Has anybody heard from or seen 1Tonbasecamp post? I've been messaging him and he hasn't answered. I've sent a few messages in the last couple months. He was helping me with my project..TIA Nick

 

I can sent him a text and make sure that he is ok. He was on FTE today, and is "On line" right now.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=836157

 

Here I am grizzly. Thanks for the heads up Rich.
I did respond to your last PM so let me know if it does not come through in the next few minutes.

By the way, did you get the wiring diagrams I sent a few months ago? Wasn't sure if they came through and don't remember reading that they did even though we've been conversing over the months now and then.

And regarding the coil question you asked, I would post that here because there are members that are far more ignition coil savvy than I am. The ohms seemed low for points, so all the more reason to post up an inquiry here to find out why your spark seems weak.

Seems to me a lower ohm coil would generate more spark at the plug, but at the expense of shorter lives for the points and condenser.
Maybe that's what you're already dealing with?

Good luck!

Paul

 

Sent you a private message on our prior converstion. Truck is running and sounds great. I hope the video link worked. Now what we're having is a battery draining issue. When it's running the battery voltage stays at 12.45 and slowly starts to drain. Swapped alternator for a new one. Rechecked all the wiring, looks correct. Voltage regulator is wired as follows..
I: comes from the Kwik wire fuse box labeled alternator exciter
A: has 2 wires coming out 1 goes to a condenser looking cylinder under voltage regulator other goes to back of alternator (red terminal combined with a black wire coming from battery side of starter relay)
S: connected to alternator at the black terminal
F: connected to FLD terminal

ground off alternator connected to firewall ground



any ideas?

Thank you Paul,
Nick

 

Doesn’t sound like anything wrong with the alternator. Sounds like it’s wired wrong.
You have the F wire correct to the FLD post on alt, but the S wire should go to the STA terminal on the back of the alternator.
Isn’t that the black one? Or is that the white one?
in the old days it was orange just like the wire, but they changed it in later years.
The A should be at the battery end (starter relay) rather than the alternator end. Probably not the main cause, but still not correct.
The I wire sounds correct from the ignition switch.
But make sure it’s only hot in the ON position only, never in ACC.
that’s probably how they have it in the fuse box, but it never hurts to double check.

At this point the battery isn’t draining on its own. It’s simply not being charged.
That 12.45v is not charging. Should be around 14v or a little more.

 

Now just so we’re clear here, does your instrument cluster have the ammeter or does it have a battery charge light?
And do you have an electric choke on the carburetor?

Normally Ford wired it completely differently from how you have it. Which wiring diagram were you using?

With Ford trucks that have an ammeter in the instrument cluster, the F wire still goes to the FLD post, the S wire goes to the ignition switch (exciter wire), the A wire goes to the battery side of the starter relay, and the I terminal remains unused.

In theory it should work either way. Including the way I described previously.
But that’s not how Ford did it with an ammeter. Only with the light.

 

Of course, instead of just sitting here on my phone I should be the one looking at the diagrams to make sure I’m not blowing smoke!

 

Should I go buy another voltage regulator? Maybe the one I have isn't send the signal to alternator to charge? Do I need to keep that condenser looking thing on the bottom of regulator?

 

Don’t buy a new part unless you think something is wrong with it.
If it’s not wired correctly you can’t tell if it’s the bad part or the bad wiring.
So fix the wiring first.

Can you post up a picture of your alternator?
How about the backside of it where the wires are attached?

 

Do you have an original battery indicator lamp in the dash? If not it would be really helpful to include one.
Either that, or the easier way would be to install a voltmeter somewhere.
Either a standalone aftermarket model, or by having your old ammeter converted to a voltmeter.

 

And we’re going to have to carry on most of our conversation here on the public forum grizzly. Every time I try to respond to your message I get one through, then the next one puts me over my limit.
I don’t want to start deleting messages from my phone, or even try to figure out how to do it. I can only do that back at my computer and then we’re only good for a few messages anyway.
So let’s carry-on here.

First of all I could not see your own video from my phone I saw the linked-to video and I’m not sure he’s correct.
On your truck the original field wire would’ve been orange and the original stator wire would’ve been white with a black stripe.
He called out the field wire as white, but he was also working on a 60s vintage Fairlane or Galaxy if I remember. Might’ve been different back then but for your year the FLD wire is orange.

Are you using the original wiring for the regulator, or did quick wire include new wiring?
I’m guessing the former.

So please post up some pictures of your new alternator and regulator here.
And by any chance did you connect any of these wires to your regulator before it was bolted to the body? You never want to attach power before it’s grounded to the body.
I really want to see how the wires are connected to the back of the alternator.

 

So Paul's ok. That's good news.

 

 

Thanks for the picture.
Is that a second wire on the STA terminal with the black insulator? Or just the one White wire (should have black stripe) by itself?

If you go up to the regulator and unhook it's connector, use a volt-meter to measure at each of the four terminal locations.
You should see full battery voltage on the Yellow "A" wire location.
You should see pretty much full battery voltage on the Green w/red "I" wire when the key is in the ON position. Make sure there is no power in ACC just as a double-check.
You should see nothing on either the S or F wires at this point.

Re-connect the wires to the regulator and check the Orange field wire. Seems to me you should see some lower voltage reading when the key is ON.

Oh, and yes the capacitor/condenser thingies are radio-noise suppressors and are to be found typically on the regulator's Yellow wire, the ignition coil's Red w/green positive wire, and sometimes down on the alternator itself.
None of my trucks have ever had one on the alternator, but I've seen them. All of our trucks probably came with the other two however.

There are ways to test a regulator, but I don't remember what they are. I'll have to consult the book, but someone here may have the procedure memorized.
Oh, and if you can still edit the title of the thread, you might change it to "1G Alternator Not Charging" or something like that.
Get more expert looks I would think.

If testing the regulator does not show any fault, then maybe we should try wiring it like Ford did originally.
That is unless your truck has a battery charge lamp instead of an ammeter?

Paul

 

Yep, still kickin'. Thanks!