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Long time lurker and have usually had success finding answers.
My 2003 Ford F350 with 5.4L won't start. No crank and no start. It won't even try to turn over. It used to do this intermittently. If I wiggled the key and shifter I could get it to start on occasions it would not turn over. I figured it was the ignition switch under the steering column. I replaced it and it started twice. Now it won't start again. Any thoughts or ideas to check would be appreciated. The battery is less than a year old. From the way it acts, I think it is electrical in the starting circuit. When I turn the key, the radio and dash lights come on and stay on in the run position. They go out when in the "start" position except for the air bag light. When it started it would run fine. I am leaning towards an issue with the ignition switch circuit.
Shift selector is very loose but moving to neutral does not help. I did replace the bushings before and checked the shift bracket bolts.
Last edited by andyrocky1; Aug 13, 2022 at 02:31 AM.
The first thing I did was try a push button remote start switch from battery to the starter solenoid. I tried it in park and in neutral. Nothing. I checked the relevant fuses they seem ok. Next is to check the starter relay and use a multimeter to see where there is power and voltage starting with the battery which was new last year. I have to take breaks now and again or else something will not go well.
The first thing I did was try a push button remote start switch from battery to the starter solenoid.
That tells me you probably have a failed starter, assuming that test was done correctly and full battery power was applied to the starter small terminal. That test bypasses EVERYTHING "upstream" from the starter as far as the signal from the ignition switch is concerned. That only leaves you with the starter, cables, and connections as suspects.
Get down under there with your meter and watch the voltage on the small terminal when an assistant turns the key to start, assuming one is available. If you read battery voltage there, everything upstream is "good". Move your meter lead to the large terminal from the battery. Should show full battery voltage. Monitor it while your assistant turns the key to START. If it drops to zero, the cable or connection to battery is bad.
So first thanks for the help. Between work and life I have been busy so I have not run the multimeter yet for voltage drop.
I thought I would add some more information. It has the 5.4 liter engine and we are in the rust belt and this truck definitely has seen its share.
Randomly the other day I tried the ignition and it started. I held it in start for a few seconds, released and then tried start again and it started. I let it run a little and shut it off. I wanted to make sure it would not strand me. Sure enough it would not restart and even a day later when cold it did not work.
Also I noticed that when I turn the key to start, the airbag light usually stays on but sometimes it dims/flickers at first before staying on. I am thinking it should go out completely when starting due to the starter draw and voltage dropping. The ground strap from the firewall to the engine looks okay. The battery is about a year old and the terminals look okay. The terminal on the starter solenoid looked crusty so I think that needs to be cleaned up. When turning the ignition to start, there is a short buzz which I suspect is the fuel pump. I also tried swapping relays within the fuse panel to see if the starter relay might be an issue. So far it has been quick attempts to see what it might be.
That tells me you probably have a failed starter, assuming that test was done correctly and full battery power was applied to the starter small terminal. That test bypasses EVERYTHING "upstream" from the starter as far as the signal from the ignition switch is concerned. That only leaves you with the starter, cables, and connections as suspects.
Get down under there with your meter and watch the voltage on the small terminal when an assistant turns the key to start, assuming one is available. If you read battery voltage there, everything upstream is "good". Move your meter lead to the large terminal from the battery. Should show full battery voltage. Monitor it while your assistant turns the key to START. If it drops to zero, the cable or connection to battery is bad.
That was something I was wondering about. Thanks for the idea to isolate the issue. I am hoping to try that today.
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