Radiator trans cooler bypass
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Radiator trans cooler bypass
Im having to bypass my radiator for trans cooler for now... long story, but would there be any issue putting a minor flare on the bare line and then pushing proper hose on with fuel injection clamps
By chance, which one is the send line, the top line?
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no matter.
the radiator has a seep somewhere anyway, and the inside wasn’t very confidence building(I am flushing coolant).
since I have a external cooler, nice sized one, I’m going to pipe my trans cooler to that. I need to replace the radiator , so I’m thinking before winter it will be a good time to do another flush and new radiator then I can have my end tank cooler for winter to warm trans.
i also got a lot of weird black stuff come out the top line when I shot a little air at the tube. And then fluid came quick lol.
also I figured my hose is all 3/8 and the lines are 5/16. So I’m going to cut it a little lower, flare it, and use 2 fuel injection clamps and that should be okay since it’s the return anyway.
also gonna do trans fluid and filter
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: SE Florida
I have tested this in temperatures as cold as -40°F. I had thermocouples in the trans line into and out of the radiator cooler. I had another thermocouple inside the radiator near the trans cooler. I never found a condition where the coolant was warmer than the ATF. And it wasn't even close.
The trans cooler is in the cold side of the radiator. In cold weather, this side of the radiator stays near ambient temperature. So if it is 30°F outside, it may be 35-40°F near the trans cooler. How well will this warm the trans fluid? If it gets to -40°F outside, and I have tested vehicles colder than that, the trans cooler will not see temps much above -30°F. That doesn't help warm the trans at all.
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Warm the trans? It's a cooler, not a heater. In no way does the radiator cooler warm the trans.
I have tested this in temperatures as cold as -40°F. I had thermocouples in the trans line into and out of the radiator cooler. I had another thermocouple inside the radiator near the trans cooler. I never found a condition where the coolant was warmer than the ATF. And it wasn't even close.
The trans cooler is in the cold side of the radiator. In cold weather, this side of the radiator stays near ambient temperature. So if it is 30°F outside, it may be 35-40°F near the trans cooler. How well will this warm the trans fluid? If it gets to -40°F outside, and I have tested vehicles colder than that, the trans cooler will not see temps much above -30°F. That doesn't help warm the trans at all.
I have tested this in temperatures as cold as -40°F. I had thermocouples in the trans line into and out of the radiator cooler. I had another thermocouple inside the radiator near the trans cooler. I never found a condition where the coolant was warmer than the ATF. And it wasn't even close.
The trans cooler is in the cold side of the radiator. In cold weather, this side of the radiator stays near ambient temperature. So if it is 30°F outside, it may be 35-40°F near the trans cooler. How well will this warm the trans fluid? If it gets to -40°F outside, and I have tested vehicles colder than that, the trans cooler will not see temps much above -30°F. That doesn't help warm the trans at all.
Is it a myth then that a radiator trans cooler helps warm up the trans in cold (as well as cool it) and is this true with all or most applications?
I suppose where the end tank is may be big part of that?
So, if I dont have a trans cooler in the end tank attached to my E4OD, when its -30F i wont be keeping it too cold? (assuming I blocked the air flow from the front of the cooler I am putting in)
If so, oh cool, thanks I appreciate that knowledge. if more nuanced I will wait for what you have to say
Also, what kind of pressures are on the return loop for the small OEM cooler lines for E4OD do you know? I have good clamps and I have a 11/32 hose but even with a flare I feel I may need to get another size. if the pressure isnt high, I will probably install as is then buy more and swap it
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: SE Florida
Yes, it is a myth that the radiator cooler is also a heater. And you're right, it is due to the location in the cold side of the radiator. If you don't have a radiator cooler in the winter your trans will be warmer than if you had the radiator cooler connected.
The cooler lines can see up to 60 PSI.
The cooler lines can see up to 60 PSI.
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Yes, it is a myth that the radiator cooler is also a heater. And you're right, it is due to the location in the cold side of the radiator. If you don't have a radiator cooler in the winter your trans will be warmer than if you had the radiator cooler connected.
The cooler lines can see up to 60 PSI.
The cooler lines can see up to 60 PSI.
on the send, I have a even shorter length of rigid sunsong cooler hose with nice flare on the OEM side to slide over and then fuel injection clamp and then a nice barb to push on the other side. I just finished blasting rust and crud out of my cooling system, letting things dry so I can put hoses on and start putting coolant in. may save trans fluid till tomorrow definitely need to add some if i drive anywhere
Does KAM have to be reset for a trans fluid and filter service? I have my battery out for this stuff anyway but figured ask. it would be for GM (tap clear)
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Frmr Ford Trans Engr
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From: SE Florida
There is no KAM related to the E4OD. That started a few years after the E4OD was out of production,
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So I dont know what kind of seal the 96 has, but the new gasket with the filter I bought is a cheapo rubber one. Im just not even entertaining that as valid.
I Hope the one on the truck is an elastomeric reusable because RTV otherwise lmao? I do have ATF rtv but still
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I havent done the fluid and filter yet but I could tell already there is a lot different in how it acts and im thinking my thoughts about kinked lines before + debris was restricting.
with the new cooler, i got up to about 150-170 and it was decently cold when I did the driving. below that I want to start blocking the air flow through that, right?
Also, I have a seeming issue with the coast clutch now. When moving in like town, at 25. if i press it you can feel a slighttttt drag. I am confused since it worked fine not long ago, but when I had scan tool, I noticed the OD switch will "turn on " the coast clutch solenoid and it will NOT "turn off" regardless of speed or gear selection. accelerating. braking. it and the TCC solenoid can both be on while cruising, if i hit OD switch ill go into 4th and the coast clutch solenoid turns off
in the FSM data for 96, to me, the chart was suggesting the coast clutch solenoid will be off for the right reason, like accelerating.
Or is this PID saying on just mean that its able to work, and if im accelerating it wouldnt be engaged(its one way clutch I think?)
We may have had encountered this before. But the low engine braking from pressing it had me stumped
with the new cooler, i got up to about 150-170 and it was decently cold when I did the driving. below that I want to start blocking the air flow through that, right?
Also, I have a seeming issue with the coast clutch now. When moving in like town, at 25. if i press it you can feel a slighttttt drag. I am confused since it worked fine not long ago, but when I had scan tool, I noticed the OD switch will "turn on " the coast clutch solenoid and it will NOT "turn off" regardless of speed or gear selection. accelerating. braking. it and the TCC solenoid can both be on while cruising, if i hit OD switch ill go into 4th and the coast clutch solenoid turns off
in the FSM data for 96, to me, the chart was suggesting the coast clutch solenoid will be off for the right reason, like accelerating.
Or is this PID saying on just mean that its able to work, and if im accelerating it wouldnt be engaged(its one way clutch I think?)
We may have had encountered this before. But the low engine braking from pressing it had me stumped
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: SE Florida
Also, I have a seeming issue with the coast clutch now. When moving in like town, at 25. if i press it you can feel a slighttttt drag. I am confused since it worked fine not long ago, but when I had scan tool, I noticed the OD switch will "turn on " the coast clutch solenoid and it will NOT "turn off" regardless of speed or gear selection. accelerating. braking. it and the TCC solenoid can both be on while cruising, if i hit OD switch ill go into 4th and the coast clutch solenoid turns off
The on and off operation that you are describing is how it is supposed to work. When OD is turned off the coast clutch is on. When OD is enabled, no matter what gear the trans is in, the coast clutch is off.
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I've never blocked mine until the ambient get below freezing.
I don't know how the coast clutch could cause drag when power on. When coasting it connects the output shaft to the input shaft to that the engine can provide braking. It doesn't cause any braking force itself.
The on and off operation that you are describing is how it is supposed to work. When OD is turned off the coast clutch is on. When OD is enabled, no matter what gear the trans is in, the coast clutch is off.
That's not how I remember it.
I don't know how the coast clutch could cause drag when power on. When coasting it connects the output shaft to the input shaft to that the engine can provide braking. It doesn't cause any braking force itself.
The on and off operation that you are describing is how it is supposed to work. When OD is turned off the coast clutch is on. When OD is enabled, no matter what gear the trans is in, the coast clutch is off.
That's not how I remember it.
Huh, when I checked before I didnt remember seeingthe footnote rip lol
Sounds like my assumption thenthat the PCM would basically have say even if somehow it could be hurt.
To be honest tho, is it possible for the coast clutrch engagement to not be perceivable? Or is it maybe it not allowed to be set with transmission under a temp? because when I said I barely could tell im saying I use to be able to tell no matter what basically to not be able to tell for a long time and even then only listening to the noises going on to verify multiple times that the slight sensation was me pressing the button and not a road thing lol.
The only other thing I can think of that may be a factor was something to do with a throttle cable but i wont spin that theory since im not very confident in that lol
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
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From: SE Florida
I don't think I have ever been able to feel the coast clutch engagement. I can tell when it's on because when it is on there is engine braking on gears 1, 2, and 3. With it off there is zero engine braking in those gears. There is always engine braking in fourth gear.