When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do not know about that fluid, never even seen it. The trucks components were designed to use Mercon ATF. Mercon AFT is no longer made and was replaced with Mercon V. You have more in the system than just the pump, you have the steering box and also the hydro boost system. Incorrect fluids could be part of the issue.
Often terms are used incorrectly. How much of a high output alternator?
A high output alternator is still going to put out about 14 or so volts, it is the amperage that changes. Now, Amperage being upped may or may not hurt other items in the system such a glow plugs. Have you protected the remaining parts of the system by upgrading the wiring and fuses in the charging system as well as a glow plug isolation switch?
Even at idle your truck should be putting out about 14 volts, if not check all connections starting at the batteries and going to all grounds on the engine block, frame, fender, dash etc.... Wires need to be clean, not green-ish, tight, not burnt. Voltage should match at each battery truck running and off, if not your crossover is likely part of the voltage issue.
Remember... Resting voltage after a few hours should be 12.6 volts at each battery and match, if not find the issue.
Just wanted to give and update related to my low voltage issue. I checked all the grounds and have no less than .3 voltage drop, all cables and terminals are good. So I reviewed my order on my alternator I did a few months ago and it stated it's for a 7.3 Ford F series truck. Though on the spec sheet I noticed it said 12volts. I'm not too great with electrical or mechanical inclined so I figured it was for a 12 volt system. I was incorrect, it produces 12volts... So I was able to return the alternator for credit on the new correct one. I installed it and and now everything is working as it should... 14.0-14.3 volts at idle with a load. So I'm happy that's been corrected... I still have no steering while stopped though. Off to more research and diagnostics!
If the pump is squalling when turning the wheel then it's either not getting sufficient fluid at the inlet or there's air in the system. When you look in the reservoir while idling do you notice any bubbles mixed in w/ the fluid? Does it maintain a good fluid level when the brakes are applied or wheel turned? Another thought just occurred to me, if the bypass circuit in the hydro booster malfunctioned and continually ran fluid back to the reservoir instead of allowing it to go to the steering gear, it wouldn't get enough flow to work properly. Unless the brake is applied there shouldn't be any fluid coming from the return port of the booster. Everything is supposed to run right through and down to the gear.