Power Windows issues - HELP! (2016 F350 SD)

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Jul 3, 2022 | 12:19 PM

IzzyF350

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4th Gear

Joined: Jun 2022

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Power Windows issues - HELP! (2016 F350 SD)

I found some of a 2017-newer thread on electrical issues insightful. I want to run you all through my specific scenario in hopes someone can help me pinpoint the probable cause.

My truck is a 2016 F350 Lariat SD Quad Cab w/ 8’ bed (w/ tailgate back-up camera)
I had to drill out rivets and remove the tailgate plastic liner to fix a busted clip for the tailgate latch-release lever; I have NOT yet replaced the rivets (therefore, I know water can easily get in the tailgate cavity in reasonable amounts)
I hauled some rotten wood for a friend and hosed out the truck bed and tailgate
I later hauled some mulch for the same friend while also towing a dump trailer full and hosed out the truck bed and tailgate
THIS was the first time I’d connected a trailer to the wiring harness 7-pin connector at the bumper (vs. in the bed where I’ve connected my 5th wheel)
It was AFTER the hauling with the trailer and hosing out that the problem began
First problem I recognized was that any of the windows I opened would open but not close (including the “French fry window” between the bed and the back seat of the cab). Initially, I waited 20-30 minutes, came back, and the windows functioned normally. The 2nd time I had the problem, I rolled them down and back up immediately. They worked fine. It was when I then rolled them back down and left them down for a while, they wouldn’t roll back up. I’d leave them alone for a while, then they’d roll back up. Times between them failing and then working varied.
This became a consistent problem to where the windows, whichever one’s we opened would not roll back up. I don’t recall ever having a problem getting the windows to open that initial time on the day the problem would show up. But if they got stuck, they would not open further or close further. Usually, if there was an issue at all, it was with ALL 5 windows (French fry included).
Some unknown factor would change and I always could get them back up. I’ve been dealing with a lot of other things in the course of life and have researched the issue on the side. We don’t use the truck super often so it spends a good bit of time parked during any given week. It has never been garaged or under a carport; just in the shade or under some trees more often than not.
This past month we moved our 5th wheel to another city. We had NO problems with any of the windows during hook up and pulling out. Upon arrival the 2 fronts and the French fry got stuck in the open position. But later went up…like usual.
However, recently, we had to move our 5th wheel from one location on the property to another. We rolled the front windows down for communication and due to the heat. The driver’s side is stuck in the full open position, the passenger is stuck in the 1/2 open position. The 2 rear windows function fine, BOTH from the driver’s side control panel AND from their individual switches (The driver’s side rear seems a little slower than the passenger’s side rear—?). The French fry window opens and closes with no problems.
The passenger side front window doesn’t work from the passenger side switch either.
I have lights on the driver’s side control panel. But my mirrors don’t telescope in and out anymore, which is a newer problem. Last move (4 weeks ago) I believe they telescoped without problem. The electric mirror adjusters for left and right side mirrors still function fine.
And (FINALLY) about a week after the window issue started, the power door locks stopped working BOTH from the remote on the key AND from the driver’s or passenger’s control panels. I checked the fuse for the door locks and found it blown. I pulled a good one from the amplifier slot above it, put it into the slot #20 (20 AMP fuse), and as soon as I pushed the lock button on the key faub, the new fuse blew.

I don’t know where the fuse is for the windows, but I read on a forum that there’s 1 fuse for all the windows (at least all 4 cab windows, no french fry window mentioned).

Any help of where to start and to trouble shoot would be massively helpful. Sorry for the super long description. I don’t have time or money to waste and I’m not under warranty. (Got her used about 2 years ago.)

Last edited by IzzyF350; Jul 5, 2022 at 03:36 PM. Reason: BAD TITLE, FEW RESPONSES (so I changed the title)

Jul 3, 2022 | 12:32 PM

IzzyF350

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4th Gear

Joined: Jun 2022

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Progress?

I've done some trouble shooting and have an update. I'll edit this post here where you are reading with the update. For now, windows in the rear, incisive French fry window still operate fine. Front are still stuck in same position.

I was testing for power with a test light
I removed the door panel and pushed test light probe into the backs of the wire harness
I have detailed notes about outcome of testing
When doing the door lock switch
Something tripped a continuous loop in the rear driver's side door where the lock motor kept cycling. I know it's related to trying to lock the doors from the driver's control panel with the key in the ignition. Whatever it did, it reset the door lock issue. Now all the door lockers work, including the key faub remote locks and the guys doesn't blow.
Notes: the rear driver's side door lock doesn't go up or down but by hand. The rest function normally. Probing the wiring harness at the driver's door control panel, just making contact in the one wire hole trips the cycling loop issue on that rear driver's side door ONLY WHEN THE DOOR IS OPEN AND KEY IS IN THE IGNITION.
Back to the windows: test light shows power at switch when key is ON and switch is clicked in appropriate direction depending on wires. Next I'll check fuses related to motors, power at regulator and motor, and see if I can actuate the motor with an 18V drill battery.
I don't really know what I'm doing. So any advice will help!

Jul 4, 2022 | 05:21 AM

Bugzilla46310

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Nov 2015

Posts: 1,678

Likes: 680

From: DeMotte, IN

I’ve alway taken my truck to the local Ford dealer where I purchased it new for any electrical issues. They always resolved it quickly. Only electrical issue I had with the 2016 was the parking brake pedal rubbing through a main communication cable. On the 2000 I used to own they resolved numerous issues most from rodents chewing through the wires because of the soy based wire covering.

Jul 6, 2022 | 05:06 PM

IzzyF350

Thread Starter

4th Gear

Joined: Jun 2022

Posts: 4

Likes: 0

Update

Fuses are all good
Test light lights up when probing the back of the harness of the front window switches only when the switches are engaged (seems to be working fine)
The window is all the way down. I got into the window regulator and disconnected the harness. I used an 18v drill battery, attached jumper wires, and touched the positive to one of the larger posts on the left side of the regulator's connector pins and one to the other. Nothing happened. When I switched the jumper wires to opposite posts, it makes a clicking noise. But the motor doesn't run up or down at all.
Also I can't get the test light to turn on when I push the window switch with the probe in the plug that goes into the window regulator. There is just one of the larger holes that is hot all the time. I don't know enough about car electrical to know what next, how to interpret this, and whether the motor is good or not.

Any advice on next steps would be much appreciated.