Tuning Help needed!
Well as I mentioned... one of the "features" of a performance cam is a lumpy unstable idle with lower that stock vacuum. These can be made to work well enough with a manual trans because you either have the clutch engaged or the trans in neutral when the vehicle is stopped, but with an auto it's customary to leave it in drive all the time and it's only the torque converter slip that allows the vehicle to stay statonary with a light brake applied. But that only works with the 650rpm idle these trucks are setup with, even raising the idle speed to 800pm makes it more difficult to hold the vehicle still in gear and that is because the TC is grabbing more. The cam you have is also mismatched to the engine, the stock heads and intake become restrictive after 4000rpm while that cam is designed to make best power at higher rpms. Performance vehicles with auto transmissions often have a higher stall converter because of these cam characteristics. you could do that but now you're changing the transmission because the engine has the wrong cam in it. How does that make any sense? With a tuner you can richen the idle mixture which would help smooth it but it's very likely the idle speed would still have to rise to prevent the stalling, but that creates the other problems I mentioned above.
It has taken me several months, but yesterday, I got it to pass emissions on the first try (Very satisfying). I went from a 5.0 to a 5.8 with MAF update and a odd ball cam. It was the cam that started me down the tuning path, and while I was meandering around lost in the whole business, I ended up with a MAF as well.
Well as I mentioned... one of the "features" of a performance cam is a lumpy unstable idle with lower that stock vacuum. These can be made to work well enough with a manual trans because you either have the clutch engaged or the trans in neutral when the vehicle is stopped, but with an auto it's customary to leave it in drive all the time and it's only the torque converter slip that allows the vehicle to stay statonary with a light brake applied. But that only works with the 650rpm idle these trucks are setup with, even raising the idle speed to 800pm makes it more difficult to hold the vehicle still in gear and that is because the TC is grabbing more. The cam you have is also mismatched to the engine, the stock heads and intake become restrictive after 4000rpm while that cam is designed to make best power at higher rpms. Performance vehicles with auto transmissions often have a higher stall converter because of these cam characteristics. you could do that but now you're changing the transmission because the engine has the wrong cam in it. How does that make any sense? With a tuner you can richen the idle mixture which would help smooth it but it's very likely the idle speed would still have to rise to prevent the stalling, but that creates the other problems I mentioned above.
Yes, changing one thing because of another problem would be like bringing home another wife to fix the current… Nevermind. I’ll leave that alone. Lol
I’ve managed to find a Idle Control adjuster close by, the one you’d previously mentioned. I’ll give that a go first as a temp fix and then keep moving forward with a cam swap thereafter.
you guys have been amazing. This dad appreciates you. TY
Thank you, will do!
Lastly… is anyone here able to see the MAF meter in the pictures above? It doesn’t appear that it is there. It appears that only the MAP sensor is there. TIA
So you are probably stock except for the cam unless they did something else internal to the motor, like roller lifters or the like.
so, moving forward I am going to try the Idle Air adjustment kit, as a temp fix. Though since he doesn’t have a MAF, would it be wise to get one? Would it make sense and is it as easy as adding one?
understanding of course a cam swap is likely the best way to go.
Again, really appreciate all your help!
so, moving forward I am going to try the Idle Air adjustment kit, as a temp fix. Though since he doesn’t have a MAF, would it be wise to get one? Would it make sense and is it as easy as adding one?
understanding of course a cam swap is likely the best way to go.
Again, really appreciate all your help!
Unless you want to go down the tunning road!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!! You would have to get a new ECU that supports MAF, Then either modify your current engine harness or buy an overlay to control the injectors and modify parts of your engine bay harness., Then on to the QH and or what every you wish to tune it with then............
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
It has taken me several months, but yesterday, I got it to pass emissions on the first try (Very satisfying). I went from a 5.0 to a 5.8 with MAF update and a odd ball cam. It was the cam that started me down the tuning path, and while I was meandering around lost in the whole business, I ended up with a MAF as well.













