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1952 Ford F3 Build Thread

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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 04:24 PM
  #1  
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1952 Ford F3 Build Thread

Hello all,

As I start getting more questions and making more progress, I thought I would create a build thread like many of you have also done.

As background, I bought this truck in June 2021 for $4,000. After getting the truck back to my friends barn, I drained the oil, then filled the engine with diesel fuel for about 24 hours. I drained the diesel fuel, filled with oil, turned the engine over without spark plugs for about 30 seconds, replaced the oil, installed the plugs, and started the engine by pouring fuel down the carburetor.

Since then I've taken out the gas tank, cleaned with steel marbles and berryman's B12, had the carburetor rebuilt, replaced gas line, front brakes and lines, shocks, rebuilt and recovered bench seat and other odds and ends.

Below are a few pics of the truck and progress.

Pics of the hood that I used CLR-PRO and scotchbrite pads - a question to the group - do I keep trying to remove the rust to get to the blue paint or leave as is now?

Thanks,
Wes


Hood after CLR-PRO Cleaning



Hood after CLR-PRO Cleaning



Rebuilt carb



Seat recovered



Truck bed before sanding and chem-treatment



Cab floor after CLR-PRO, prior to chem-treatment



Truck after first CLR-PRO Cleaning
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 10:42 AM
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Thats a nice-looking truck. If it were mine, I would just do the mechanical and enjoy it.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 5851a
Thats a nice-looking truck. If it were mine, I would just do the mechanical and enjoy it.
Thanks! That is mainly the plan - doing the electromechanical work and driving it. Engine is running great, transmission seems to be working well, new oil in differential. A couple months of work on interior and replacing some other minor stuff and I'll be on the road (by springtime I would guess).
Wes
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 07:38 PM
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12 Aug 22 Update

Hello All,

finished sanding cab and bed frame areas today and treated with rust converter product (2 coats). Also, filled 4 pinholes (one larger than that) in the cab with JB Weld after rust converter treatment.

In the next week, plan is to finish cab prep and install new headliner and cab interior / door panels, new rubber floor mat and recovered seat.

Wes


Frame, sanded and rust converter applied

Cab with rust converter treatment and JB weld (grey in middle of pic) over some pinholes.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2022 | 03:30 PM
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Quick update - Got the new door seals installed (and bottom seal on cab sill). Also got new rear window seal on, though was just a fit check as I have to reinstall once I put on the glass sealer. Also, picked up the steel cross members for the bed - this was about $200, but once I get them cut to size and get the holes drilled (top and bottom) for the bolts, I will prime and paint before install.




 
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Old Aug 19, 2022 | 11:57 AM
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You may already know this, but the box frame rails should be welded in under the bedside runners. I used the same steel to build mine. I should have some good pics in my build for you to see how I did that.

Love your truck, I'll be watching your build!
 
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Old Aug 19, 2022 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyguns
You may already know this, but the box frame rails should be welded in under the bedside runners. I used the same steel to build mine. I should have some good pics in my build for you to see how I did that.

Love your truck, I'll be watching your build!
Thanks Anthony, and yes, agree. I got them out of my van after picking them up (they were covered with typical oil from being cut) and I put them in the bed in the approximate location they would go.

While I have you, I am planning on bolting them to the frame versus weld - you don't see any issues with that do you?

Thanks,
Wes
 
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Old Aug 19, 2022 | 01:28 PM
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Not at all, that should be plenty strong. I actually took my bedside runners out by drilling out all those rivots and replaced them with bolts. I had rust behind them pretty bad. The main reason I welded my cross braces in that way was to strengthen the box to cut down lateral wobble these truck can have going over bumps. it is very stable now.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2022 | 07:04 AM
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Weekend update

Hello all,

Here's some pics of odds and ends I got done this weekend.

I got the new defroster hoses installed and heater installed in the cab and connected to engine. I also made a huge mess draining the coolant so I could install a petcock on radiator (previous owner had a leaking engine heater installed) and while I was in there, I replaced the 180 degree thermostats with 160 degree units that match the spec listed in the shop manual.

I also replaced the dome light wiring and the fuel sending unit wiring.

Finally, I installed the door panels and a heat shield / sound deadener (foil on top side for heat shield, padding on other side for sound) on roof of cab as well as behind where seat goes.

This week I'm still targeting installing the headliner and rest of the interior pieces, the rubber floor mat and the recovered seat - Will send a pic when the interior is "done".


will clean up engine when a rebuild is needed

Still have to clean up wiring.

Headliner is installed over this
 
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Old Aug 30, 2022 | 07:49 AM
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Nice work and it looks good.

If you are still 6 volt I would get a heavier positive cable. It should be 00 gauge or similar.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2022 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by abe
Nice work and it looks good.

If you are still 6 volt I would get a heavier positive cable. It should be 00 gauge or similar.
Thanks! I am a 12 volt system.
Wes
 
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Old Sep 3, 2022 | 04:53 PM
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Hello all,

Major progress (for me at least, lol).

Finished the interior install, removing the bed and did some additional scotch bright / CLR-Pro on cab.

I removed the bed by myself with a homemade contraption and 2 floor jacks. QUESTION: What would you do with the bed / box based on these new pics?

Here's the link to my engine running and question about smoke, especially coming out of the oil fill tube - I don't appear to be using oil, but wondering how much white smoke is acceptable?

Thanks all!
Wes








 
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Old Sep 3, 2022 | 04:58 PM
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Had too many pics to include all in first post - here's the pics of the "new interior" - can also see it briefly in the engine running video I provided a link for in previous post.



 
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Old Sep 3, 2022 | 07:13 PM
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Headliner looks better than any I've been in. White smoke is probably just condensation evaporating, normal byproduct of internal combustion engines, the road draft system of crankcase ventilation only works when driving. Rest of the truck, just drive and enjoy, every 70-year-old has a few wrinkles here and there.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2022 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 5851a
Headliner looks better than any I've been in. White smoke is probably just condensation evaporating, normal byproduct of internal combustion engines, the road draft system of crankcase ventilation only works when driving. Rest of the truck, just drive and enjoy, every 70-year-old has a few wrinkles here and there.
Thanks for the input, much appreciated. Now that you mention it, I think I will clean the oil filler tube cap as it might be contributing somehow. I will say that the white smoke goes away after I go on a short drive and then let the truck idle in the driveway.
Thanks for the comment about headliner - It's not perfect at all, but really made the truck look much more finished. Floor mat I screwed up the holes for shifter and emergency brake, but will look for something to go over both of them that will cover the "too big" holes I made for both of them. BTW, the headliner kit (from Dennis Carpenter, $250-ish) includes the headliner, two pieces an either side of rear window, two pieces below rear window, 2 pieces from gas tank to door, and two pieces for kick plate area. I also bought the two new door panel pieces and all colors (I went with grey) all look really good. I went with grey for the seat cover for that reason.

Thanks,
Wes
 
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