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I installed a new redhead steering box on my truck and bled the system with the wheels jacked turning it left and right around 20 times til it turned smoothly then dropped it back down. PS is full with Synthetic ATF and has no foam or air bubbles and no whinning noises. Reason for replacing was old one was worn, adjusted all the way, leaking and oem. My tires are 37s
I don't see much of a difference yet and when I'm not moving I can't turn the wheel more than half turn in each direction. It starts off assisted then freezes up unless I'm driving.
I took some pictures, I have around a 4 inch lift the way I bought the truck. Does it have something to do with my pitman arm? It's not dropped like others I've seen.
Lastly, my steering wheel still has play to it. When I shake it back and forth without the wheels Turning I see the spline that goes into the steering box turning exactly with the steering wheel so the issue has to be around the box.
Any help or tips would be appreciated. Never worked on front ends before. Thank you
With the truck jacked up, yes I'm able to turn all the way left and right very smoothly. When I lose assist I hear a slight sound but very light Def not the whining noise you have to be really listening.
Yes, when I turn the wheel the pitman arm turns before the wheels when turning lightly. I do have a worn ball joint near the passenger wheel which leads to the pitman arm. I forgot the name of that bar.
Yes, there are shims under the front spring, pictures below. That's how I bought the truck. The blocks are in the rear.
I do have a worn ball joint near the passenger wheel which leads to the pitman arm. I forgot the name of that bar.
Tie rod end, not Ball Joint. That being worn will give you a sloppy steering, and they can't do a good alignment until it's fixed.
Pitman arm to wheel/tie rod is the drag link. Wheel to wheel is tie rod.
Originally Posted by Brooklynh87
Yes, there are shims under the front spring, pictures below. That's how I bought the truck. The blocks are in the rear.
I can see them turning in there, they should be longer and fit between the ubolts. Hopefully those are held together with the leaf spring center pin, but I wouldn't be surprised if they're not.
I'd replace them with some zero rates or mini-packs.
Appreciate that. I'll have them tell me what I need and replace before the alignment.
Thanks for sending me those. I'll double check everything to make sure. Going to be hard to get those u bolt nuts off. I'll see what the shop can recommend while I'm there.
Appreciate that. I'll have them tell me what I need and replace before the alignment.
Thanks for sending me those. I'll double check everything to make sure. Going to be hard to get those u bolt nuts off. I'll see what the shop can recommend while I'm there.
It's recommended to replace the u bolts if they are removed. Your call on that just thought I'd put the info out there. Another thing to check while diagnosing sloppy steering is the knuckles themselves. The tapered hole the tie rod ends go through can wallow and become our of round. Can be hard to catch if not specifically looking for it.
how did the " rag joint" feel when you swapped the steering box? the end of the steering shaft that is, they can add play to the steering but won't cause the loss of steering while sitting still. that sounds like a weak power steering pump or an issue with it anyway.
I have installed 3 steering gears in my truck over the past 5 years and never had the alignment checked or done afterward. It still goes down the road straight as an arrow. I'm not saying this is the recommended practice or a good practice, just saying that the only adjustment I needed to make was the slip collar on the track bar in order to center the steering wheel.
I helped a friend install a steering gear on his truck and I don't think he had an alignment afterward either.
Plus one on the zero rate add a leaf. Have them on mine. I’d think with 37’s a steering ram might be needed. I don’t think there’s a gear box out there that can turn 37’s or 35’s from a dead stop unassisted.
As far as the U bolts, when I installed my dual stabalizer, the mount for them was placed onto each of the outer front u bolts. I they weren't coming off at all so the same truck shop I'm going to this week used acetylene to cut them off and fabbed up 2 new ones for me. Every bolt on this truck I had to work with gave me a hard time. Even 1 of the steering box mounting bolts snapped in the center. (it's a NY truck)
As far as the end of the steering shaft I didn't change the 2 semi circles which are known to cause play. They seemed to be in good shape but was told after its good to change those out as well when having it all apart. Wish I known sooner.
Glad to hear it's not typical for 37s not to turn when stopped so might not have much of an issue at all being this is normal for my setup. Just have to get the play out of the steering wheel by fixing some joints and I'll be happy.
I know one person mentioned I didn't but want to make sure that my current pitman arm is fine and I don't have to go with a drop. Turns pretty damn good and smooth when rolling.
Get a helper to turn the steering wheel back and forth. With truck not running, all 4 (or 6) tires on the ground. Have them saw back and forth on the wheel for a few minutes while you lay under the front and observe all the joints. Look for relative motion between each connection.
Could also be ball joints. With wheels up yank firmly with hands at 3 and 9, and again at 12 and 6. With heavy wheels you may need a bowl of Wheaties first.
