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Wow that sounds tragic. A battery exploding. Good thinking with the baking soda.
I haven't told the whole story, the truck has been sitting that whole 2 years, the concentric slave cylinder bit the dust and it took me and my buddy quite a while to get up the energy to change the transmission. There was always something more important. So the battery has seen very little use, though it has been charged up and maintained. The truck has only been used for the last few weeks to move firewood. In that time i have cleaned all of the ground connections in the engine bay and had to deal with the starter free spinning. I also replaced the fender solenoid with a motorcraft I found. I also added the ground from the battery to the fender. I am tempted to add another one from the engine to the frame as i am not sure the one that connects the battery to the starter is adequate. It connects near the engine mount than goes onto the starter case.
I will check the water level. Thanks for the reminder.
In regards to the engine bay temps. The fastest I ever go is 60km. I also only ever travel about 25 kilometers. The truck receives very little use. It is always short trips at low speeds. It is mostly a firewood truck.
Do you have any suggestions for awesome clamp's to attach to the battery. I have mostly used those crappy ones which need to be cleaned often in my environment. Around here people make connections out of copper pipe. Clean up a piece of copper pipe and than strip your wire and slide the wire into the pipe and than smash it with a hammer. Drill a hole for what you need and there you go.
marine brass ones on amazon, have a stud but are brass (not lead)
Also, your short trips thing means your battery is getting drawn on more often than if you had long trips. that battery may just croak on you like where you cant start, i would carry a boost pack if youre going to keep using it..
And do you have a external fan on your alternator? if you do, you may want to go up to 3g alternator so you dont have fire risk as well. 3g alt have a threaded hole on the back that you can ground them with a cable. That would be the best place to ground the engine additionally. next after that is an unused hole on the alternator bracket. Then I would say other engine brackets from there. And I would not go to the frame. the frame isnt where you want to ground to esp if your engine ground to battery is weak, you want to ground to your battery. the reason is that if you have your frame as the main ground path then it now has to rely on its various connections to the fenders/cab to ground to the battery. which is potentially worse if they are not sufficient. If you wanted to go from the frame to the fender, I think you wouldnt gain as much from that but it wouldnt hurt. But I think alternator(if you can) to battery neg is wise
So I had a hard time using the suggested bolt hole in this article. http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/alt21_2g.pdf
I am also not sure i had the right sized bolt on hand to use to mount the ground to the back of the alternator.
I needed to use a longer bolt for the alternator mounting bolt.
So end up using this bolt. This seems to be the upper bolt which holds the alternator on. gauge of wiring this was at idle. 19.1amps at 14.60V. No power draws were on.
So I had a hard time using the suggested bolt hole in this article. http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/alt21_2g.pdf
I am also not sure i had the right sized bolt on hand to use to mount the ground to the back of the alternator.
I needed to use a longer bolt for the alternator mounting bolt.
So end up using this bolt. This seems to be the upper bolt which holds the alternator on.
Looking back I think your alt bolt is not the OE.. you may want to get that, at least for nice sake. mine has a raised shoulder, bout 2 inches maybe lil less long, and has a flange type head gauge of wiring this was at idle. 19.1amps at 14.60V. No power draws were on.
See your bolt head on the alt bolt you used ? SA.E I bet the back of your alt used a SAE that matched that. The alt in mine has a metric 13mm and the threads obv metric too. the back of alt is in metric on that. but that theory.
See your bolt head on the alt bolt you used ? SA.E I bet the back of your alt used a SAE that matched that. The alt in mine has a metric 13mm and the threads obv metric too. the back of alt is in metric on that. but that theory.
Yes the OE original bolt was only about an inch long. It actually only threaded in about 3 threads. I was quite surprised. I found a nice grade 5 bolt and put that in. It fit nicely and didn't wobble in the hole. It also threaded in about 6 threads. I feel much better having the longer bolt in.
Yes the OE original bolt was only about an inch long. It actually only threaded in about 3 threads. I was quite surprised. I found a nice grade 5 bolt and put that in. It fit nicely and didn't wobble in the hole. It also threaded in about 6 threads. I feel much better having the longer bolt in.
that isnt right then because it needs to be long enough to prvide secure mounting and it should use the thick 1 inch ear mostly because that is aluminum. also you used a grade 5.. i hope the SAE equivalent doesnt have a tendancy to loosen or that the bolt you had in wasnt something that disrorted threads(if not OE)
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