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Having recently installed my rebuilt carburetor and drove my truck back to my place from my buddy's farm (about 5 miles) I spent the day adjusting the clutch, pulling out the old rusted truck bed metal, and trying to clean up the cab interior.
I used a wire brush attachment on my drill (slow speed) to remove as much surface rust chunks as I could from the floor, then used CLR-PRO and a scotchbrite pad to scrub the floor up really well. A lot of the original Sheridan Blue paint started to come through, but I also have plenty of rusty metal left and discovered a couple pin holes and one hole about 1/2" diameter.
I am not a welder and was thinking I could treat the floor with one of those "rust converter" chemicals that turns the rust black and supposedly stops further rusting, and then use JB Weld to seal up the 4-5 small holes. I would then probably spray primer over the entire floor before putting down the new rubber floor mat i bought.
Thoughts welcome please!
Driver's side most rusty Here's the largest hole passenger side honestly mostly blue and bare metal
I think your plan would work. However my goal was to build a solid driver, not a show truck.
When I rebuilt my 48 F1 I used "Fibre-Strand" in weak floor areas and even running boards - places that would be protected by another covering. FS is basically bondo with fiberglass flocking in the compound. Painted with red oxide epoxy primer, then color. 23 years later those areas are still holding up well.
edit - when I did that I had no idea what I was doing and FTE was a bulletin board without all the help that is here today. These are shining times! Enjoy your truck!
I think your plan would work. However my goal was to build a solid driver, not a show truck.
When I rebuilt my 48 F1 I used "Fibre-Strand" in weak floor areas and even running boards - places that would be protected by another covering. FS is basically bondo with fiberglass flocking in the compound. Painted with red oxide epoxy primer, then color. 23 years later those areas are still holding up well.
edit - when I did that I had no idea what I was doing and FTE was a bulletin board without all the help that is here today. These are shining times! Enjoy your truck!
Thanks for the input, appreciate it. I also have the goal to build a solid driver, not a show truck.
Wes
For as solid as your floor is otherwise and for as little repairs it needs, your plan is probably just fine. I've always been a do it right or don't kind of guy, but for what you need and what you're going to do with it, it will likely last as long as you need it to. The only thing I'd probably add would be to have a paint shop mix up some Sheridan Blue and put into a couple rattle cans, and finish the floor nice after your repairs and primer is done. Then, under the seat and under the mat would look correct and pretty when you opened the doors.
For as solid as your floor is otherwise and for as little repairs it needs, your plan is probably just fine. I've always been a do it right or don't kind of guy, but for what you need and what you're going to do with it, it will likely last as long as you need it to. The only thing I'd probably add would be to have a paint shop mix up some Sheridan Blue and put into a couple rattle cans, and finish the floor nice after your repairs and primer is done. Then, under the seat and under the mat would look correct and pretty when you opened the doors.
Thanks - I would like to do that with the Sheridan Blue; two shops in town both quoted the correct Sheridan Blue at $500 / gallon and wouldn't / couldn't sell less than that. I didn't ask about rattle cans at the time, but these guys didn't seem all that interested in classic car paint, so I'm sure would want even more to get it mixed and put in rattle cans.
Anyone know any online paint shops that could do that? I would like the ability to do other areas in correct blue too.
On one of my projects I had installed a stainless steel gas tank. When I filled the tank I noticed that one of the spot welds was seeping. I could repair the leak with any number of adhesives but all would look bad on the new polished stainless steel. I found some stainless steel blanks on etsy that were just the right size to cover the repair and these disks were thin enough (24 ga) to look like a "feature" rather than a repair. On your floor repairs, I would clean up the hole and use an adhesive that you are comfortable with, JB Weld or whatever, and place/glue a disk on each side of the hole. The hole will be covered and the formerly rusted area will be isolated preventing further rust. Neat, clean, and no special tools/skills required. Good luck...
I would cover the rusted areas with POR 15. If you want to paint over it they have a self etching primer, hit it with that and then paint over it if you like.
$50ma gallon doesn’t seem out of line. If you’re looking for smaller quantities, like a quart, you could take a piece to a local paint supply and have them match it. I did that, brought my ashtray to the local Sherwin-Williams, they scanned it and came up with a good match, and they were willing to sell it by the quart.
Hello, I usually get steel snap in plugs in whatever size I need a hair bigger than the hole, 3/8,1/2, 3/4, etc.drill the rusty hole out, smear a little seam sealer around the perimeter, push the plug in, then smear seam sealer over it flat. Works Great for me. All of the options sound good. Good luck, larry
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