So. my 2002 F-250 4WD XLT CCLB (225,000) needed a brake line repair because of a leaking master cylinder eventually lead to a pin hole leak in the line directly below it. There is a factory union as it joins the long pipe from the rear to the line coming from the ABS module. I decided to tackle it myself. I ordered a complete SS Brake Line Kit for my year from Inline Tubes, MN. I was going to change the rear lines, the flex hoses from the calipers, the long run of pipe along the frame rail from the rear to the front (drivers side), and 3 lines from the ABS Module. I also eventually changed the center axle hose ( that feeds the rear hard lines) It came in and I began the work after much research. Since all of the brake juice had leaked out, it was the best of conditions to start. With work and such and the Florida rain/sun it was even more of a challenge. There are some takeaways from this attempted fix.
1. I changed out the 2 lines from the ABS module to the MC, not a problem. Threads fit and every thread I start by hand and never wrenched it until it was in good.
2. Changed the line from the ABS that joins to the rear pipe. Along this route there was 3 unions, none of these leaked or showed any signs of leakage after the install.
3.Everthing (thread) was finger started to ensure a proper fit.
4. The gas tank was shifted by me, dropping the front strap allowing enough room to remove old pipe, snake in new pipe and secure in the frame clips. (If you have the time, I probably would have removed the tank completely). As it was the truck was not driven in about 2 months.
5. Where the center axle brake hose snakes upward to a bracket (mounted to the frame rail) and to where the long pipe meets up presented me with 2 failures. I can't explain other than doing this on your back you don't get a good line of sight and "fittings and how they are lined up". I am confidant that my threading process was correct. If any any time it didn't go smoothly in, I stopped and started again. While bleeding the brakes manually, this area showed "droplets", when pressurized, it leaked. TEARS!!
6. Thinking this rear axle hose fitting was the issue , I changed out this 20 year old hose, reconnected and noticed every installers worst nightmare. When I finger tightened and wrenched it, there was still some brake juice coming out. Under pressure for the 2nd time, it leaked drops. MORE TEARS!
7. I also think removing the bed gets you an unobstructed view and wider open spaces to see, line up and move around. If you can get that bed off.
So, I did what every driveway mechanic does at this point, we filled it up with brake juice and limped it and my pride into the local mechanic.
I am awaiting the repair and hopefully it was a threading issues. I don't know if the flare fitting on the pipe failed. Something did as it leaked after 2 attempted fixes in the same area.
Has anyone ever gone through a repair only to have it go bust? And yeah, I don't even own a creeper so this was done with the truck on 2 jack stands, cardboard on the ground. I think ideally its best if the truck is in the air so your line of sight is not affected.......
I think changing out all of the hoses within the length of the job would be best too. Marrying old to newer fittings and threads might have caused something to go wrong here.
Anyone who has done this feel free to comment. I am willing to learn what could have gone wrong.

Here is the area that gave me ulcers. This pix is before I installed the new center axle brake hose that runs from the rear axle. It's "wet" in the pix. When pressurized, it was worse. Same result even when changing to a new center brake hose. Maybe the flare (bubble) fitting was compromised?

 

PJ,

I would think that the flare has an issue. I am not familiar with the company that you purchased your brake lines from but when I make brake lines I am super-**** about making sure my cut is perfectly square and the ID & OD are completely burr free. Usually any imperfection will cause a leak.

Sorry to hear about your luck. Hopefully the shop can get you squared away quickly and easily.

— Dave

 

Yes, if the flare was off when it was created, no amount of tightening will seal up the joint. I've learned this through experience.

 

Sounds like all of your new lines are stainless steel and I'm guessing flared by the manufacturer? I've heard stainless steel has to be annealed to relieve stress when flaring. For that reason, the only way I'll buy stainless steel lines is if they are flared for me.

SS is harder than typical metal used for brake lines. You may have to tighten, loosen, and re-tighten the flare nuts to seat the SS lines. You may need to do the tighten, loosen, and retighten several times. (This is assuming you have the correct flare angle which you probably do). I bought a complete set of pre-bent and pre-flared brake lines for my 2002 pickup. I had to do this on my truck for a few of the fittings.

If your fittings all snugged up with finger tightening then I would guess the threads are all good. Take a moment to relax and then try the tighten, loosen, retighten on the leaky fittings...may take 20 cycles.

The copper-nickel "ez-bend" bulk brake line from Napa bends easy and flares easy. Usually one good snug with the wrench is all that kind of steel needs. And it seems to have excellent corrosion resistance. SS is tougher and needs more encouragement to prevent leaks.

 

^x2 I once replaced everything in the brake system on a Fiero with a stainless kit. Had a devil of a time getting it sealed up.

 

SS is hard and doesn't deform to seal the joint as easily as NiCu or regular steel lines. You generally need to do a few tighten/loosen cycles and you need to make it TIGHT each time. Without tight fitting flare wrenches, it's not easy to do. Since the flare is a 90Deg. angle, you can dress/lap it by hand pretty easily with a drill or grinding stone with the same angle to smooth out any deformation to the sealing faces from forming dies. This should be done with the line out of the vehicle so it can be properly flushed of any debris.

 

Update on my Brake Lines:......So after limping my truck and my pride into the local mechanic, the fix was performed. According to the mechanic, he said (and showed me the parts) that it was the flare in the pipe that was wrong. Furthermore he insists that Ford used a single flare not a double flare on the pipes. When he saw me walk in to pick up the truck, he said "who's the master mechanic"? OUCH!! He re-made the flare on the rear hard lines. No where else did it leak along the run from the ABS to the back. The only place it did was along the rear axle where it's 2 hard lines, and the flex hose that's mounted to the axle pipe. You live and you learn from these experiences. Okay, it cost me $400 to get it fixed and it had to be done. It's my only ride and we're moving in 2 weeks. I bit the bullet this time and chalked it up as a life lesson. I had never done a replacement of brake lines in my life, 58 is good time to start...LOL

 

I very much appreciate the follow up as I was curious what the mechanic would do. I ain't saying your mechanic is wrong but I will say that's the first time I've ever heard or read of using a single flare on a automobile. I've done mostly double flare and some bubble flare depending on the auto I'm fixing. I usually just get bulk line and make my own flares but splurged and treated my wife to stainless custom lines for her truck since we plan to keep that truck for a long time.

If you have the old lines, take a look and see if they're single flare. I've seen "master mechanics" be plumb wrong more that once...they're only human. I've been wrong a time or two as well

 

IDK what your mechanic was looking at, but all OEMs use either a double flare or a bubble flare on brake lines. I think it might even be a D.O.T requirement. Single flared lines can't safely handle the pressures in a hydraulic braking system and have a much higher chance of failure. Unless the line was replaced incorrectly before you bought the truck it should have been a double flared line. If your mechanic put single flares in the lines I would be making him repair it correctly, immediately. And I'd never go back to that mechanic again, he's endangering his customers lives. I'd also either plan on taking the line off and inspecting it, or paying a different mechanic to check it, after the first one repairs it. Something like this is too easy to say it was repaired correctly the 2nd time without ever actually doing anything.

 

I would add this. Double flare is standard for braking systems, and yes you do see bubble flare as well. I installed the complete brake line system from SSTubes, the install went fine.

Just a quick clarification on stainless steel....it's not hard, it's tough.

 

I don’t think 1930s brake systems used single flare. I wouldn’t use that mechanic ever again just because of his snide remark, not because he’s wrong about brake lines.

— Dave

 

Mechanic is 100% wrong that it is a single flare. If he truly did a single flare, that is NOT a safe system and I wouldn't drive it. Hopefully, he is confused with his terminology.