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Also not to mention the MPG readout said 8.1 mpg average and that is with stock sized tires, I know they aren't that accurate but they are usually within 1-2 mpg of that.
^^^good for you for actually driving it! That's the only real way to tell anything. It's like how I can't believe people buy houses from afar based on virtual tours.....you GOTTA walk through it in person
If it was hanging gears something was wrong with 6R140. And yeah, the stock shift strategy sucks. In town I'll lock out 5 and 6 and sometimes 4. That's the cool thing with the 6R140 - you can make it a 2 speed, 3 speed, 4 speed etc
Regardless, now you know the 6.2 isn't for you, and I think that's good.
Also not to mention the MPG readout said 8.1 mpg average and that is with stock sized tires, I know they aren't that accurate but they are usually within 1-2 mpg of that.
I get 13-14 highway unloaded in a CCLB
The 8 suggests the PO towed heavy a lot or just did a lot of in-town driving with lots of idling
Just a question, I never had a turbo on anything and only diesel in a pickup was an old 6.9. But does a turbo keep the same boost at higher altitudes as it does at lower? So the same rated HP, unlike non turbo gas or diesel. Can the newer gas engine make up for some altitude loss with timing and fuel control?
Just a question, I never had a turbo on anything and only diesel in a pickup was an old 6.9. But does a turbo keep the same boost at higher altitudes as it does at lower? So the same rated HP, unlike non turbo gas or diesel. Can the newer gas engine make up for some altitude loss with timing and fuel control?
I was always taught that once you're boosting you're creating your own atmosphere, so I guess that should mean same hp....?
I'm sure EFI helps a little with timing and mixture adjustments....I mean carbs sucked with large elevation changes (aircraft excepted), but comparing to carburetion is kinda a low bar. But I don't think it's offsetting altitude so much as just trying to make the best of the situation and available atmospheric pressure
Just a question, I never had a turbo on anything and only diesel in a pickup was an old 6.9. But does a turbo keep the same boost at higher altitudes as it does at lower? So the same rated HP, unlike non turbo gas or diesel. Can the newer gas engine make up for some altitude loss with timing and fuel control?
I've have had our 6.2 with 4.30 gears for 9 years and it's main job is to pull our 16K trailer. The 6.2 does adjust to the load and altitude compared to older gas motors but it will not equal a turbo charge diesel pulling hills but it's far better than my past 460 and 2 valve V10 I've pulled with.
I only have 75K on ours and 50K of that is pulling our trailer and if it wasn't being our only transportation in the winter it wouldn't have that many none pulling miles. The 6.2 with the 6 speed running around unloaded can fell really doggy and the shifting can be sloppy and soft but after it's been pulled hard everything firms up and it's a different truck but after a few unloaded miles it goes back to it's dog mode and a lot more civilized shifting like people seem to like. We've traveled with other RVers with Dodge, GM and Ford diesels and we don't get left in the dust. Also remember I ordered ours with 4.30 gears for pulling and being it's a DRW it has 17" tires for the lowest possible factory final gearing.
In my 7.3 I can climb a hill at 75 MPH with 10K behind me and not even downshift unless it is a really long climb and EGTs get to high then I have to drop a gear. I know a 6.2 would have to turn 5-6K to keep it at max HP when going up hills and I am OK with that, just don't want to be stuck having to slow down to 50-55 MPH on hills.
Is your 7.3 stock? When you say a hill what grade are we talking? I have yet to see any stock 7.3 pull 10000 lbs up a 6%+ grade at 70-75.
Is your 7.3 stock? When you say a hill what grade are we talking? I have yet to see any stock 7.3 pull 10000 lbs up a 6%+ grade at 70-75.
No it's not stock, can you not see my signature? It is a complete waste to keep a 7.3 stock when you can get an extra 100 hp and 200 ft lbs out of it easily and not sacrifice any reliability.
I need a crew cab for the extra room in the back for people when I take trips.
I will go back to the statements you made in your first post……”tow 10K up hilll at 70-75 like a diesel”………Best bet for you is to look for a ‘15 or ‘16 6.7 PSD and be done. There, it has been said, let the war begin.
I will go back to the statements you made in your first post……”tow 10K up hilll at 70-75 like a diesel”………Best bet for you is to look for a ‘15 or ‘16 6.7 PSD and be done. There, it has been said, let the war begin.
That would be nice, the problems are I don't have a 2 post lift in the garage to pull the cab to fix it when it breaks, tuning and parts to delete them are getting harder and harder to obtain, and they are insanely expensive right now. However I think I would like a 15 or 16 CC LB 6.7 with manual shift 4x4 that is tuned and deleted.
That would be nice, the problems are I don't have a 2 post lift in the garage to pull the cab to fix it when it breaks, tuning and parts to delete them are getting harder and harder to obtain, and they are insanely expensive right now. However I think I would like a 15 or 16 CC LB 6.7 with manual shift 4x4 that is tuned and deleted.
Well, that kind of puts you between a rock and a hard place then. The 6.2 will do the job, but it will never pull like a diesel. One has to stick their foot in it to get the performance out of them and then watch the gas guage go down rapidly. The one I had I was always trying to squeak around 8 MPG when towing long distance ( Between western ND and NW AZ ) which meant keeping it 65 or less with a flatbed trailer, or 55-57 with my 5er.
So that generally meant I almost never saw 6th gear and a lot of time not even 5th.
As far as a 6.7 with a manual, you would have to do your shopping someplace in Latin America for one of those, and importing could be a challenge.
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