Blowing Coolant
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4wd Low
Joined: Jul 2011
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Blowing Coolant
I've blown several head gaskets in the past but this time I'm a little stumped. Before when I've blown head gaskets the inner drivers side fender well is usually soaked. This time it is only blowing out the cap and has been for about 2 years. It hasn't gotten worse just the same every time. Could my reservoir be warped or is it gaskets again.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 983
Likes: 366
Considering the 6.0's reputation for head gasket failures (and cracked heads for that matter), I'd start by testing the coolant system for combustion gasses. Its a simple and relatively cheap way to confirm if you have a blown head gasket/ cracked head or just a bad cap/ annoying coolant leak. Test kits are available everywhere, a link to one on Amazon is below or just google combustion gas leak detector
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MUST GO FASTER!!!!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 356
From: Arizona
I see major engine work in your future, when you do it, only use the upgraded parts intended for bulletproofing or else you are only putting tape over the problem, factory studs, gaskets, and countless other items are not up to task, and break/wear out quickly, this is why many including myself call it the 6.OH NO.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 983
Likes: 366
The 6.0 can be made reliable, but it takes a lot time, effort, and money to do so. And they are not tolerant of neglect at all.
When they're running right they're freaking awesome, they're smooth, relatively quiet, good power with a nice linear power delivery, quick to spool, just a pleasure to drive and tow with. The downside is its hard to keep them running at all much less running right all the time. They're overly complicated for no reason with multiple systems being interdependent such that a failure in one renders others inoperative and sometimes causes significant damage. This overcomplexity is why they don't tolerate neglect very well, every individual system has to be in top shape for the engine to maintain basic functionality.
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When they're running right they're freaking awesome, they're smooth, relatively quiet, good power with a nice linear power delivery, quick to spool, just a pleasure to drive and tow with. The downside is its hard to keep them running at all much less running right all the time. They're overly complicated for no reason with multiple systems being interdependent such that a failure in one renders others inoperative and sometimes causes significant damage. This overcomplexity is why they don't tolerate neglect very well, every individual system has to be in top shape for the engine to maintain basic functionality.
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Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
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From: Western AR
Not only do they not tolerate neglect, they don't tolerate aftermarket parts either.
I completely agree with Anton on the complexity opinion. Having rebuilt one recently for a customer (I don't normally take 6.uh-oh work), I'd never own one. That's not 6.0 bashing...that's just the cold, hard truth of a mechanic's experience.
I completely agree with Anton on the complexity opinion. Having rebuilt one recently for a customer (I don't normally take 6.uh-oh work), I'd never own one. That's not 6.0 bashing...that's just the cold, hard truth of a mechanic's experience.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,240
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From: Houston, Texas
If this hasn't been resolved, you can get your answer on what's causing the issue with a gauge.
Hook up a gauge between the radiator and degas bottle and go for a drive. Watch the pressures as you drive under normal, mid, and hard acceleration. If the pressure rises quickly past 16 psi, it's more than likely the EGR cooler. (An easy way to check this is to pull the EGR valve and see if it's wet.) If it rises slowly past 16 psi, it's more than likely the heads.
Having rebuilt and studded a few 6.0 vehicles, they can be made reliable by a good mechanic that knows that inside and out. The rest is up to the owner as far as maintenance. The ones I've rebuilt, I don't ever see again. When I call them, they love their 6.0 and wouldn't trade anything for it.
Other places to look are the thermostat. If it's not a Motorcraft thermostat, it may have failed partly closed. You can verify this my your engine coolant temps. If it doesn't reach 190 or exceeds it without a load, the thermostat or degas cap may be to blame.
I thought the heads were blown on my 7.3 Excursion, come to find out the cap was bad.
Hook up a gauge between the radiator and degas bottle and go for a drive. Watch the pressures as you drive under normal, mid, and hard acceleration. If the pressure rises quickly past 16 psi, it's more than likely the EGR cooler. (An easy way to check this is to pull the EGR valve and see if it's wet.) If it rises slowly past 16 psi, it's more than likely the heads.
Having rebuilt and studded a few 6.0 vehicles, they can be made reliable by a good mechanic that knows that inside and out. The rest is up to the owner as far as maintenance. The ones I've rebuilt, I don't ever see again. When I call them, they love their 6.0 and wouldn't trade anything for it.
Other places to look are the thermostat. If it's not a Motorcraft thermostat, it may have failed partly closed. You can verify this my your engine coolant temps. If it doesn't reach 190 or exceeds it without a load, the thermostat or degas cap may be to blame.
I thought the heads were blown on my 7.3 Excursion, come to find out the cap was bad.
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