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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 01:18 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Marsh90250
Also good to mention is when I try to start the truck, sometimes the bendix can be heard clicking, still no crank though
Originally Posted by Marsh90250
Put a new neutral safety switch in today will update later if it works or not
If it’s clicking then not likely to be the NSS. But fingers crossed for ya.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 01:24 PM
  #17  
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My money is on either bad connections or starter/solenoid since you get some clicking down there. Power at the starter when turned to 'start' is easy enough to test and dropping the starter and having it tested isn't that bad either.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
My money is on either bad connections or starter/solenoid since you get some clicking down there. Power at the starter when turned to 'start' is easy enough to test and dropping the starter and having it tested isn't that bad either.
I do get some clicking but it’s very hit or miss. Sometimes it does but most of the time it doesn’t.
NSS didn’t fix the problem. Are you talking about the starter solenoid on the starter because I replaced that part 3days ago. If you’re talking about the starter solenoid on the fender this one doesn’t have one (2002) I’ll go ahead and probe the big lead going to the starter for 12 volts. I think it’s the starter itself but I’ll make sure first. I’ll have to run all this buy my sister, it’s her truck and her money after all so she gets to make the decisions haha
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 01:50 PM
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Just tested the voltage, with the key in the on position I got 12.5volts running to the starter solenoid on the starter. I don’t have an assistant to turn the key to start while I check the other post for voltage, but I guess I could jump the two large posts to determine if the starter works? What do you think
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 02:02 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Marsh90250
Just tested the voltage, with the key in the on position I got 12.5volts running to the starter solenoid on the starter. I don’t have an assistant to turn the key to start while I check the other post for voltage, but I guess I could jump the two large posts to determine if the starter works? What do you think
I jumped the starter solenoid on the starter, no dice. Usually when I arc these points on other trucks I get a pretty strong current running through it, powerful enough to do some welding, but not this one. Small sparks and nothing more, no clicks or sounds coming from the starter. Maybe since it’s not arcing like crazy it could be the starter since it’s not using all the potential amperage it’s supplied by the batteries and wires to arc like it should, or maybe there is just a crappy wiring connection to the starter that can not supply the appropriate amperage
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 02:24 PM
  #21  
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Is there room to jump the solenoid on the starter? If you can bump the load wire going into the motor itself, provided it also has good ground, it should turn. If it doesn't fair chance it's bad, if it does then the motor isn't your problem.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 07:12 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
Is there room to jump the solenoid on the starter? If you can bump the load wire going into the motor itself, provided it also has good ground, it should turn. If it doesn't fair chance it's bad, if it does then the motor isn't your problem.
I tried using a multimeter to run some tests with an assistant to turn the key for me. Brand new starter solenoid like I said earlier, but I still have no voltage running through to the starter when I turn the key to start. I did arc the new solenoid with a wrench across the two larger points and all I got was sparks, no sounds from the starter. This has got me thinking the ignition wire (signal wire) is not supplying 12v to the solenoid and I’ll have to trace that issue back up through the ignition system and it’s sensors. As far as the starter itself goes? I’m not sure if it’s bad or not. It didn’t make any noise when I jumped it so maybe I need to clean up the area where it bolts to the trans to get a better ground, or else it’s bad too.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 07:25 PM
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I don't know enough about starters to know if lack of draw would indicate a bad starter but lack of amps due to poor connections could cause that.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 08:00 PM
  #24  
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So you crossed the large lugs at the starter and the starter still didn’t turn correct?

How much sparking did you get? Should be plenty.

I see this as either an issue with the large supply wire to starter, starter itself, or some mixed up stuff when you replaced the solenoid.

Can you get a jumper box directly on the hot of the starter? Ground the box to engine block and touch the hot to large lug (starting side). It should turn over. On second thought, it may be better to connect the hot side on the starter post since it’s probably hard to reach then just touch the ground to the block.
I apologize if this isn’t possible to reach. It’s been a while since I looked at the wires on our starter.

 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 01:04 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
So you crossed the large lugs at the starter and the starter still didn’t turn correct?

How much sparking did you get? Should be plenty.

I see this as either an issue with the large supply wire to starter, starter itself, or some mixed up stuff when you replaced the solenoid.

Can you get a jumper box directly on the hot of the starter? Ground the box to engine block and touch the hot to large lug (starting side). It should turn over. On second thought, it may be better to connect the hot side on the starter post since it’s probably hard to reach then just touch the ground to the block.
I apologize if this isn’t possible to reach. It’s been a while since I looked at the wires on our starter.
I didn’t get much spark, visually it was a decent spark, but it didn’t have the intensity behind it (amperage I guess) like a welder would.
the issue was present before the starter solenoid was replaced, and it was installed correctly I’m sure of that.
And as for using a jumper box i got one I can use, sounds like a good idea. I will hook up the booster and bridge the solenoid once more to see what happens, if that does nothing then surely the starter is bad. I will take the starter out after the test if it doesn’t turn and check all the leads for corrosion and ohm them out. I have a few 7.3’s hanging around here so I can swap a starter out pretty quick if that’s what it ends up being
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 02:17 AM
  #26  
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You could have the starter tested for free at many auto part stores. I'd expect QC issues for such testing so watch them do the test.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 03:37 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
You could have the starter tested for free at many auto part stores. I'd expect QC issues for such testing so watch them do the test.
Unless they can bench test a starter which I don’t know of any in my area who can do that unless it’s on the vehicle, and The truck can not move as it is already
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 05:40 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Marsh90250
Unless they can bench test a starter which I don’t know of any in my area who can do that unless it’s on the vehicle, and The truck can not move as it is already
A phone call or two can have that question answered and I have several within five miles of me who can do it, including Pep Boys.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 05:40 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Marsh90250
Unless they can bench test a starter which I don’t know of any in my area who can do that unless it’s on the vehicle, and The truck can not move as it is already
That is exactly what they can do. Stores like Oreillys, just bring the starter with you and they can bench test it.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 06:34 PM
  #30  
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She Took the old starter out and tested it today. no good. We got a new starter for it and she’s gonna put it in tomorrow or later today. she’s gonna rebuild her old starter as well. Thanks everyone will update if there’s anything else
 
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