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Regarding my 1993 f150 5.8/e4od I was using it to push another f150 around my property and after about 15-20 minutes the brakes were starting to lock up and wouldn't allow the truck to move at all without ALOT of throttle. I finally just turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. When I came back out everything was normal. This has happened on 2 separate occasions. The first time no lights or anything on the dash. The second time the abs and brake lights came on as it was getting to the point it wouldn't move.
Tried pulling codes and it didn't show any. Let it sit again for 45 minutes and all was normal and the lights were off. Any ideas what the heck is going on? Another member suggested the module on the frame??
Is there anyway to successfully delete the rabs system? Remove the module?? Bypass the sensor in the rear? What affect would that have on the speedometer? Thanks for any input!
Tried pulling codes and it didn't show any. Let it sit again for 45 minutes and all was normal and the lights were off. Any ideas what the heck is going on? Another member suggested the module on the frame??
Is there anyway to successfully delete the rabs system? Remove the module?? Bypass the sensor in the rear? What affect would that have on the speedometer? Thanks for any input!
The ABS is not tied into the engine computer. Did you try to pull the codes from the ECM/PCM connector or the RABS connector?
Yes, you can bypass the system. I don’t know how or why the brakes were engaged while you are pushing another truck so I’m not sure how deleting the system would make a difference.
The ABS is not tied into the engine computer. Did you try to pull the codes from the ECM/PCM connector or the RABS connector?
Yes, you can bypass the system. I don’t know how or why the brakes were engaged while you are pushing another truck so I’m not sure how deleting the system would make a difference.
I did not check the rabs connector. Not sure how to do that, ill do some research. Every once in a while the abs/brake lights come on at random and then will just go off. But never had any issues until this. I do know my dad replaced the sensor in the rear end several different times. This was his truck.
If i do away with the rabs completely will it have any negative affect on the speedometer or transmission? Ive read that the speedometer, transmission and rear end sensor are all connected together somehow.
I’m not sure where it is for that body style. I’m sure there has to be a thread that states where it is.
Yes the sensor in the rear differential is used for multiple things but you wouldn’t be removing the sensor. If the problem is in the sensor or wiring then you might still have a problem with the speedometer/ transmission which is why you need to determine what is wrong.
I’m not sure where it is for that body style. I’m sure there has to be a thread that states where it is.
Yes the sensor in the rear differential is used for multiple things but you wouldn’t be removing the sensor. If the problem is in the sensor or wiring then you might still have a problem with the speedometer/ transmission which is why you need to determine what is wrong.
The module is on the frame drivers side. I don't have any speedo issues other than it being off a little from larger tires. The transmission is rebuilt, maybe 300 miles if that. Don't have any issues with that either other than this. Not sure if this is "normal" for these trucks ot not. But sometimes when i put it in reverse it will clunk pretty hard. Others its butter smooth and dont even feel it. It occasionally will do the same thing on the 2-3 shift. But most times thats super smooth as well. And it does either at random. The transmission doesn't throw any codes either.
The module is on the frame drivers side. I don't have any speedo issues other than it being off a little from larger tires. The transmission is rebuilt, maybe 300 miles if that. Don't have any issues with that either other than this. Not sure if this is "normal" for these trucks ot not. But sometimes when i put it in reverse it will clunk pretty hard. Others its butter smooth and dont even feel it. It occasionally will do the same thing on the 2-3 shift. But most times thats super smooth as well. And it does either at random. The transmission doesn't throw any codes either.
do a reverse stop hard on pavement a few times. anything change? also, are radius arm bushings looking ok?
Is your 2-3 or reverse shift by chance also occur with high idle/engine speeds?
No. The Hydraulic Control Unit is on the frame rail. I was saying I didn’t know where the test connector is located so I did a thread search
Oh ok i gotcha. Thank you. Appreciate that. I didnt know you could test that. My satellite internet is a real pain sometimes trying to search for things. Thanks again!!
do a reverse stop hard on pavement a few times. anything change? also, are radius arm bushings looking ok?
Is your 2-3 or reverse shift by chance also occur with high idle/engine speeds?
Radius bushings look ok from a visual inspection. I will try the hard reverse braking. I assume thats to adjust the drum brakes correct? The shifting is something I cannot find a reason why. It seems to do it at random. The idle is always high when cold start (as it should be) and sometimes it will clunk and others like butter. Can't figure it out
Radius bushings look ok from a visual inspection. I will try the hard reverse braking. I assume thats to adjust the drum brakes correct? The shifting is something I cannot find a reason why. It seems to do it at random. The idle is always high when cold start (as it should be) and sometimes it will clunk and others like butter. Can't figure it out
sounds like you have a high idle, does it clunk on down shifts like 2 to 1 especially ever?
also, the reverse is helpful for the brakes I guess but i was worried about bind and suspension but the shock anbd the adjsutment shouldnt hurt. front axles unlock or they auto?
Wow thank you so much!! That would have taken me forever to find! You have been a big help. If I understand what you said earlier (if I decide to do so). I can delete the rabs system but must leave the sensor in the rear end? So I could delete the part in the frame and the module and as long as the sensor in the rear end is there, won't have any adverse affects on the transmission/speedo and just throw the abs light on? Thanks again for the time you have taken!
Yes. You can bypass the HCU on the frame rai but the sensor in the rear differential has to be there for the speedometer and E4OD/ 4R70W transmission (if applicable). I added an adjustable proportioning valve in my ‘87 but I also converted to disk brakes and a 9” Ford axle. As far as removing the module, don’t think that is necessary. You could remove the bulb in the dash so it isn’t always illuminated. I would try to figure out what is wrong before removing anything.
Yes. You can bypass the HCU on the frame rai but the sensor in the rear differential has to be there for the speedometer and E4OD/ 4R70W transmission (if applicable). I added an adjustable proportioning valve in my ‘87 but I also converted to disk brakes and a 9” Ford axle. As far as removing the module, don’t think that is necessary. You could remove the bulb in the dash so it isn’t always illuminated. I would try to figure out what is wrong before removing anything.
That is exactly what I am going to do, try and see what's going on first. Again many thanks for all your help and time with this. It's greatly appreciated!
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