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I have a 1990 F250 5.8l and it will only start if i jump the posts on the starter solenoid. I think I have all the wires hooked up correctly. When I do get it started it runs fine. Anyone have any advice?
I have a 1990 F250 5.8l and it will only start if i jump the posts on the starter solenoid. I think I have all the wires hooked up correctly. When I do get it started it runs fine. Anyone have any advice?
have you made sure the trigger wire works is good also you didnt replace it yet? if oe and miles on your vehicle, maybe buy another and do it just cause I only say this since it is a wear item. .
But if it ultimately was corrosion or a wire etc.. it could still be ok. so you need to possibly fix another issue. but if worn and high use, its probably time regardless.
iwould just first pill it off, clean all connection points+ mounting area
Then clean the wires on truck
Then reattach. no work? Then its witring potentially somewhere. does fuel pump prime when key on?
have you made sure the trigger wire works is good also you didnt replace it yet? if oe and miles on your vehicle, maybe buy another and do it just cause I only say this since it is a wear item. .
But if it ultimately was corrosion or a wire etc.. it could still be ok. so you need to possibly fix another issue. but if worn and high use, its probably time regardless.
iwould just first pill it off, clean all connection points+ mounting area
Then clean the wires on truck
Then reattach. no work? Then its witring potentially somewhere. does fuel pump prime when key on?
What do you mean trigger wire? I checked most of the ground points and all the connections seem fine. The fuel pump does prime, the front pump sounds a whole lot louder than the back and the truck seems to run worse when using the rear tank.
What do you mean trigger wire? I checked most of the ground points and all the connections seem fine. The fuel pump does prime, the front pump sounds a whole lot louder than the back and the truck seems to run worse when using the rear tank.
I am not the most knowledge able on your year, but doesnt your solenoid have 2 posts with wire lugs oin both, then its mounted to the fender, and it then has a single wire on a post at the top in the center that pushes on?
The black wire with a white stripe is an information wire going to the computer to let it know the engine is cranking. The 7 volts if you use a loading test light it would not light. Sounds like you are using a DVM to read this 7 volts and you can not believe it in this situation. Yes the stray 7 volts is coming from the computer (ECM).
The starter solenoid on the fender coil should take this 7 volts to zero.
Sounds like you have a bad clutch switch as the 7 volts should go through the clutch switch to the starter solenoid with the clutch not depressed.
You may also have a bad starter solenoid on the fender sticking closed.
Also make sure the starter solenoid on the fender is grounded to the fender and the fender is grounded to the NEG post of the battery.
@mobyrich unless you know for a fact that he needs an ignition switch, to my knowledge its not something that usually fails "like" this
Its a lot of work and a lot of confidence to tell him to go replace it without checking it. The key switch is also different from that if you meant that.
I mean I dont think its the ignition switch because everything else works when I turn the key. Im thinking it could be the NSS but im not sure how to check
I am not the most knowledge able on your year, but doesnt your solenoid have 2 posts with wire lugs oin both, then its mounted to the fender, and it then has a single wire on a post at the top in the center that pushes on?
It is set up like that yes. Theres 4 other wires hooked up to the hot side of the solenoid but im not sure where they go. They were there on the old solenoid when i bought the truck
I have a 1990 F250 5.8l and it will only start if i jump the posts on the starter solenoid. I think I have all the wires hooked up correctly. When I do get it started it runs fine. Anyone have any advice?
Start at the beginning. It sounds like you are bridging the 2 large posts on the solenoid, by doing this you are BYPASSING the solenoid
To TEST the solenoid pull that little slip on wire off your solenoid and then bridge that now bare little post on your solenoid to the large post on the solenoid that has the other end of the cable hooked to the positive battery post. .....If the engine spins doing this the solenoid is good. If the engine does not spin doing this obviously replace the solenoid.
Now if the solenoid tests good. You have to figure out why the signal is not getting to that little post through the slip on wire. It could be a bad ignition switch or the switch just needs adjusting. It could also be the NSS. It could also be a broken wire or who knows.
It is set up like that yes. Theres 4 other wires hooked up to the hot side of the solenoid but im not sure where they go. They were there on the old solenoid when i bought the truck
OLD solenoid. What brand did you repair it with? I vote part or human (you) error highly likely. I’d double check those wires are cleaned and then the grounding of that solenoid to the fender. Then is the fender grounded to the battery.
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