Thanks. I’ll read it when I get back to the computer. Trying to read it on my phone is a study in blindness!🙄😎

But I can almost guarantee that it is the same old story. The factory style diagrams clearly show the two different methods of wiring the regulator and alternator, while almost every other aftermarket company, including those that make replacement parts, act like ford never used ammeters and never used two different wiring schemes.

At least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. Until I read the diagram and find out that Kwikwire is one of the few that gets it.

 

As expected, they don't list Ford's alternate scheme. Like many, they don't even acknowledge it, or have perhaps never seen it. Nothing about an ammeter difference. Just the one way, when used with a BAT indicator lamp in the dash.
Considering that AAW has a division that literally makes factory replacement harnesses for some vehicles, you'd think they'd have come across this information.
Hmm, or maybe they know, but figure since you're not going to be using the ammeter with their harness anyway, don't see the need to continue the practice and should have no problems doing it the other way. Hard to say...
They're also very generic and don't follow Ford's practice of attaching the alternator ground directly to the voltage regulator. They expect that the body grounds will be sufficient for this I guess.
Maybe that was true when new, but with paint, rust, cracking welds, and all sorts of other deterioration, it might not hurt to run a small (can be 16ga) wire from the GRD terminal of the alternator, over to the regulator mounting bolt.
Unless you did that already?

And not to pick nits too deeply (though that's exactly what I'm doing!), but they did not even speel "stator" correctomundly.
Oh well, in theory your alternator should still charge wired for an indicator lamp, but perhaps there is something in the system that does not allow this? Can't imagine what that might be though.
Is there a wire for an indicator lamp? That would be the usual source for the White #14 Alt Exciter wire I would think. Sounds like they're taking it right from the accessory branch of the harness though.
Personally, if you test and find out that the White wire has power with the key in both positions, I would make my own circuit, independent of the fuse panel so you can take power along with the IGN Pink wire from the ignition switch. That's how Ford (and everybody else as far as I know!) do it so that your alternator is not active when the key is in the ACC position.
Don't necessarily need to splice into the Pink wire, as your switch might have it's own independent contact point just for the regulator. Is that ignition switch testing diagram you posted earlier for your year truck? If not then maybe someone can post up an image of the back of the switch for your year specifically.
The one in the diagram is certainly an earlier version, such as used on our Early Broncos. Where the ignition and regulator literally share the same terminal.
I believe (but could be incorrect) that for the full size trucks of a certain year forward, there were separate terminals for each. Still keeping the ACC as a separate terminal.

Anyway, check that out if you get the chance, but for sure try the wiring order as we've been speaking. Just the three wires in the three positions, with the "I" location left blank.

Sorry to ramble on, but hopefully you can separate the wheat from the chaff.

Paul

 

And before you go and change everything, maybe just add the extra ground between the alt and reg to see if the charging voltage goes up slightly.
Maybe that 13v was simply indicating a fully charged battery.

 

Can you help me identify what each post is?

This is what I've come up with.

 

 

 

So I spoke with kwik wire tech support they tell me #14 white exciter wire should not have power on ACC. Told me to recheck wiring. I did that. As I tried to show in above pictures. The only posts that have power in accessory is acc post and the constant 12v. They said that if #14 exciter wire still has power after I checked wiring to call them back because the orange Acc wire from fuse box controls the #14 excitor power. 🤷🏾Well, I guess I'll be calling on Monday. Hard part is they're in the Midwest and I'm in California and by the time I get home, they're closed..


Update from kwik wire.

Since I checked wiring and THE ACC wire is wired correctly to the switch and the #14 white alternator wire is still being fed 12 volts at ACC ignition position, they only suggestion they came up with is run a toggle switch on the # 14 exciter wire and toggle it off when I want to use the ACC position on ignition.

What do you guys think of that?