1964 F100 223 6 cylinder. Hasn't been run in 7 years

Finally got the truck home yesterday and began the process of trying to get it started. Pulled plugs, sprayed lubricant down the holes, put water in radiator, did a remote gas tank set up, etc. I then cranked it over (no plugs in it) to get things moving and all looked good except spark. No spark. Checked all the usual suspects and determined it had a bad coil. Got a new coil first thing this morning and the truck started on the first lick. Upon starting I had a belt squealing and immediately shut it down. Turns out the water pump is semi frozen up. After my initial success I wasn't about to let that stop me, so I disconnected the belt and started it back up to let it build some temp hoping that might help loosen the WP. I was closely monitoring it with my heat gun. Again, the truck ran (idled) perfectly and started at the flip of the key. I shut it down, did the touchdown dance and went on to other things on the punch list while it cooled down. Hour later I start it back up (again first lick) and it is running perfectly. This time I gave it some RPM to see what it sounded like. On the first RPM run it was perfect, on the second run it died, sounded like a loss of spark.
Sure enough, it was and after some checking I seem to have lost another coil.
After checking a few items, the wire from the negative side of the coil to the points had intermittent continuity. I have sense replaced that wire but I don't want to keep throwing 45 dollar coils at it.
Does anyone know if losing the ground will cause a coil to fry? Is there something else I should be looking at? Has anyone else experienced repeated coil failure on one of these trucks?
Thanks in advance,
Ken

 

Just out of curiosity I would check the voltage on the + side of the coil while it’s running.
and I went thru a couple coils due to heat, best I could tell. Laying on the intake manifold top of the v8 engine.

 

Some coils have to be vertical and can't be mounted horizontal.

 

Losing the connection to the distributor will not damage the coil the engine will just not run. That coil should not have gone bad that fast even if it was getting a full 12V. That is if it was made in the USA.

 

Are there ANY parts made in the USA? Got a list of the ones you know? might make it easier for those who want the good stuff...

 

Thanks for the replies. I have 2 new coils coming friday and will resume the battle and post results.
- Not sure as to voltage to coil when running, will check it Friday. However I would bet it is less than 12 volts as my test light was dim when I checked while running.
- Coil is mounted in the vertical position
- Good to know that losing ground shouldn't damamge coil. Not sure where made. The new ones I ordered are Standard Motor Products brand. Alledgedly made in USA
I have a sense that there is more to this story. In my life I think I have had maybe 2 coils go bad. I think there is something in the sytem that is killing coils.
Results to come

 

The voltage to the coil should be 4.5 to 6.6 volts. If it is more or less your resistor wire may be bad or you have a bad ignition switch. When you check the voltage to the coil you need the coil in the circuit. Disconnect the + side of the coil and put your voltmeter between that wire and the coil. Disconnect the distributor side of the coil and put a wire from that terminal to a good ground. Then turn on the ignition and read the voltage.

 

Cropduster, dot me on ignore do ya'

 

Simple! Do an advanced search using NumberDummy since he posted about every part number that you can imagine at one time or another.
Use the search results= B6A-12029-B .. 12V Coil (Motorcraft DG-5).
1956/73 all FoMoCo vehicles, 1974/75 all FoMoCo vehicles except with DuraSpark electronic ignition.

Go to e-bay or any of the NOS parts sellers and NOS 1957 - 1973 FORD V8 IGNITION COIL REPLACES YELLOW TOP B7AZ-12029-A DG-5 RARE | eBay
or Ford Motorcraft D3AF-109-AA 12 Volt, Use w/ External Resistor/ DG -5 B6A-12029-B | eBay
Buy one..
The problem with parts for a points ignition and a lot of other older type electrical parts is there isn't enough of a market to support making them. Kinda like hydraulic lifters they need to sell multiple thousands to be profitable. So they get made where English isn't their first language and we get to pay the price.