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7.3 or 6.9 engine replacement

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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 09:00 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by irhunter
I would say, fuel in the IP is different that knowing fuel pressure and flow at the IP inlet. I would measure it before doing anything more drastic.

Then, I'd at least disassemble the FSS for a look over:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ia3GIpmA26w
I did pop the cap off last night and looked through it and inspected the FSS it all looked good. I didn't see debris or anything bad, and the FSS was in good shape. As for measuring pressure at the IJ inlet factory spec is 1psi at 3000 rpm. It definitely has at least 1 psi of pressure. I've cranked on it for 5-10 mins a day every day the last week. Would that not be enough to get air out of the system.

Edit: I read on another thread that the pumps can get clogged. Should I trying running seafoam or atf through it? I think I might try to empty the pump, leave the return line off and make sure fuel is getting in through the center inlet. Does that sound like a good idea?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 09:08 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Jholt55
I've cranked on it for 5-10 mins a day every day the last week. Would that not be enough to get air out of the system.
Have you cranked while a fuel line was cracked at an injector...allowing fuel to escape at the injector?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 09:10 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by irhunter
Have you cranked while a fuel line was cracked at an injector...allowing fuel to escape at the injector?
Yes, the first couple days all 8 we're cracked. That last few days only the 6 easy ones to get to. I even tried it with one all the way off yesterday and I didn't feel any pressure on the line.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 10:28 AM
  #34  
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It feels like you are rapidly moving toward pulling the IP and having it tested.

You seem to be sure you have adequate fuel volume and pressure at the IP inlet...I am less sure.

Saying the fuel pressure spec is 1 psi at 3k rpm...I do not see how that relates to the starting issue.

I think there has to be more of a spec somewhere. Pressure and volume at 800 rpm, for instance.

I do not own a manual for that pump. A quick search makes me think you need about 7 psi at 800. But, that is internet- not fact-based.

If I were you, I would look harder than I have for the pump manual.

 
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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 11:57 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by irhunter
It feels like you are rapidly moving toward pulling the IP and having it tested.

You seem to be sure you have adequate fuel volume and pressure at the IP inlet...I am less sure.

Saying the fuel pressure spec is 1 psi at 3k rpm...I do not see how that relates to the starting issue.

I think there has to be more of a spec somewhere. Pressure and volume at 800 rpm, for instance.

I do not own a manual for that pump. A quick search makes me think you need about 7 psi at 800. But, that is internet- not fact-based.

If I were you, I would look harder than I have for the pump manual.
This is where I got the 1psi from.

 
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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 09:32 PM
  #36  
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I hope someone shows up here who knows more about your IP than I do!

I wonder if you should start a new thread about this one problem--no fuel to injectors. You might attract a better crowd.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2022 | 03:16 PM
  #37  
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It Runs

I got the truck running, it turned out the internals of the injection pump where bad. I got a remanufactured unit and it instantly bleed the air out. There are still many fires to put out though, one being the heater core. What size treads are the barb fittings for the heater hoses? I need to get a new one that goes on the water pump. The big long one.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2022 | 08:07 PM
  #38  
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Where should the temp sit?

My temp gauge never gets past the beginning of O in normal, is that normal (I live in north Eastern Kansas average daily temp right now is 35-45 degrees). The heater is only every warm not hot, and I put in a new heater core. I used a factory motorcraft 190 t-stat is there a chance it's an issue? Should I go for a higher temp stat?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2022 | 01:09 AM
  #39  
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use one of these Infrared Heat guns and check various places
on the engine to see how hot it s getting.
HF has them also.

Amazon Amazon

My 86 with 331K miles usually points to the R on normal.
The gauges on these trucks are not real accurate.

You could have some debris in the Blower (Mice nest) or
clogging the fins on the Heater core.
Also all the air goes through the AC Evaporator and the fins
on it can be clogged also.

Your Blend Air door inside the heat box may not be working,
and letting in cold air.


Goat
 
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Old Nov 23, 2022 | 07:41 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Charmalu
use one of these Infrared Heat guns and check various places
on the engine to see how hot it s getting.
HF has them also.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lase...00837ZGRY?th=1

My 86 with 331K miles usually points to the R on normal.
The gauges on these trucks are not real accurate.

You could have some debris in the Blower (Mice nest) or
clogging the fins on the Heater core.
Also all the air goes through the AC Evaporator and the fins
on it can be clogged also.

Your Blend Air door inside the heat box may not be working,
and letting in cold air.


Goat
I have a temp gun, but it's decided to miss place itself when I need it. Once it's found I'll check temperatures. I was able to get the heater working though, the core was leaking so I replaced it and cleaned out the box. A large chunk of cardboard and some wire crimps where holding the door open. It still leaking some cold air in, but I believe that's just age on the seal and I'm not sure how to fix that issue. Otherwise works good and will run my out of the cab after 15-20 minutes of driving.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2022 | 07:58 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Jholt55
It still leaking some cold air in, but I believe that's just age on the seal and I'm not sure how to fix that issue. Otherwise works good and will run my out of the cab after 15-20 minutes of driving.
I've never disassembled the airbox on my Bullnose truck, but you may be able to replace the aging seals with generic adhesive weatherstripping you can get at the hardware store.

Good to hear you got her running though.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2022 | 10:35 AM
  #42  
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Here are a few links I saved about the heat system and repairs.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-needed-3.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oor-hinge.html

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/hvac-systems.html

New seals.
https://www.detroitmuscletechnologie...uild-seal-kit/


Charlie
 
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Old Dec 7, 2022 | 08:46 PM
  #43  
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Issues

I've got major issues.
the truck is loosing prime somehow, it runs then dies then it cranks forever before starting. Now today it started surging then would go back to normal driving. Then it devolved a dead miss on at least one cylinder, and started shaking violently. What the heck is wrong it's got a remanufactured injection pump on it? I don't think it's out of fuel the guage is still at 1/4 tank.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2022 | 09:34 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Jholt55
I've got major issues.
the truck is loosing prime somehow, it runs then dies then it cranks forever before starting. Now today it started surging then would go back to normal driving. Then it devolved a dead miss on at least one cylinder, and started shaking violently. What the heck is wrong it's got a remanufactured injection pump on it? I don't think it's out of fuel the guage is still at 1/4 tank.
If your truck has the setup where the fuel line in the tank has a plastic "foot" on it, the foot can eventually fall off, causing you to run out of fuel with the tank 1/4 full.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2022 | 07:58 PM
  #45  
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Alright I put 5 gallons in the truck. Runs like a top, zero issues. I'm guessing that foot in the tank is broken off, so for now on I'm keeping the truck above 1/4 tank. Happy it seems to have been a simple fix.
 
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