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Hello I am a 17 year old kid that is building a 57 f100 with a Cleveland. I just tore the motor down and found out it is cracked. I am looking to buy a block of a complete motor. I am in northern ca. thank you
Ebay or the wrecking yards
Rare enough there is only 2 on ebay right now
1 is a auction, the other is a reman 2 bbl most likely a 2 bolt block
Call a wrecking yard with a nationwide locator
You will need Small b big money
I bought a spare Boss 302 motor last year for 8000.00
Hello I am a 17 year old kid that is building a 57 f100 with a Cleveland. I just tore the motor down and found out it is cracked. I am looking to buy a block of a complete motor. I am in northern ca. thank you
Call these folks. In Fresno. Auto Wrecking,Classic Car Parts,Antique Auto Parts,Car Parts,Truck Parts,Turners Auto Wrecking
I have had a Cleveland or two around for 30 years. They are fantastic engines and will give you more horsepower per cubic inch than any pushrod engine Ford ever produced. You need to do a lot of research before you jump into building one. There is a lot of stuff about these engines on the internet especially YouTube that is total BS. One thing for sure if you buy a core engine make sure it hasn't been over bored already. Because .030 to .040 over is all they will take, unless it is sonic checked for core shift.
Don't worry about 2 bolt or 4 bolt mains, unless you are going to Daytona it doesn't matter.
Let us know what heads you are going to use and what your expectations are for HP etc. My personal favorite head is the 73, D3ZE, 4V, open chamber, small valve head. The only problem with them is getting the compression up without spending a fortune on pistons.
Keep in mind that this forum is visible to anyone with a phone or computer. Don't wait a week to follow up on a parts link, someone else may get there first.
Call these folks. In Fresno. Auto Wrecking,Classic Car Parts,Antique Auto Parts,Car Parts,Truck Parts,Turners Auto Wrecking
I have had a Cleveland or two around for 30 years. They are fantastic engines and will give you more horsepower per cubic inch than any pushrod engine Ford ever produced. You need to do a lot of research before you jump into building one. There is a lot of stuff about these engines on the internet especially YouTube that is total BS. One thing for sure if you buy a core engine make sure it hasn't been over bored already. Because .030 to .040 over is all they will take, unless it is sonic checked for core shift.
Don't worry about 2 bolt or 4 bolt mains, unless you are going to Daytona it doesn't matter.
Let us know what heads you are going to use and what your expectations are for HP etc. My personal favorite head is the 73, D3ZE, 4V, open chamber, small valve head. The only problem with them is getting the compression up without spending a fortune on pistons.
Keep in mind that this forum is visible to anyone with a phone or computer. Don't wait a week to follow up on a parts link, someone else may get there first.
.
i have a set of 70 4v closed chamber I am planning on using and idk haven’t decided on what bp I want but I want around 8/1 compression so nothing too high of compression for the street. What are some of the dos and don’t do should know
i have a set of 70 4v closed chamber I am planning on using and idk haven’t decided on what bp I want but I want around 8/1 compression so nothing too high of compression for the street. What are some of the dos and don’t do should know
You don't need to set your sights so low with the static compression. Speed Pro H555CP-30 pistons will get you a little over 9-1 static and Keith Black KB177-30's will get you a little over 10-1 static. What you need to study up on is dynamic compression that is what the engine sees when it is running.
Read thru this it is very well written and informative. Sticky #3: 351C Basics and Performance Tuning | The De Tomaso Forums (infopop.cc)
Damn straight Crop Duster the camshaft choice is critical
The overlap and centerline determine the scavenging, and the reversion
With 8:1 you are looking at 160 HP max
351 C engines were in production for 4 years, 1970 to 1973 so they made plenty of them but 1973 was a long time ago. Still I don't think that finding a usable block will be too difficult.
2 bolt or 4 bolt makes no difference and it seems like that is a mostly random feature even though supposedly all 4V engines had 4 bolt and 2v had 2 bolt. I've built quite a few Cleveland engines for Panteras and those all came with 4V engines. Some of the blocks have been 4 bolt but most have been 2 bolt.
I am not sure if I have a cleveland or not, but it was installed into a 60 f100 that i bought for the cab and bed. told me it was a good engine. if you get to deming, nm, its yours.
I am not sure if I have a cleveland or not, but it was installed into a 60 f100 that i bought for the cab and bed. told me it was a good engine. if you get to deming, nm, its yours.
The vertical fuel pump bolts would only indicate it is a 335 series engine. The 351M's and 400's have a raised reinforcing rib by the distributor, the 351C does not. Also, all 351C's had small block bell housings about 5 1/8-inch hole center on the top two bolts all the 351M's and 400's had big block bell housings except for a few very early 400's that had dual pattern blocks, but they are rare. It's difficult to see the difference between 351M's and 400's if the emission sticker or ID tag isn't on the engine but a casting date before 1975 on the block would most likely be a 400.
There are a lot of reasons Ford decided to build a 351M but the best explanation I have read is that after they stopped production of the 351C at the end of 1973 the demand for 351 cu. in. engines was greater than the Windsor plant could produce. The simplest and quickest fix was to de-stroke the 400 since it only required a few new parts and practically no new tooling.