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1996 club wagon with a 4.9 and auto transmission 105,000 miles. When I turn the key to the on position I can hear the fuel pump come on and I do see the CEL on the dash. The only clue that it gives me that it’s not going to start is the gas gage goes way past full. And it’s a crank no start situation.
this problem has been getting steadily worse over time. It started out happening very rarely and if I would let it set like 20 minutes it would start just fine. I did ask for some advice on this forum and I got a good answer. They suggested checking the battery ground to the body. I did that and the ground was indeed kind of jenky, I replaced the ground and cleaned up the attachment points and it seamed to work. Started first time every time after that. Until it didn’t, now it won’t start at all. Now I have a great opportunity to finally fix this weird electrical problem since it’s not intermittent any more.
The van is all stock, it has had some electrical issues in the past. One issue was a pin fitment problem with the ignition control module and while I was trying to diagnose that problem it kept telling me the PIP was bad and needed to be replaced.
Both battery cables have been replaced with home build ones they are not factory but they do look good. I’m talking crimped ring terminals not clamped bare wires to a battery terminal.
I did replace all the bulbs in the instrument cluster with LED bulbs.
Me and my wife love this van and we only use it to go camping but this problem is driving me nuts any help from the forum would be greatly appreciated.
Well I just checked and it started. The CEL (MIL) did go out when I cranked but like I said It did start this time. The next time it does it’s crank no start I’ll look and see if the light goes out.
Well I just checked and it started. The CEL (MIL) did go out when I cranked but like I said It did start this time. The next time it does it’s crank no start I’ll look and see if the light goes out.
play with gas tank switch if you have it, the pegging past full sounds like maybe something there. Did you check your fuses, relays?
And did you consider at any point using a scan tool
Also LED bulbs in ALL the positions on the dash????
Pegging past full means an open circuit from the fuel gauge all the way to the ground point at the radiator support.
The fuel pump(s) will not run also if no ground at the radiator support.
I do have a fuel switch. It’s a gas and a natural gas system. I’ve never used the natural gas in the van. I only changed the LED’s used to light the dash it self. I didn’t change the check engine lights or any of that stuff
This is the ground that I replaced with a new wire and cleaned up the contact points. This is also the ground that I was originally told to check. And it did work for a while I had no problems with starting at all.
Last edited by red5standingby; Sep 11, 2022 at 09:38 AM.
Reason: Add photo
Well I think I found the problem. Thanks everybody for all the help, I really appreciate you guys taking time out of your day to help me with my problem .
This is the ground that I replaced with a new wire and cleaned up the contact points. This is also the ground that I was originally told to check. And it did work for a while I had no problems with starting at all.
That probably wasn't your problem. If the wire connection is good enough to transfer 300 amps of starting power, its good enough to to provide 3 amps for the computer and ignition system.
I Imagine you have a failing ICM or similar component that's causing the problem.
Well I have to tell the truth, a long time ago I had a problem with the starter and I looked at the connections at the starter and noticed the negative cable had damage. The insulation for the last 6” was melted and the cable itself was full of corrosion. This was a few years ago and I had forgotten about it. I did change the cable but the original cable disappeared into the wiring loom right next to the battery and I just ran a new cable from the battery to the starter and I left the end alone and it was just laying there. Well when I had the battery out I hooked up the wrong negative cable. So I think all these problems I’m having are all my own fault. The only negative cable was the little one going to the body right from the battery
That probably wasn't your problem. If the wire connection is good enough to transfer 300 amps of starting power, its good enough to to provide 3 amps for the computer and ignition system.
I Imagine you have a failing ICM or similar component that's causing the problem.
I tested the icm with this video I found on YouTube http:\\youtu.be\amP-rNlcqTc As per the test I had a faulty computer. I ordered one on eBay and the van starts now. Thanks for all your advice.
