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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Jul 14, 2022 | 12:15 PM
  #46  
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Yes, if that is an N1904 carb the vacuum signal where it is connected now will be two low to operate the vacuum advance on your current distributor. Just remember with the dual advance distributor you have now you must set the timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected. If I were doing this, I would remove the line on the carb and plug or cap the fitting on the carb. Start it up and set the timing to 10 BTDC, then hook the vacuum line to the manifold, drive it and see how it acts now.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2022 | 12:19 PM
  #47  
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Yes sir. Thank you. I have been setting the timing with the vacuum disconnected and plugged at 11 BTDC. Will make the adjustments that you suggested and see what happens.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2022 | 08:46 PM
  #48  
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Brad, I really don't know. Looks like Mr. Crop Duster is way more experienced than me.
All the best, may you soon figure out what is wrong.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2022 | 09:26 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by garfieldba
I searched for hours for an air filter assy that would fit, to no avail. The one currently on it was the only one that would fit and was suggested for the new carb. I'm open to suggestions on the air filter thing too.
I am presently researching a normal paper air filter that will fit within the oil bath housing I have on my '66. I'll share what I find with the group....

Originally Posted by garfieldba
Not sure where to go from here: new top end, new remanufactured complete engine, valve job, etc....
don't start spilling money everywhere just yet... look for a local chapter of a Ford truck club. Join it. Go to meetings. Meet people near you and you're bound to get someone with a lot of experience who'll point you in the right direction.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 01:34 PM
  #50  
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Peter,

Thank you for the post. Yeah, it appears that crop duster is a pretty sharp fella.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 01:46 PM
  #51  
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Thank you for the suggestions. I certainly don't want to dump a pile of more money into this truck either, but considering my low cylinder pressure, possible valve or ring issue, and chronic lack of power, I think that it might be best to just take the plunge and drop a new long block in it and be done with it. Since I have a new carb and distributor that would cover the entire motor/components for this truck. From a cursory look on the web, it appears that I can get a new (remanufactured) long block for about 2K from S & J engines (including core and shipping).

Any suggestions on an alternate vendor to pick up a long block form?

One additional question to anyone out there: Since I'm already loosing about 25% of my HP at my elevation, would it be wise to go to the 300 vice the stock 240? Also, would all of my peripherals fit the 300 block (clutch housing, valve cover, oil pan, etc....)?

Thank you for your feedback!
Brad
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 04:46 PM
  #52  
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Oh, sure. Have you ever checked out Ford Six ? There are guys there that Really know the six cylinder engine. Just a suggestion, all the best, Pete
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 07:58 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Engine-Ear
I am presently researching a normal paper air filter that will fit within the oil bath housing I have on my '66. I'll share what I find with the group....

Snip
​​​​​I put a wix 42087 (actually for a corvair) filter in mine.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 09:06 PM
  #54  
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Yes I have. I'm on that one too. Thanks
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 04:47 PM
  #55  
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Yes sir, I have. Crop duster is on there as well as many others have made suggestions that I've tried. Just got my new gas cap and have not tested that one yet.

Thank you
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 08:02 PM
  #56  
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Peter,

Please share a link if you can. Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 08:02 PM
  #57  
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Many thanks, DRM4633!!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2022 | 08:14 AM
  #58  
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Hi, E-E,
Don't know of a link. Bet if you'll type in your space bar what you are looking for would come up 4 you. All the best, Pete
 
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