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Hello, I am new here and looking for information on my 1970 E300. The steering bell crank is washed out and needs to be worked. I need a starting point for parts. Do you have numbers?
You need watch ebay, I sold mine to a guy overseas, friend on fb, I bought it 10 years ago for my 73, tho never needed it, so I put it away, you can check the group on facebook, but they likely will direct you to ebay, that is the only place I've seen them, other than that, you could try to see if a machine shop can create one, anywhere else you find it listed you will find they can not get it.
This is the replacement bushing The new bushing comes with the silver sleeve. you have to remove the old 1 and install the new 1 as a unit. the sick out has to be the same. Good part # 1970 ford E 300 bellcrank housing This is the washed out bushing
Oddly enough the steering box has no play, however the 3 bolts are rotted down to nothing and the frame rail is rotted on the outside around the mounting holes. I will post more picks.
These bolts are 5" I will sandblast inside as much as I can then epoxy. the round hole is for the box adjuster nut. I will not put it in. If you blow this up until the bottom measures 12 5/8" and trace onto paper. Bend your right angle flanges 1" and weld in 3/8 plug welds to frame. I will use 3/16 plate to stiffen up this area, will be bullet proof. egcellent.
Because the plate is on the outside of the rail it does not change the position of the box at all. If you were to add thickness to the inside rail where the box is mounted then it would.. The reason it rots in the first place is it is a enclosed boxed section with no drain hole. Salt water sits in there and causes corrosion. I will drill two 1/2 holes top and bottom in a position that can be accessed with pressure washer to keep clean, Pump lots of tranny fluid in there couple times of the year also, the oil creeps onto all surfaces and moisturizes the metal. I do this for door bottoms, rockers, wheel wells, a pillars. drip rails. any enclosed section. saves the metal forever..
This is the new bushing installed. I had to use an air hack saw to score the old sleeve to get it out. Notice the stickout of the sleeve , make sure when you press in the new bushing to leave the same as original. It was a hard push to get it down, thought I would break the housing. The plate is challenging to get to fit just right, keep tweaking it. Once I get the holes lined up I will put another layer for the bolts to be real stiff.
Rare parts makes most of the front end parts for mids including the idler bushing/pin. I figure that nos bushings will crumble like the originals before long. I purchased a chunk of manganese bronze to make a bushing at one point but just ended up getting a new replacement.
did you install that one deep enough? I feel like mine are in a bit more, possibly stick out equal on the ends. I suppose if you have enough taper to seat it should be fine.
I just installed it as it was originally. Or was it changed once and was wrong. Did it slide down from wear? I have been wondering about it; what is the rational for not being in all the way? Does anyone have a tec manual that states the stick out or should it be flush. If it is in all the way then the drag link may be indeed more level and not lead to wear so fast? Maybe some of the old timers can chime in on this 1.
Why did you not send it all the way in? What was your rational for that? Thanks
I just installed it as it was originally. Or was it changed once and was wrong. Did it slide down from wear? I have been wondering about it; what is the rational for not being in all the way? Does anyone have a tec manual that states the stick out or should it be flush. If it is in all the way then the drag link may be indeed more level and not lead to wear so fast? Maybe some of the old timers can chime in on this 1.
Why did you not send it all the way in? What was your rational for that? Thanks
I have 3 mids and they look to be about centered. I have not found any tech info on it. I have the f series manuals which includes econos but I do not recall finding any specs on it.
edit: sorry, probably remembering it wrong. Found one pic I have handy, pressed passed .100 or so.
Do you think that position is factory? I was looking underneath and I was wrong about the drag link position with the height of the bushing. It is the other way, the father in the bushing, the more level the drag link will be to the steering box. That makes me think of where the torque will be on the housing. You would think that the lower the bushing in the housing the more holding power it will have at the top. and the bottom would be venerable. But why did they make it an inch longer than the housing? Is there something missing between housing and the collar of the bushing? What is the nut on the end for? Just as backup to loosen the castle nut?
It is a mystery so far, we will figure it out, somebody knows out there.