After spraying with penetrant yesterday, I tried removing my dually wheel spacers today using a 21mm socket, a socket extension, and my battery powered impact wrench. Not one of the eight nuts even budged. I applied more penetrant this evening and will try again in the morning.

I was hoping someone could let me know what I might be up against, as well as what the torque specs are to reattach the spacer.

I have a breaker bar but I noticed the hub (I hope that’s the right term) turns so I’m curious about blocking the wheel so it doesn’t turn.

The reason I’m trying to remove the wheel spacer is I’d like to remove the locking hubs (for removal, cleaning and possibly replacement).

I’m also open to someone saying this job is better left to a professional. I can turn a wrench and follow instructions but have limited experience working on vehicles.

 

Put a screwdriver in the rotor fins and the caliper bracket will keep it from turning when you loosen the nuts.

Do the same from the other end of the rotor when you go back together...140 ft.lbs.

 

They don't look rusted in place like they would up here so they should let loose. A shot with acetylene torch shouldn't hurt but I wouldn't go right to cherry red on them. That's if you have one.

 

Getting a stubborn nut nice and hot will absolutely cause it to loosen up enough to be able to easily remove it. But then you have to replace it because it lost it's temper.

 

Thank you. The penetrating oil helped get the nuts out and solid (but not crazy) taps with a brass hammer got the spacer to release.

The locking hub is out and seems like it might be something I can clean.

 

Here is the link to the service on the ESOF hub.

Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page

Wish I would have thought of the screwdriver trick for holding the rotor when I did mine.

 

Thank you.

I installed the Mile Marker 449SS on the passenger side although Y2K… suggested I stay with the OEM. I’ll clean up the OEMs and will have a spare on the shelf.

on reinstallation I wire brushed everything and coated the relevant surfaces with anti-seize. Not sure how that affects the torque specs but I’ll check on the torque settings in a few months.




Driver’s side is up next.

 

I've used a crow bar in the lugs onto the ground when the need arose.

 

Yup. That’s what I did.

 

With my kind of luck, if I put a bar through the studs, the stud threads would get damaged.

The screwdriver trick is quick and convenient, as long as the rotors are in good condition and not already checked with superficial spidering from heat.

Heat checked rotors might be scheduled for replacement, but might still be serviceable for a short while, unless the spidering catches a fingernail when felt.

But once a radial crack appears, the rotor should be immediately replaced... and I wouldn't want to apply leverage against the outside diameter of the rotor that could be the final straw that accelerates a heat checked rotor toward opening up into a radial crack... until I had the funds ready to immediately replace that rotor, in the unlikely event that should ever happen.







The three photos above are not mine, and were found on the internet to illustrate the concern.

The photo below is mine, and shows yet another method of stopping rotation while torquing the wheel adapter.

For the lighter duty adapters without stiffening ribs, the steel bar can be placed against the casting rosettes of the fastener lands.



With good solid rotors, however, the screwdriver in the vane slot is more efficient.

 

Screwdriver is easier all the way around. I just didn't think of that. Those lugs were glaring at me, asking for a crow bar.

 

For next time, I would recommend using a grease needle to lube the axle shaft bearing (center of unit bearing) while locking hub was out.

Remove axle shaft snap ring and thrust washers, then pump grease into space between axle shaft and hub.

 

All these creative ways for removing the spacer adapter. For me it was a real time saver to just use the 1/2 inch impact wrench. Eight Ugga Duggas later, it was off and out of the way.

 

The spacer adapter will still need to be reinstalled... and then torqued to specification.

Are there any "Torque Sticks", either stubby or regular, that can thread through the fastener access holes in the adapter or clear the rotor hub face on the inswing?

If not, then at some point, the rotor will need to be kept from rotating with the force applied or verified by a torque wrench having a conventional extension and socket that can be assembled and disassembled through each fastener hole.

My favorite FTE thread title of all time was posted by a member in the '17 up Super Duty forum last year, around when Ford "forgot" (more likely, a manufacturing process failure by Dana, the axle supplier) to torque the front wheel adapters of a production run of 2021 DRW Super Duty pickups and chassis cabs. You Picked A Fine Time To Leave Me Loose Wheel...

Ford did eventually issue a recall to address the problem... 2021 Ford F-Series Super Duty Recall # 21S26 because front wheels could fall off

The point being... achieving and verifying torque on those adapters is a thing. Just as professional tire center chain stores have now established corporate policies (likely to reduce exposure to negligence claims) that require tire techs to use torque wrenches, not just torque sticks, to verify the final fastening torque of wheels... the wheel adapters deserve the same respect. Otherwise, they might leave... just like Lucille did.

 

My torque spec on a bolt like that is up snug+1/8 to 1/4 turn, depending on how it feels.