, I had it disassembled above.
I will have to make a small Oil Filter Drain valve test setup....
I don't think the filter drain valve has to have the seal you believe it needs. It's also interesting as it has two springs and how the two parts may move in the housing. I don't have one loose to play with. Without the canister bolted to the base, you might want to put an oil filter on as it would typically be and see how the filter interacts with the valve. I might buy a used base so I can play.
The anti-drain back valve is not spring loaded; when oil pressure from the pump drops to zero and oil starts to flow back towards the oil pan, the valve drops by gravity, along with the weight of the oil column above it, sealing to prevent more flow. It keeps the oil pump filled with oil and the oil canister.
The spring-loaded brass valve is the cooler bypass valve intended to open whenever oil pressure in the cooler exceeds the oil filter canister pressure by 25psi (?). Apparently, that happens often, most likely during cold starts when the oil has the most viscosity.
What is the difference in the drain valve and the anti-drain valve with regards to the contribution to draining the oil from the filter housing when the engine is off?
I'm not sure without having the circuitry or that valve to play with. But for whatever season, when Racor designed this, they did not emphasize making the drain valve with the same sealing construction as the other two valves., a rubber gasket to a lip.
As I was hunting through the old threads about oil coolers not cooling as well, back to Nylyon and myself, or about the oil gauge not coming up immediately, 3-5 seconds seems to be average at time cold start. I see a longer rise time with my oil pressure gauge, although the first movement off zero most times is 3 to 5 seconds.
In one of the threads, the author said when he looked closely at the filter engagement, the valve only moved 1/16" to 1/8". And the base has posts to protect how far it can be pushed. It's an odd assembly, spring-loaded in two positions, and I haven't found any close-up image showing it installed. The bottom lock tabs and the outer spring almost seem like the body is also lifted off the base seat.
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