E4OD accumulator plungers
Everything I find online says there should be retaining clips on the plungers(which are on the other side of the accumulator body and on the other parts of the valve body to my understanding for diff stuff)
Are the clips in those ringed areas around near the end? Like, inserted from the top of the body and then its bolted up?
Just a pic of this, look ok?
My lever is bent. Just sharing.(Is it a problem)
To answer your question, it is inside the bodies. And no its not the ringed circular bump you see in your pictures that is not where the retaining clip goes.
That “bump” or series of bumps are either for the plunger or valve.
SEE BELOW PICTURE.
I rebuilt my accumulator body, lower control body and main valve body last weekend.
You also need a good set of precision tools.NO SCREWDRIVERS. You will need a variety of items you would find in a dentists office. Like metal picks of various assortments you see in my photo.
All I have to add is make sure the old o-ring seal on the filter is out of the case, sometimes it sticks. Doubled up can result in the filter not picking up fluid and no hydraulic pressure...and you go no where.
All I have to add is make sure the old o-ring seal on the filter is out of the case, sometimes it sticks. Doubled up can result in the filter not picking up fluid and no hydraulic pressure...and you go no where.
"Are the clips in those ringed areas around near the end? Like, inserted from the top of the body and then its bolted up?"
Yes, there are 'clips' - snap rings on the ends, but I don't believe that's what you're asking. Those just hold in the plugs.
Go to YouTube and look up The Transmission Bench - he has a series of E4OD videos on there of a complete tear down, including the valve/accumulator bodies. Find the one for the valve bodies, watch it and you'll understand. Alternatively order up an ASTG manual, everything your looking for is in there.
Here's the ASTG break down of the Accumulator, Main and Lower bodies. The videos will give you a much better idea of what you're into. Be careful removing the Accumulator body, if you do or did, and somehow moved the separator plate, the check ***** could have moved on you. If so, get the manual, new gaskets, etc, It will show you the location of each one, and a little tub of assembly lube to hold them in place.
Good luck with it.
All I have to add is make sure the old o-ring seal on the filter is out of the case, sometimes it sticks. Doubled up can result in the filter not picking up fluid and no hydraulic pressure...and you go no where.
Ive done trans services before albeit first on a RWD trans, and I also had Cherry Coke instead of Fruit punch which is not a good sign(torque converter is the buckets primary fluid)
But my filter was OE and was not a filter that was a TSB fix in the 96 MY so my truck came before that or at least trans, the seal also came out fine and I put a filter in and put 14.5 quarts i think after filled warmed fluid checked and then adjusted.
I used farm and fleet "dex/merc" conventional because that many quarts is a little hard right now, and being my cooler was restricted and i had fluid like this, i want to come back and do a merc v later.
I also had Type F in the trans in unknown quantity after it was filled with it like 15 years ago when it puked from gas station bottles. cenex. lol.
So I figured a clean ATF that is not gonna stay forever can flush out any more possible impurities (magnet had a good amount of clutch mud, exceeding capacity on one side of it oddly but the other wasnt)
I was trying to figure out what the plungers were, and when I did, I was concerned they had no retainer. I pushed them(the two you see) and they went in and sprung backbut the bore on one isnt the nicest for sure (maybe needs help next service?)
"Are the clips in those ringed areas around near the end? Like, inserted from the top of the body and then its bolted up?"
Yes, there are 'clips' - snap rings on the ends, but I don't believe that's what you're asking. Those just hold in the plugs.
Go to YouTube and look up The Transmission Bench - he has a series of E4OD videos on there of a complete tear down, including the valve/accumulator bodies. Find the one for the valve bodies, watch it and you'll understand. Alternatively order up an ASTG manual, everything your looking for is in there.
Here's the ASTG break down of the Accumulator, Main and Lower bodies. The videos will give you a much better idea of what you're into. Be careful removing the Accumulator body, if you do or did, and somehow moved the separator plate, the check ***** could have moved on you. If so, get the manual, new gaskets, etc, It will show you the location of each one, and a little tub of assembly lube to hold them in place.
Good luck with it.
my presumption was the shape in the accumlator body is where they are just from the top
I have a 96 e4od
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Either way, yes there are clips and they are internal. The diagram above doesn't show it the best.
Did you look up the videos? Those will show you visually how it works. You can make decision from there. I’d suggest watching all of them, especially for that area so you know what you’re getting into. I found them helpful when I did mine.
Hitmans been there more than I have, listen to him…
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Either way, yes there are clips and they are internal. The diagram above doesn't show it the best.
Did you look up the videos? Those will show you visually how it works. You can make decision from there. I’d suggest watching all of them, especially for that area so you know what you’re getting into. I found them helpful when I did mine.
Hitmans been there more than I have, listen to him…
but the reason I asked is I just found out what they were (I Have the truck put together and it works great now) but I was worried it was missing things, i had reasons to question if the pan had been off but yet the filter never serviced because 2 bolts were cross threaded. I think now it was literally assembly and they did it... lol.
do you have any tips about the torque converter dust cover, I Have the cover I had to do rust removal and paint it, but I dont have all the bolts
2 were missing, well, 1,but the one clearly was not the right bolt and just cross threaded into it. 4 in total on a i6 I think?do you know size? the threads on the remaining bolt arent the nicest
The 'clips' as you call them are in the shape of a letter 'M' as I recall, they retain the end plugs or whatever is the proper term.
These have reuseable gaskets stock, so someone else has probably been in there before as your gasket looks nothing like the OEM one off my Ford reman 4R100 or my pal's stock one. I doubt it was assembled cross threaded, but who knows.
I assume this was the type you mean, your bolts are longer, pan different, and not a cork one like mine(which is odd it was cork, it was in way better shape than it should have been. it doesnt leak. the cheap rubber one the filter came with prob not much better or worse maybe.
anyway, thats just a theory, maybe it was originally elastomeric and some ******* threw it away but I didnt see the "This pan has an elastomeric reusable gasket" raised letters on pan(ford says it should say that)
also you seem upset, im sorry, I was not trying to make you mad, Im just describing whats going on.
So at this time, no, I have not had any plans to dick with any valve bodies and I am aware of my knowledge limits on the subject.
these following are from my fwd car, not this truck
I had the strawberry milkshake before(Not coolant or water, but air)
I have had the forbidden granola
And I had the....uh...bigger pile of granola (wiped from pan in prev pic)
Sharing my limited experiences with these units. I would just go into any vehicle you have not purchased new, nor maintained since new as a huge question mark. 'Dicking' to me was my poor attempt at a shift kit install not much past when I purchased the '88 years ago. There was limited knowledge around how do DIY these things, I never heard of ATSG then, and went by the very poor Transgo instructions with the VHS. I would hope all learn from my mistake is all, as this can be very costly as it was to me then. The gasket that came off my 4R100 resembled the late SBF valve cover gaskets. Metal core with a rubberish outer layer. I pulled something off a junkyard 4R100 last year, MLPS maybe for my pal, and it had a cheapo rubber pan gasket all squirting out. Quite odd and 100% not stock as it was an 02/03 vehicle.

If the gasket you meant was like this, this is an elastomeric substrate with "O rings" that span the distance around (synthetic design ones) and there may be a metal wire to provide a stiff backing on a pan the size of these(my car pan above is my 4t65e pan which has an elastomeric, just the o rings are hard to see)
trans go hasnt gotten much better on their shift kit stuff because they sell 4t65e shift kits when most people can do what their kit does with a simple refresh on the accumulators, replacing the springs with now available replacement from gm, installing a new differential lube pipe and using dex vi and then taking battery cable off for 30 minutes, but people on the forums still go and do the shift kits then ask about harsh engagements lol
Are the clips in those ringed areas around near the end? Like, inserted from the top of the body and then its bolted up?
The two circles in your picture are plugs.
The clips (M-shaped) hold the plug in place. Yes, from the other side, must be unbolted.
If you didn't have clips, those plugs would fall out, and so would the accumulator plungers.
The clips slide into the slots on the body, and into groove of the plugs during assembly.
Here is an image that shows the clip and the retainer:
It appeared the shifter cable adjustment was cracked open a hair, so overtime it Pushed the cable toward the transmission a click here and there, which then forced that arm to slightly bend and the arm still stays in the right positions. I went and opened the adjuster clip, moved back the cable to where its not pushign the linkage away from the trans but just moving it forward and back











