When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
very well could have, or it could have blown the fusible link that runs electronics.
easy way to tell. unplug radio and probe for power with test light. if you have power, very good chance radio is toasted.
i think the issue with your shifter is the piece of the ignition actuator you cut off. the old broken piece is still in the column preventing the shifter from working.
the sloppy steering could be a few things, but first thing i would check is the bushing between upper and lower column.
with engine off, have a helper rock steering wheel side to side while you are in the engine bay looking at the connection where the two shafts meet. there is a teflon bushing in the upper column that hold the lower tight. if the spring steel clip breaks the bushing will slide off the lower shaft giving you around 1/4 turn play in the steering wheel.
as for the trans not shifting, my bet is the modulator valve on the C-6 trans is bad. no vacuum going to the modulator or a bad modulator and the trans will not shift.
hopefully it is not a bad vacuum regulator valve, because they are currently made out of unicorn fur.
It’s been a minute and all is well. As a Christmas gift to myself I decided to buy new headlights with the plan of switching to led. I’ve heard of led not working well on vintage electronics but I haven’t run into any issues until now. At the moment only my marker lights are led and pass side works but drv side won’t blink. Going to try flipping the light itself around tomorrow when it’s warmer. These headlights also have halo’s that I’d like to connect to the turn signals and have them flash. In order to do this I need to know which wires in the marker light do what do I can splice in
Thanks for that diagram. As soon as the weather clears up I’ll be taking care of that. Today a few things came up that had me concerned. First of all the ticking from a supposed exhaust leak has gotten louder, secondly the first belt on my alternator jumps around while the engines running and even pulls on my alternator. When I open the hood I can see it jiggling (the other belt on the alt is tight as can be). Thirdly, when one of my tanks ran dry the truck started to stall so I switched tanks and revved the engine. Got to the next light right after and it started shaking and sputtering again. Had to throw it in park and rev it at 1200 until I could go.
Now when I got my brakes done the shop said either my booster or my vacuum pump is failing and with this fuel delivery mishap I’m starting to believe it is the pump. The truck has also had a harder and harder time starting up in the mornings around 30F
It’s been a while since I’ve been on here and all is well. Installed a 12k winch and a transfer tank, rebuilt the transmission with a few upgrades, and am getting ready to install my gear vendor OD. On top of that I have gauges for oil/trans/coolant temps and oil pressure on the way. Today my interest is purely on the gear vendor. Specifically, how much driveshaft gets cut off? I read the manual but couldn’t find any number for that and Google isn’t much help right now either. I will measure myself once I’ve got the gear vendor on to make sure. A friend of mine also suggested I pick n pull a driveshaft to have cut so I don’t have to park my truck for a few days
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.