Elevated Oil and Coolant Temperatures
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 142
Likes: 14
Elevated Oil and Coolant Temperatures
Ok, so long story short, I put new KDD heads, thermostat, radiator, oil cooler, etc.
Truck runs perfect except the coolant and oil temperatures are elevated now, about 204 coolant and 208 oil average, obviously running hotter than it should.
My question is what could be causing it, fully stuck or partially stuck thermostat, bad aftermarket radiator, fan clutch, etc?
Also, how would I go about testing and diagnosing the problem?
Info I can give as of now, the oil and coolant temperature averages above are flat at 65 mph, fan clutch I believe is working as I can see with forscan it climbing while in city traffic to compensate for the ac being on, and even on the interstate it the fan rpm’s when commanded fully on will basically match the engine rpm so I don’t believe the fan is the culprit, the radiator is an aluminum radiator from Amazon that had good reviews no more to say on it, the thermostat I am betting on, I have had multiple new ford thermostats come bad oem more than once. Also, heads are not leaking even after a wot test uphill while monitoring Egt, have been driving for 500+ miles.
Also, at an idle it will go down to a normal temperature 192 coolant and oil temp.
Any help is appreciated.
Truck runs perfect except the coolant and oil temperatures are elevated now, about 204 coolant and 208 oil average, obviously running hotter than it should.
My question is what could be causing it, fully stuck or partially stuck thermostat, bad aftermarket radiator, fan clutch, etc?
Also, how would I go about testing and diagnosing the problem?
Info I can give as of now, the oil and coolant temperature averages above are flat at 65 mph, fan clutch I believe is working as I can see with forscan it climbing while in city traffic to compensate for the ac being on, and even on the interstate it the fan rpm’s when commanded fully on will basically match the engine rpm so I don’t believe the fan is the culprit, the radiator is an aluminum radiator from Amazon that had good reviews no more to say on it, the thermostat I am betting on, I have had multiple new ford thermostats come bad oem more than once. Also, heads are not leaking even after a wot test uphill while monitoring Egt, have been driving for 500+ miles.
Also, at an idle it will go down to a normal temperature 192 coolant and oil temp.
Any help is appreciated.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
You do have unique problems. I've never had to change a Ford thermostat because it failed (6.0 205k; Lincoln LS 165k, Edge 136k).
In your situation you can only A-B parts. Try a new thermostat (except from Mishimoto) and see if it changes.
I try to always get an OE assembly line radiators. I've never found aftermarket ones that cool as well.
In your situation you can only A-B parts. Try a new thermostat (except from Mishimoto) and see if it changes.
I try to always get an OE assembly line radiators. I've never found aftermarket ones that cool as well.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 295
From: Fresno, CA
What kdd heads are you running? Iron or aluminum?
What is your ambient air temp during these runs?
have you cleaned the stack up recently? Intercooler and AC condenser. They can get plugged up and restrict airflow to the radiator.
I would guess thermostat or a radiator with reduced surface area. Most of the aftermarket stuff I’ve seen has a lot less fins per inch than the stock one.
On my truck running down the highway when it’s over 100 outside with the AC running I can see the ECT creep up to 200. That’s a brand new stock radiator and thermostat.
What is your ambient air temp during these runs?
have you cleaned the stack up recently? Intercooler and AC condenser. They can get plugged up and restrict airflow to the radiator.
I would guess thermostat or a radiator with reduced surface area. Most of the aftermarket stuff I’ve seen has a lot less fins per inch than the stock one.
On my truck running down the highway when it’s over 100 outside with the AC running I can see the ECT creep up to 200. That’s a brand new stock radiator and thermostat.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 142
Likes: 14
You do have unique problems. I've never had to change a Ford thermostat because it failed (6.0 205k; Lincoln LS 165k, Edge 136k).
In your situation you can only A-B parts. Try a new thermostat (except from Mishimoto) and see if it changes.
I try to always get an OE assembly line radiators. I've never found aftermarket ones that cool as well.
In your situation you can only A-B parts. Try a new thermostat (except from Mishimoto) and see if it changes.
I try to always get an OE assembly line radiators. I've never found aftermarket ones that cool as well.
What kdd heads are you running? Iron or aluminum?
What is your ambient air temp during these runs?
have you cleaned the stack up recently? Intercooler and AC condenser. They can get plugged up and restrict airflow to the radiator.
I would guess thermostat or a radiator with reduced surface area. Most of the aftermarket stuff I’ve seen has a lot less fins per inch than the stock one.
On my truck running down the highway when it’s over 100 outside with the AC running I can see the ECT creep up to 200. That’s a brand new stock radiator and thermostat.
What is your ambient air temp during these runs?
have you cleaned the stack up recently? Intercooler and AC condenser. They can get plugged up and restrict airflow to the radiator.
I would guess thermostat or a radiator with reduced surface area. Most of the aftermarket stuff I’ve seen has a lot less fins per inch than the stock one.
On my truck running down the highway when it’s over 100 outside with the AC running I can see the ECT creep up to 200. That’s a brand new stock radiator and thermostat.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 295
From: Fresno, CA
I would be concerned when you are towing heavy loads you might get excessively high ECTs and corresponding EOT's. Definitely watch it if you do.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 230
From: Amarillo, TX
I have an aftermarket aluminum radiator on mine & the hottest it ever gets just cruising down the highway is 198 on a blistering summer day Usually ran 204-208 towing the 5th wheel.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 478
Likes: 194
It has been noted that the stock 6.0 radiator has more channels than almost all the aftermarket radiators. It’s a pretty efficient piece, some have slightly thicker cores. I would do a thermostat first and foremost cause it’s easy. Some folks have reported slightly higher running temperatures with the newer heads because they are thicker castings in some areas and they can limit some heat transfer. 200ECT is fine. 205ect wouldn’t really bother me either.
mine runs around 194-198f ect going down the highway at 75 with Ac on in ambient temps of 80-100F. It’ll hit 200-202 at a standstill like a traffic jam
mine runs around 194-198f ect going down the highway at 75 with Ac on in ambient temps of 80-100F. It’ll hit 200-202 at a standstill like a traffic jam
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