When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
New to this but own a 96 F250 XL 7.5l 2WD and am having some starting issues and lack of power. I have changed plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and the fuel filter but am still having issues. When starting, she struggles for about 5 sec and then I pause give it another crank and another 5-7 secs she starts but hesitates. I'm leaning towards poor injectors but want to get others' opinions before I drop more money on this beast. I am also thinking that the timing may be off and will be setting it to 10 BTDC. If anybody has had this same issue, please let me know.
I have not checked my fuel pressure yet. Was going to try and get that checked this weekend if I can. Was also going to try an pull the fuel rail to check for leaking injectors
So I’ve got an OBD1 reader and the only code that she has thrown is for my EGR valve but I’ve got a block off plate. I believe that code is 327
Ok, so I have replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, both fuel pumps, fuel filter and starter. Still having the starting issue. In the the meantime of looking for this issue I have also replaced my water pump, timing chain (had the timing set to 10 BTDC), the thermostat, thermostat housing and hose. Have no idea where to look next. Fuel pressure regulator and injectors are good.
What were the fuel pressure values? Did you test the fuel pressure while the engine was under-load, aka power-braking or accelerating?
There are 3 test-points you're looking for.
1. At idle... Should be 30-45 psi
2. At idle with the the FPR vacuum line disconnected..
Should be 5-10 psi higher than with it connected.
3. 5-second power-braking or accelerating with FPR connected. Should be exactly the same as the 2nd test and holding steady.
What were the fuel pressure values? Did you test the fuel pressure while the engine was under-load, aka power-braking or accelerating?
There are 3 test-points you're looking for.
1. At idle... Should be 30-45 psi
2. At idle with the the FPR vacuum line disconnected..
Should be 5-10 psi higher than with it connected.
3. 5-second power-braking or accelerating with FPR connected. Should be exactly the same as the 2nd test and holding steady.
I believe the psi was somewhere in the 40s. Not sure about the results for FPR vacuum line disconnect.
Is the low voltage EGR code active, stored or engine running? Do you have the EGR sensor plugged in?
When timing was set I am not sure if the SPOUT was removed. I was not there when my mechanic did that. I did not have the time to do the repair myself so had my mechanic take care of that for me. EGR is a stored code. There is a block off plate for that and it is not plugged in.
Just because the pumps are new doesn't mean they're working correctly. A fuel pressure gauge is free to borrow from the big auto parts stores. Why not test the pumps out and eliminate fuel pressure from your diagnostic list, then you can focus on something else. If you wanna save yourself the time and hassle of testing components, buy OEM motorcraft parts. And even then, you should test out the system; you may have a crushed fuel line that's restricting fuel flow.
Exhibit A)
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
