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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

General identification…

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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 06:57 AM
  #31  
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Reading between the lines, the diagram below alludes to one canister with two tanks. You can see the tee fitting and the 3 -way valve. I also suppose the rear tank was never by itself unless it was in a Bronco, it was always in a dual tank system on the pickup if you had a rear tank.



 
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 08:33 AM
  #32  
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Thanks Franklin, it is cool looking at the blow up diagrams… that is what mine looks like… the little T with a 2” piece of flex line on each leg going back to hard lines the rest of the way.

The canister couldn’t have been “under” the battery from what I can tell, there is no gap on my truck… that would put the canister above the wheel in the wheel well where it would get rubbed under heavy loading. It had to be somewhere in the engine bay I would assume.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 10:27 AM
  #33  
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Look at the under hood sticker it will show the canister(s) and it will also say the 2nd one is with dual tanks.

Yes the rear tank vent line dose run down the right side rail to think just under the right door where it Tees (mine is a Y) into the vent line from the side tank.
This vent line dose run down the left side rail to the rear cab cross member were it crosses over to the right side.
You may find this metal line rusted as it sits in the channel and dirt & water dose it's number on it.
After the Tee / Y it is a single metal line to the canister(s) where the 2 canisters are joined with a rubber hose but only 1 of them is hooked to the motor with a rubber hose but being they are joined vapor is pulled from both.

and the Y


Dave ----
 
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 02:05 PM
  #34  
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Awesome, thanks dave.. this making a bit more sense now that I see it… in your picture the red goes from the little vent line to the top canister, the blue line goes to the second lower canister from the top one, and the yellow goes from the top canister to the engine somewhere?


as seen in my picture from the same angle based off the alternator.. I have none of the above 😂.


… and while writing this I just had a guy stop by asking if I want to sell it… his first truck was an 82 and he can’t find one anywhere… 🤔
 
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 02:24 PM
  #35  
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I see a flat area with 3 holes where it probably mounted.

 
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 05:00 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by TXwingnutt
Awesome, thanks dave.. this making a bit more sense now that I see it… in your picture the red goes from the little vent line to the top canister, the blue line goes to the second lower canister from the top one, and the yellow goes from the top canister to the engine somewhere?


as seen in my picture from the same angle based off the alternator.. I have none of the above 😂.


… and while writing this I just had a guy stop by asking if I want to sell it… his first truck was an 82 and he can’t find one anywhere… 🤔
Yes you have the lines right the yellow has the carb bowl vent teed in before the purge control valve that then get vacuum from the motor.
On my 300 it is off the PCV as it has a smaller 2nd port for this.
Here is the sticker how it should get plumbed and you can see the canister for the dual tanks.

I also see that the hose between the 2 canisters looks to be pulled out of the bottom canister
Dave ----
 
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 10:05 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
That tin can sometimes called a juice can is a vacuum reservoir for the HVAC system.
I take it you have AC?
That tin can likes to rust out and cause vacuum leak.
Dave ----
Today I was doing some general cleaning and troubleshooting under the hood… and I decided to check the “juice can” since dave said they rust and cause vacuum leaks…


the little bracket was a bear to get off, the tiny tabs are hard to grab with needle nose… an of course, holes were right along the bottom where Dave said they would be.

so I dug around the garage and found a metal item of similar shape and quality… almost a perfect fit!



 
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Old Aug 28, 2022 | 06:25 AM
  #38  
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That will work as long as it will hold vacuum.
How did you get the hose to stay on or is that for looks / joke

Junk yard hunting the plastic ones will work.
Dave ----
 
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Old Aug 28, 2022 | 04:43 PM
  #39  
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I will be surprised if the sides on that pop can don't collapse. If you are having trouble finding something to work, you probably could patch the old one with thin metal and some screws or pop rivets and rtv to seal it. Seal-All is good stuff also.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2022 | 09:56 PM
  #40  
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Sorry guys, that was a joke… the metal on the bottom was so thin from the rust all I could think about was a beer can… so I posted that to add a little humor to the thread 😂

JB weld also makes a putty stick called Metal weld, (just like the Plastic weld I used for the bezel and dash repair). I made a blob of that to put over the rusty holes and the lip edges, then painted it a fancy metallic silver… it’s a beat up old can so why not make it look like a fancy beat up can 😬



 
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Old Aug 28, 2022 | 10:01 PM
  #41  
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Side note on using the JB weld sticks, they are great for building up something, but a bit of trick trying to fill a hole. When you blob it over a hole, you have to be careful not to press hard over the hole or the putty just swishes through and your right where you started.

For the “Juice can” I actually ended up using a little piece of painters tape over the hole and then just spread the putty over all of it to create basically a rock hard skin over the whole area.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2022 | 08:09 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by TXwingnutt
JB weld also makes a putty stick called Metal weld, (just like the Plastic weld I used for the bezel and dash repair). I made a blob of that to put over the rusty holes and the lip edges, then painted it a fancy metallic silver… it’s a beat up old can so why not make it look like a fancy beat up can
I wouldn't trust any repairs on a rusty vacuum canister. I'd suggest upgrading to the plastic cannonball style reservoir:



Dorman makes several versions. I'm sure we could figure out which model you'd need. Cheap, too, all under $20.

 
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Old Aug 30, 2022 | 08:45 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
I wouldn't trust any repairs on a rusty vacuum canister. I'd suggest upgrading to the plastic cannonball style reservoir:



Dorman makes several versions. I'm sure we could figure out which model you'd need. Cheap, too, all under $20.
Mine is still holding up after the fix but mine was not as bad as his or I would have replaced it.
Dave ----
 
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Old Aug 31, 2022 | 05:17 PM
  #44  
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I have a Ford OE metal vacuum reservoir can in good shape you can have for a few dollars shipping. Just PM me if you want it.
.
Also, I was looking at your vac hose routing in the pic. Does the black line (with the blue arrow above it) go to the plastic vacuum reservoir mounted on the condenser housing? The vac line in the yellow rectangle box comes from the manifold vacuum source, correct? Anyways, if that black plastic line also goes to a vacuum reservoir also, it would seem something may need to be re-routed to serve its intended purpose. Not saying its wrong - just trying to be helpful.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2022 | 06:03 PM
  #45  
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That black plastic line is the supply inside the cab to the HVAC control.
The 3 lines connected to a 1 way check valve. It should pull a vacuum on the can & HVAC control but when the motor is under load and is calling for vacuum it should close so the HVAC keeps working as it should unlike mine that goes to defrost when on AC
Dave ----
 
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