7.3 or 6.9 engine replacement
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 149
Likes: 21
From: NE Kansas
I got the engine ordered a long with a long list of parts. I've started looking into the process and timing has me concerned. I get that the gear will only slot into the injection pump one way, and there are marks on the gears. But what has me confused is the position of the pistons or crank. Do I need to set #1 TDC or something? No threads I've found really explain it, they always just say to static time it with the lines but leave the crank position out of it. What am I missing here?
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 854
Likes: 49
From: Maine
I got the engine ordered a long with a long list of parts. I've started looking into the process and timing has me concerned. I get that the gear will only slot into the injection pump one way, and there are marks on the gears. But what has me confused is the position of the pistons or crank. Do I need to set #1 TDC or something? No threads I've found really explain it, they always just say to static time it with the lines but leave the crank position out of it. What am I missing here?
Are you using a shop manual for the reinstall?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 149
Likes: 21
From: NE Kansas
I have a Haynes manual for the 6.9/7.3 Diesel. It didn't really answer my question, just says to line up the Y mark on the cam gear with the mark on the pump gear. I really just want to understand how the pump works better. Is it always hitting all 8 cylinders with full? Because if I don't have to time it to cylinder 1 I don't see how it would know which cylinder to fire individually.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 149
Likes: 21
From: NE Kansas
Could anyone send in some photos of there power steering and ac compressor area. I have the shop manual but I'm still confused on how it all goes back together. Any photos would be appreciated.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 149
Likes: 21
From: NE Kansas
Farm fixed electric system....
Hey guys, I got the engine fully put together and the batteries hooked up but I'm now having issues with the electric system. First off the key doesn't work at all, I turn it on dash lights or anything. It also doesn't spring back and gets stuck locked in even if I press the release button. I believe this to be the actuator arm, but I wanted to know if that being broken could cause absolutely zero power to anything? Also I plugged the battery in and the glow plugs are stuck on, it doesn't matter if the key is In the ignition or not. What would cause that, and would they be destroyed if left on for a minute or 2, and should they be at 10 volts or 12? Mine were at 10.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,198
From: Mojave, Ca
Oh geez. Yah. You got some problems. What this truck underwater at some point? Stuck ignition switch usually indicate the ignition switch is broken. You gotta pull off the bottom of the steering wheel and replace the switch assembly, and clean everything up well. It's a common problem when these trucks hit 30 years old and could also be the reason why you're not getting any lights or power.
Is the fuses under the hood and by the driver's knee getting any power? That'll tell you if your fuseable link and wiring harness is intact.
Yes, 2 minutes of constant-on glowplugs can damage them and burn them out. But it's easy to do a continuity check with a test light and see if they're still good. Are they Motorcraft Beau plugs, or some aftermarket plugs? Anything not Motorcraft Beau have a tendency of swelling up and getting stuck in the heads, requiring head removal.
Is the fuses under the hood and by the driver's knee getting any power? That'll tell you if your fuseable link and wiring harness is intact.
Yes, 2 minutes of constant-on glowplugs can damage them and burn them out. But it's easy to do a continuity check with a test light and see if they're still good. Are they Motorcraft Beau plugs, or some aftermarket plugs? Anything not Motorcraft Beau have a tendency of swelling up and getting stuck in the heads, requiring head removal.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 149
Likes: 21
From: NE Kansas
Oh geez. Yah. You got some problems. What this truck underwater at some point? Stuck ignition switch usually indicate the ignition switch is broken. You gotta pull off the bottom of the steering wheel and replace the switch assembly, and clean everything up well. It's a common problem when these trucks hit 30 years old and could also be the reason why you're not getting any lights or power.
Is the fuses under the hood and by the driver's knee getting any power? That'll tell you if your fuseable link and wiring harness is intact.
Yes, 2 minutes of constant-on glowplugs can damage them and burn them out. But it's easy to do a continuity check with a test light and see if they're still good. Are they Motorcraft Beau plugs, or some aftermarket plugs? Anything not Motorcraft Beau have a tendency of swelling up and getting stuck in the heads, requiring head removal.
Is the fuses under the hood and by the driver's knee getting any power? That'll tell you if your fuseable link and wiring harness is intact.
Yes, 2 minutes of constant-on glowplugs can damage them and burn them out. But it's easy to do a continuity check with a test light and see if they're still good. Are they Motorcraft Beau plugs, or some aftermarket plugs? Anything not Motorcraft Beau have a tendency of swelling up and getting stuck in the heads, requiring head removal.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 149
Likes: 21
From: NE Kansas
I figured out the key issue the ignition switch has become two pieces. The glow plug controler was wired wrong so that what was wrong with it. Now onto my next issue. I can't get this truck to get fuel to the injectors. It has fuel at the filter and when i hit the schrader valve it spits some out (although not very pressurized), I did fill the filter full before trying to bleed the system. But I am not getting any fuel leaking out around the injectors. I have a 12v wire ran to the fuel shut off, which is the big led on the IP driver side, and I had it WOT while cranking it over. What is wrong here, I put 2.5 gallons of fuel in each tank to make sure it would have diesel. Any suggestions?
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 854
Likes: 49
From: Maine
I can't get this truck to get fuel to the injectors. It has fuel at the filter and when i hit the schrader valve it spits some out (although not very pressurized), I did fill the filter full before trying to bleed the system. But I am not getting any fuel leaking out around the injectors. Any suggestions?
If it is low, you then run a hose from the lift pump inlet to a bucket of clean fuel. Measure pressure again.
Roy
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 149
Likes: 21
From: NE Kansas
Alright the IP has plenty of fuel, I pull the top off and it's full. I also found a leak in the line that was feeding the lift pump and fixed that. The fuel shut off clicks on and off, but I am still getting absolutely nothing to the injectors. This pump sat on the truck while parked for and only ran 5 years ago. Could the pump be bad?
I pulled a line all the way off and injector. Not a drop of fuel could be seen.
I pulled a line all the way off and injector. Not a drop of fuel could be seen.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 854
Likes: 49
From: Maine
I would say, fuel in the IP is different that knowing fuel pressure and flow at the IP inlet. I would measure it before doing anything more drastic.
Then, I'd at least disassemble the FSS for a look over:
Then, I'd at least disassemble the FSS for a look over: