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Hello everyone,
I've searched though a ton of posts with many members having the same issues though I have replaced what I think could be causing this issue. I have no steering what so ever when I am stopped.
Parts replaced to:
- Red Top Gear Box
- Saginaw Power Steering Pump (Twice Due to 1st pump being defective)
- OEM Hydro Boost pump
- Moog Ball Joints / Complete Moog front end kit.
- Borgeson Lower Steering Shaft
A little history on the truck: Its a 2001 Ford 7.3 F250 I bought the truck from my wife's cousin which he mainly used it to tow his 5th wheel around. He purchase the truck completely stock from the original owner. Right now the truck has a 4inch lift with 35s which he installed. Though he told me that the truck had the same steering problem it has now even when it was at stock height with stock wheels. I'm completely stumped over this issue! Can anyone here please help me out with any ideas or have ran into this issue before.
When I turn the wheel it feels like it binds up and the pump starts screaming at me almost like when its at full lock. The second I start moving I have steering back. I was told that these trucks have this issues and that's just how they are. At first I refuse to believe that but now after throwing money at it and replacing all these parts and still nothing... I may just have to live with it.
A couple thoughts.
What fluid are you using in the power steering system? Is the fluid at the proper level?
Is the fluid foamy or does it have bubbles in it while running?
Have you checked all pulleys for freedom of moment without the belt on, what is the Idle pulley condition?
Are you absolutely positive the hoses are routed properly? Really sure?
Put a USB volt meter in the cigar outlet and watch the voltage while driving and at idle. If the belt or the pulleys are binding up a bit the voltage will drop off a bit from about 14 volts.
If something is squealing, something is binding.
Thanks for the welcome!
I'm using the recommended fluid from Power Lee Steering. "POWER STEERING FLUID GALLON - TOM LEE'S ORIGINAL FORMULA"
The fluid level it where they recommend it to be and there are no bubbles or foamy while running. I blead the system for almost 45 mins till my arms couldn't take it anymore.
I haven't checked my Idle pulley yet though now that you mentioned my voltage is a lot lower than it should be. I replaced the alternator with a high output one. (I have some music in the truck as well) Also put 2 new motor craft batteries. At idle the truck is sitting at 12.8 when I turn the AC on it drops to 12.4 while driving I'm getting 13.9-14.1
I will remove the belt tomorrow morning and check on that idle pulley!
About the hoses routed properly, I can triple check it as well. though I'm leaning towards that pully being a issue. Due to I replaced everything else. lol
I really appreciate your input and feed back!
Who recommended the power steering fluid? Our trucks normally use ATF. Not sure if that power steering fluid is going to play well with the hydro boost.
I usually don't even try to turn my wheel until moving and I'm running stock height and 285 tires. Will try it tomorrow just to see how it feels but can tell you my new blue top box is stiffer at low speeds than my worn out stock box was.
Do not know about that fluid, never even seen it. The trucks components were designed to use Mercon ATF. Mercon AFT is no longer made and was replaced with Mercon V. You have more in the system than just the pump, you have the steering box and also the hydro boost system. Incorrect fluids could be part of the issue.
Often terms are used incorrectly. How much of a high output alternator?
A high output alternator is still going to put out about 14 or so volts, it is the amperage that changes. Now, Amperage being upped may or may not hurt other items in the system such a glow plugs. Have you protected the remaining parts of the system by upgrading the wiring and fuses in the charging system as well as a glow plug isolation switch?
Even at idle your truck should be putting out about 14 volts, if not check all connections starting at the batteries and going to all grounds on the engine block, frame, fender, dash etc.... Wires need to be clean, not green-ish, tight, not burnt. Voltage should match at each battery truck running and off, if not your crossover is likely part of the voltage issue.
Remember... Resting voltage after a few hours should be 12.6 volts at each battery and match, if not find the issue.
The company Lee Power Steering recommended it due to having the Saginaw Power Steering Pump. Though before I installed this pump I had installed a new OEM power steering pump with ATF and still had the same issue. Sometimes I get into tight spots while backing up my RV so I need to make corrections and its kinda a pain when I need to move the RV back a few feet just to get myself lined up correctly, sometimes I don't even have a few feet to do that.
You did a Saginaw PS pump swap? Please tell us more about that. I know some folks here were working on this modification. @udsuth78
Looks like this is the fluid you are using. We are mostly familiar with OEM applications so ATF is normal for us. How that Lee ps fluid will work with the hydroboost is unknown. My guess is no problem but I'm just guessing.
Since the issue was present with the OEM pump I'm also in the camp of serpentine belt not driving the pulley properly. How old is the belt tensioner? What is the part number of the belt on there now?
The PS fluid is fine in the system, better in my opinion but that another discussion. You may try pulling a vacuum at the reservoir fill neck to make sure no air is still trapped somewhere in the system. I used a primer bulb from a hand pump to seal at the lid and ran a hose through it to get a vacuum on the system. It fixed the no power assist at idle I was having after my gearbox and pump swap.
You did a Saginaw PS pump swap? Please tell us more about that. I know some folks here were working on this modification. @udsuth78
Looks like this is the fluid you are using. We are mostly familiar with OEM applications so ATF is normal for us. How that Lee ps fluid will work with the hydroboost is unknown. My guess is no problem but I'm just guessing.
Since the issue was present with the OEM pump I'm also in the camp of serpentine belt not driving the pulley properly. How old is the belt tensioner? What is the part number of the belt on there now?
For the lift was a drop pitman arm needed?
That's exactly the fluid I'm using now. The system itself seems solid its kinda hard to give you somewhat of a review when I still can't steer when stopped. Though while moving I can tell, its more responsive and seems a lot easier. Not to sure how old that tensioner is though I just removed the belt and it spins perfectly fine. As for the PN on the belt I can't tell seems like the numbering has completely faded away. Here's a pic of the setup I have,
I can make my steering bind up as described if I hold the brakes on. Have to release the pedal a bit to get the steering to free up.
I'm guessing this is from a stop. I've even tested it out in neutral off the brake and still nothing. I've reved it up with the parking brake on off the brakes and still nothing.
The PS fluid is fine in the system, better in my opinion but that another discussion. You may try pulling a vacuum at the reservoir fill neck to make sure no air is still trapped somewhere in the system. I used a primer bulb from a hand pump to seal at the lid and ran a hose through it to get a vacuum on the system. It fixed the no power assist at idle I was having after my gearbox and pump swap.
I should try this out, you have the same PS system installed in your truck as well? That reservoir seems hard to seal due to the type of cap is using.
I should try this out, you have the same PS system installed in your truck as well? That reservoir seems hard to seal due to the type of cap is using.
No I retrofit a F53 pump on mine and made a reservoir out of one of those little 2.5# fire extinguishers. As for sealing at the cap, the primer bulb works pretty well but really anything that you can hold over the filler and run a hose through that seals will work. It doesn't have to hold for long, a minute at most. I suggest clear tubing also on case any liquids make it to the hose you can stop them before they get to the vacuum pump.