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Check for continuity for the two circuits shown below. Each should measure near a "dead short" just as if you touched your probe leads together. Make sure the ohmmeter is on its lowest scale if not auto-ranging.
If either (or both) shows excessive resistance, repair that wire.
If both measure "good" and the cumulative resistance of relay pin 87 to ground with the clutch coil connected is still over 20 ohms, then the coil is probably bad.
Thank you for trying to help me. I am embarrassed to say this, but I have looked at this several times today. I am not smart enough to read it. It looks like pin 87 , which I know where that one is to 1 on the clutch solenoid? The other one looks like a circuit coming back out of the solenoid? I am searching for a place to read and get a better understanding of trying to read the diagram and information you have provided. Hopefully I can get a better understanding within the next couple days. and respond to your directions above. Pleas don't think I'm ignoring or don't appreciate the help. I need to get a better education for myself. I will post back if I can figure out what I need to do.
Thank you
The connector at the clutch coil has two wires, one is black (BK) and goes to ground and the other is gray with a white stripe (GY/WH) and goes back to pin 87 of the relay's socket.
Each is supposed to be a direct wire connection and should measure zero ohms or, perhaps, a small fraction of an ohm.
This was the ohm reading from the female pin of pin 87 to the end of the gy/wh wire plug end that plugs into the coil. This was with the key off and no jumper wire from 30 to 87.It does have 12v at the end of this wire when jumped direct from pin 30 to 87.
Thank you. With 12v to the coil plug would you start with trying to find a problem in the black wire or is that irrelevant?
Thank you for trying to walk me through this
I'm sorry..I don't understand where the other end of the black wire on the coil plug grounds to. I see 2 black wires going into the box were the relay is. If that is the correct area ?
I have a 2004 f250 Super Duty and no A/C. Went through this post and it helped narrow things down. Checked relay and it is good. With engine off jumped from pins 87 to 30 and clutch engages. I got a can of refrigerant and hooked it up and gauge went to red. I'm thinking cutoff switch is preventing compressor from turning due to low refrigerant or oil. Off to check the oil level.
I had an A/C problem I just fixed today 07/21/2023. Most of these threads are a year old, but they helped. My A/C clutch would not energize and engage. I found that many codes to the PCM can cause problems with the A/C. Such as a PO357 code (G coil or cylinder number 7 in my case), A Primary/Secondary coil failure. Caused by a plugged in but not so tight connector. Or Slight Engine Over heat condition at the same time while pulling a 10,000 lb + load. Which can cause higher RPMs that can also signal the PCM to shut down the A/C. Misfire, High heat over rev.
110 degree day, Bouncing through a hay pasture with hay starting to reduce air flow through the radiator, jostling a coil pack connection loose. The A/C condenser which is in front of the Radiator looked clean, but pieces of hay blocked the front of the radiator and unless you look behind the A/C Condenser coil you can not see and will not notice it.
The PCM will shut down the A/C for a Cylinder misfire and an engine over heat signal or over rev. The A/C High pressure and Low Pressure switches do not directly activate the A/C clutch coil. They send a signal to the PCM, the PCM closes a ground in the PCM that energizes the A/C relay, closing the contacts completing the A/C Clutch Coil circuit. But other signals from other things can also prevent the PCM from closing the A/C Relay coil circuit.
A/C not working,it may not be an A/C problem. The info and diagrams on here are very helpful.
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