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They're also really good at squeezing yoke ears together so the retaining clips no longer fit in the grooves.....if a guy gets "western" with it.
The OP's driveshaft is a cheap(er) aftermarket offering already. Even owning/operating a repair shop and spending my life doing these types of jobs, I STILL pony up the money to have a driveshaft shop replace the whole assembly. Too much at stake to end up with a vibration or failure....transfer cases are expensive.
The term "bigger hammer" was never in my vocabulary when I owned the shop. If I driveline shop can change them, then so can I, and I did so on my truck to install zerk equipped u-joints. I get the balance issue, but mine turned out silky smooth all the way up to the rev limiter on my 4:88 F-550.
They're also really good at squeezing yoke ears together so the retaining clips no longer fit in the grooves.....if a guy gets "western" with it.
The OP's driveshaft is a cheap(er) aftermarket offering already. Even owning/operating a repair shop and spending my life doing these types of jobs, I STILL pony up the money to have a driveshaft shop replace the whole assembly. Too much at stake to end up with a vibration or failure....transfer cases are expensive.
Not sure what the better deal having a shop do the rebuild or replacement. When my front drive shafts double cardan went out I had plans to rebuild it but soon after needed 4x4 immediately. Ended up buying the whole assembly from the dealer. When I paid to have the rear DS done it was 550 replacing everything but the tube.
Hope this helps someone in the future. I've found that the other difference in the earlier units...99-00...is within the centering c/v joint. I ordered the Moog 617...used on the later trucks...and once I looked at it, the centering ball setup is different. I do not know if they interchange as I did think about going that route, but didn't want to worry about the driveshaft not being balanced if that part was replaced. On that unit the ball is larger, it rides on a smaller sleeve, has internal needle bearings, and has a smaller lighter spring to push back. I researched and found out that my unit needed a Spicer 211009x or Neapco 2-9302 which has a smaller ball, it rides on a larger 3 piece bushing, and has a very large spring to push back. It looks a little harder to get together...we shall see this weekend...but it appears to be beefierand less problematic...
I received the Spicer kit today and immediately noticed the grease seal was defective and has a hole in it. Looks like a return and wait for another one...hopefully Tuesday...
It's been installed now for a couple of weeks and I've driven it around with no issues, but have yet to pull it in 4wd. For future reference I'm attaching these two links that show the odd ball cardan joint, which my 2000 F350 had, and the reason it took so long to exchange/order parts. Mine was not the typical unit that pulls up in the parts stores, and from what I understand were the earlier design. I've read where these were used in the 99-00 trucks, and in my opinion appear stronger. Hope it helps someone later as the joints do not interchange, so the only way to make the other work is to buy the yoke that has the correct corresponding center piece. I did not get my parts from the links below as they do not offer them anymore, but you can see how it works and get the part numbers to order it off the interweb like I did...
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