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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Parking brake weak

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Old Aug 3, 2022 | 01:09 AM
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Prototypemech
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From: Mojave, Ca
Parking brake weak

I make a point of replacing parts on my truck with genuine motorcraft parts. A few years ago, I rebuilt my rear drum brakes using all new motorcraft parts. I noticed the parking brake tangs didn't have much area to push on the shoe since it only touched about 1/2 of the face of the shoe. The parking brake never really worked well and it would slowly bring the truck to a stop if I slam on the parking brake lever. Recently, the pedel has been going lower and lower, and the parking brake has been getting weaker and weaker. Since I find myself on boat ramps alot, I figured it was time to find out why my parking brake has been getting worse.
today, I pulled off both rear drums, cleaned and re-adjested the adjuster, and noticed my parking brake tang has been jumping on top of the shoe and peeling away steel from the shoe like cheese off a block. So I'm not impressed with the ford design. Maybe my parking brake arm or pivot shaft has worn to the point of allowing this to happen, but I gotta fix it. Stay tuned for the fix.

 
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Old Aug 3, 2022 | 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Prototypemech
I make a point of replacing parts on my truck with genuine motorcraft parts. A few years ago, I rebuilt my rear drum brakes using all new motorcraft parts. I noticed the parking brake tangs didn't have much area to push on the shoe since it only touched about 1/2 of the face of the shoe. The parking brake never really worked well and it would slowly bring the truck to a stop if I slam on the parking brake lever. Recently, the pedel has been going lower and lower, and the parking brake has been getting weaker and weaker. Since I find myself on boat ramps alot, I figured it was time to find out why my parking brake has been getting worse.
today, I pulled off both rear drums, cleaned and re-adjested the adjuster, and noticed my parking brake tang has been jumping on top of the shoe and peeling away steel from the shoe like cheese off a block. So I'm not impressed with the ford design. Maybe my parking brake arm or pivot shaft has worn to the point of allowing this to happen, but I gotta fix it. Stay tuned for the fix.
im gonna post some stuff,

Control, Parking Brake, F-150, F-250, F-350, Bronco

Removal
  1. NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.

    Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
  1. Remove the cowl side trim panel (02344).
  1. Disconnect the parking brake signal switch and bracket connector at the parking brake control (2780).
  1. Relieve tension on the parking brake system by having an assistant pull directly rearward on the intermediate cable until all front parking brake cable and conduit (2853) is unwound from the parking brake control. Be careful not to damage the coating on the parking brake cable.
  1. Insert a 4mm (0.156-inch) drill bit or equivalent size pin into the hole provided in the parking brake control.


  1. Remove the three nuts holding the parking brake control to the steering column support bracket (3B139). Pull the parking brake control away from the steering column support bracket.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
Item Part Number Description 1 2780 Parking Brake Control 2 2853 Front Parking Brake Cable and Conduit 3 2A793 Intermediate Cable
  1. Disconnect the front parking brake cable and conduit from the cable connector.


  1. Remove the parking brake control and front cable from the vehicle.
  1. Disconnect the barrel end of the front parking brake cable and conduit from the parking brake control.
  1. Disconnect the cable conduit from the parking brake control by inserting a 1/2-inch 12-point box end wrench over the conduit snap fitting to compress the retaining fingers. Back out the snap fitting.
Installation
  1. Route the cable end fitting over the cable shoe. Snap the conduit fitting into the parking brake control. Insert the barrel end into the hole in the track.
  1. Position the parking brake control to the steering column support bracket and install the three retaining nuts. Tighten to 17-23 Nm (13-17 lb-ft).


  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
Item Part Number Description 1 2780 Parking Brake Control 2 2853 Front Parking Brake Cable and Conduit 3 2A793 Intermediate Cable
  1. Connect the front parking brake cable and conduit to the cable connector.


  1. Lower the vehicle and connect the parking brake signal switch and bracket connector.
  1. Carefully remove the drill bit from the parking brake control.
  1. Operate the parking brake several times. Rotate both rear wheels (1007) to be sure that the parking brakes are not dragging.
  1. Install the cowl side panel (02038).



  1. cAN YOU tell me if all or any photos have shown up


 
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Old Aug 3, 2022 | 04:25 AM
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these old bendix brakes man... oto much steps. but Is this one using something behgind where the shoes pivot lol

a


Does yours have all parts? because i think you ma ybe looking at a cable routing/internal to the cable
(Think stretch or
if you reuse the arm and stuff maybe a powder coating and then purple ceramic brake lube to keep them from sticking too
 
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Old Aug 4, 2022 | 12:49 AM
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From: Mojave, Ca


I welded a puddle of steel to the top of the aft brake shoe, and then ground it down til it fit well and fit the profile of the parking brake cam. I did this to both sides. You can see where I accidently nicked the cam with the grinding wheel. It fixed the low parking brake pedal problem, and it increased the effectiveness of the parking brake, but I still can't lock up the rear wheel with the parking brake. I'll investigate the cables next.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2023 | 03:09 AM
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On a slightly unrelated note, I wonder if Ford changed their park brake pedal assembly or offered different versions? I no longer have my '92 F-350... but I remember the footwell area being more "open" than it is on my '93 F-250. Both are manual transmission trucks. But my issue now is: On my '93 when normal driving and bringing the clutch pedal back up to its natural resting point... I can't slide my foot off to the left to remove it from hovering over the clutch pedal, because my foot hits the park brake pedal. It's a very odd gripe... I know. But it's very annoying. I have to consciously lift my foot clear off the pedal and bring it under and to the side of the clutch pedal to bring my foot to rest on the floorboard. I don't remember having this issue in any other 9th gen I've owned. I've had two '92s and a '95 that were manuals. Any ideas?
 
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