New engine
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 193
Likes: 5
Do you have a good handle on everything you need to do and buy when swapping from a 335 to a 385 engine? There's several good threads here. Check out members, Doosenberry, and Lafermedavid. They've done the swap. My 502 is built and tested, and I have all the swap parts. Haven't installed it yet, since my 400 is running well and gas prices are stupid. Member 77&79F250 "Rich" is a good source for stuff too.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 193
Likes: 5
You can pull a valve cover or the distributor and see if it's a roller or not. if it's a shiny cam and or the distributor gear is bronze or hard steel it's probably a roller. if it's that old odds are it's not, rollers have been around for years but few people used them back then.
Do you have roller rockers ? do you know the compression ratio? you might be burning race fuel. my guess is the cam card got lost for a reason. I would measure the lift you don't want a drag strip engine in a 4x4.
If it were me this is what I would do. pull the valve covers and see that you have. if it's a flat tappet you have 2 choices, if you have stout springs and you probably do change them out for break in then swap them back.
Or the best option. hopefully knowing the compression I'd order a custom spec roller cam and change it now. have a better running engine with no drama and no surprises. it'll run you about a grand. well maybe a little more today it's been a year or so since I bought a roller cam and lifters. you would not regret it. keep in mind if the cam gets wiped the whole engine has to be gone through.
Do you have roller rockers ? do you know the compression ratio? you might be burning race fuel. my guess is the cam card got lost for a reason. I would measure the lift you don't want a drag strip engine in a 4x4.
If it were me this is what I would do. pull the valve covers and see that you have. if it's a flat tappet you have 2 choices, if you have stout springs and you probably do change them out for break in then swap them back.
Or the best option. hopefully knowing the compression I'd order a custom spec roller cam and change it now. have a better running engine with no drama and no surprises. it'll run you about a grand. well maybe a little more today it's been a year or so since I bought a roller cam and lifters. you would not regret it. keep in mind if the cam gets wiped the whole engine has to be gone through.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 193
Likes: 5
I pulled the spark plugs and looked into the cylinders with a bore scope. I found dead bugs in one if them.
I was also able to see that it had 0.030" over domed pistons which meant 10.5:1 compression. The cylinder walls looked great.
I also checked the bearing clearance on one rod and one main bearing. Rods and mains were 0.010 under.
Then I rotated the crank until I found the 1U stamp that verified that it was a 428 crankshaft.
When it was in the truck and ready to start the spark plus were still out of the engine so I just cranked it over until I was satisfied that the oil had gone thru ever oil passage and into the lifters.
Started right up with no clatter at all and it runs great.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 193
Likes: 5
I used Lucas break in oil with my Melling cam and no name lifters and springs without issue. I did have the benefit of the carb being properly set before disassembly and the fact that it wasn’t my first rodeo. It’s my understanding that high rate springs may be some or all of the issue with cam and tappet damage. Or I could be wrong.
if you are still concerned, you can check out Cam-King | Cam Reseach ? Custom Ford Camshafts They will break in your lifters and cam on their machine for $60
Michael
if you are still concerned, you can check out Cam-King | Cam Reseach ? Custom Ford Camshafts They will break in your lifters and cam on their machine for $60
Michael
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,789
Likes: 3,401
From: South Central Utah
I appreciate you replying to everyone's comments.
I hope things go your way 110%.
Sounds like its going to be a monster.
The bore scope I used belonged to a friend. He bought it at Harbor Freight a few years back for around $225, I'm sure they have gone up.
I was happy with everything I saw inside the cylinders and it saved me from having to remove the heads.
My only concern is that having been rebuilt 50 years ago it doesn't have hardened valves or seats so I have been adding a lead substitute.
The first tank or two of gas I was adding 5 gallons of 110 octane low lead racing fuel. But at $9.50/gallon that got old fast. LOL
I hope things go your way 110%.
Sounds like its going to be a monster.
The bore scope I used belonged to a friend. He bought it at Harbor Freight a few years back for around $225, I'm sure they have gone up.
I was happy with everything I saw inside the cylinders and it saved me from having to remove the heads.
My only concern is that having been rebuilt 50 years ago it doesn't have hardened valves or seats so I have been adding a lead substitute.
The first tank or two of gas I was adding 5 gallons of 110 octane low lead racing fuel. But at $9.50/gallon that got old fast. LOL
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 193
Likes: 5
Here are a couple of pictures with what I am working with. Again…world renown idiot but thought I would possibly post some pics as I go along and figure it out. I will continue this thread for others as I haven’t ever been shown how to do it….maybe it will help. Happy to send whatever ever off the 400 (you will have to pay for shipping) and you see something you need
….it’s yours. One question I have, I purchased a oil canister thing for pre oiling. I read it’s behind the oil filter but don’t see a place. Where do I connect it? I’m the only guy working on this so keep that I mind
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,892
Likes: 2,370
From the looks of it you may have a roller cam, I'd find out. and you might be buying race fuel in the barrel too.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: South Central Utah
So if that's what I had to run in my truck it would cost me $198 to fill my tank.
Or about $1.10 per mile.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,789
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From: South Central Utah
Mine needs valve stem seals but being rebuilt 50 years ago that doesn't bother me at all. It runs great.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 874
Likes: 56
From: Merlin, OR
Coolant
I'm this close to doing my initial startup of my freshly rebuilt 400, and wondering why you don't want any coolant in the engine on break in? Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,892
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Several reasons, foremost antifreeze is a bearing killer . while an internal leak isn't going to destroy the bearings in 20 minutes why chance it. and if you have a leak anywhere who needs sticky antifreeze to deal with, pure water isn't a mess. and I like to dump the oily crappy water after a rebuild and replace it with fresh water anyway. then add the antifreeze.
As long as it's not going to freeze hard I've run pure water for a while before I drain it and add the Prestone.
As long as it's not going to freeze hard I've run pure water for a while before I drain it and add the Prestone.