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2003 ford F150 XLT 4 wheel drive 5.4L Disc Brakes. The parking brake won't hold the truck when applied. It has a Drum on the rear wheel rotors and brake shoes for the parking brake. I replaced the shoes and cleaned everything with brake cleen. I adjusted the shoes with a brake spoon until a slight drag is felt when turning the wheels. The parking brake pedal is now hard to push. I apply the parking brake but the truck still moves on a slight incline. To pass safety inspection the brake must hold the truck in drive at 1200 rpm. it won't even hold at idle 800 rpm. The brake cables are tight with no slack in them. any Ideas. What am I missing or doing wrong? I applied the parking brake and the levers at the rear wheels moves. I assume this applies the brake shoes. Since I bought the truck used a month ago The parking brake has never held. I could not see any missing parts when I replaced the brake shoes. any help appreciated.
Mel
I applied the parking brake and the levers at the rear wheels moves.
its hard to believe they move freely and full stroke. I would jack up with the tire off, rmove the dics and have someone apply the emergence and see that the shoes move SUGNIFICANTLY and freely. If the shoes were adjusted properly and they are new, it should take little effort to brake.
I applied the parking brake and the levers at the rear wheels moves.
its hard to believe they move freely and full stroke. I would jack up with the tire off, rmove the dics and have someone apply the emergence and see that the shoes move SUGNIFICANTLY and freely. If the shoes were adjusted properly and they are new, it should take little effort to brake.
I have come to the same conclusion that it has to be the levers. I went to auto zone and got a hardware kit with new springs and adjusters. I will disassemble the levers and polish them and use a hi temp lube on them and insure they move freely. When I checked the levers I only checked one side and the lever moved half way. when the parking brake was applied I did not see the brake shoes move very much. I think the levers are rusted and only allowing the lever to move part way. Will tear it down again tomorrow and check everything a little bit better. THanks for the reply.
Mel
those levers are prone to rusting up.....sounds like that may be your issue
That is what I suspect. Things were pretty much rusted in the rear drums and rotors. Calipers are pretty rusted to. Hope the levers can be taken off without breaking something. Will use a bunch of knock rust and penetrating oil.
Mel
Does the parking brake hold better in reverse than forward?
Yes it does. I just went all through pulling the tires and wheels and drums. I installed a new Hardware kit with all new springs, shoes, and fasteners. It does hold better in reverse, but still does not hold good enough to pass inspection. The cables and travel seem to be OK and both of them move when parking brake is pressed and so does the levers. I took the levers off and cleaned and polished them. I put Hi temp grease on them and they move freely. Any Ideas?
Mel
Last edited by mhbell; Nov 5, 2017 at 09:23 AM.
Reason: added text
Yes it does. I just went all through pulling the tires and wheels and drums. I installed a new Hardware kit with all new springs, shoes, and fasteners. It does hold better in reverse, but still does not hold good enough to pass inspection. The cables and travel seem to be OK and both of them move when parking brake is pressed and so does the levers. I took the levers off and cleaned and polished them. I put Hi temp grease on them and they move freely. Any Ideas?
Mel
Mel, I'm sure you Googled the hell out of the subject as did I, what I found was opposing opinions on forward vs reverse holding power, it might be a good idea to contact a Ford dealership technician and get the straight scoop. My 99' rear disc ebrake holds fairly well in reverse and 10% forward. I was told by a brake shop that they're designed to hold in reverse not so much in forward.
I didn't and don't believe that but I don't have to get inspected so I don't care.
Good luck,
Mickey
I watched several films on this subject and I also replaced everything in the parking brake assy. New springs, fasteners, Adjusters, and shoes. I also adjusted them with a brake spoon. Am waiting for new tires as the truck is on jack stands at the present time. I will see if the parking (Ebrake) will now hold at 1200 rpm in drive. This is required to pass safety inspection. Will keep the forum advised as to what happens when I test the parking brakes after getting the new tires.
Mel
I watched several films on this subject and I also replaced everything in the parking brake assy. New springs, fasteners, Adjusters, and shoes. I also adjusted them with a brake spoon. Am waiting for new tires as the truck is on jack stands at the present time. I will see if the parking (Ebrake) will now hold at 1200 rpm in drive. This is required to pass safety inspection. Will keep the forum advised as to what happens when I test the parking brakes after getting the new tires.
Mel
Kind of a silly law, if our engines had a 1000 RPM torque curve..
Good luck,
Mickey
Kind of a silly law, if our engines had a 1000 RPM torque curve..
Good luck,
Mickey
When I first tried the parking Brake it would not even hold on a slight incline. my driveway has a slight slope and with the tranny in neutral and the parking brake set, the truck would roll down the driveway. After adjust with a brake spoon, it still would not hold the truck. That is when I replaced everything. Will find out if it works on Monday or Tuesday when I get the new tires mounted. No way to test it sitting on Jack stands. Yes I agree that the law is kind of silly, but there are times when a parking brake is really needed. I had the same problem with my jeep liberty. It did not pass the safety inspection because of the parking brake I ended up taking it to the jeep dealer. $300 to fix the parking brake. It was barley able to pass the safety and still does not hold to good. This is why I checked the parking brake on my F-150, before taking it to the safety inspection. it costs $45 for safety and emissions. If the vehicle fails either or both you have 15 days to get it fixed and reinspected. After that you have to get a temp permit to drive it to the inspection station and pay another $45 for the re-inspection. With the jeep I was up against the time and the reason I took it to the dealer. Lesson learned do it my self.
One thing I shouls have mentioned but I am over-winded anyways...
Once you determine/repair any defective hardware, the final adjustment should go like this. You fully adjust the star wheel so the shoes are making full contact with the hat drum. This ensures the assembly is self-centering on the backing plate. You then back them out until a faint drag is head.
New shoes may not conform to the drum inside radius, i.e. it may take a while for the shoe radius to meet the drum radius for full contact. It is just like new brake shoes, they may require a few manual adjustments until they fully seat the drum. Remember, this setup is not self adjusting and needs to be manually adjusted on a service schedule.
Depending on year and design, the cables may or may not have adjustment. If stretched they have to be replaced.
The requirement is there to prevent a roll-away. Say you go into get a six-pack and walk bask out and the truck has rolled off into the river...