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I’m still struggling with ping. I need to make sure I’m using the right place on the fixed tang when I time the engine. In the picture, you can see the circle that sits over the crank marks. I’ve been placing the 8 degrees BTC at the top of that that tang—you can just see the top. Is this the right place? Or should I be using the inside of the circle or below the circle? 351W engine 1982 F350
Look around a little bit more, all my engines have a sharp pointer to set the timing. That round thing is something the factory used to set the timing on the assembly line. The pointer is more of a triangle with a sharp point.
I don't know how your engine is configured, but in some cases if the engine has been modified you will have to forget the timing light and set the timing by experimentation.
Look around a little bit more, all my engines have a sharp pointer to set the timing. That round thing is something the factory used to set the timing on the assembly line. The pointer is more of a triangle with a sharp point.
I don't know how your engine is configured, but in some cases if the engine has been modified you will have to forget the timing light and set the timing by experimentation.
Engine is stock. No pointers. Manual is vague about the fixed reference point. My truck’s tang is FLAT at the top, so I assumed it would be that.
Here's an image, shamelessly stolen from eBay, showing what the pointer looks like on my '84 351W:
I've added an arrow to show where you set the timing.
Thank you much. Mine looks similar, but the flat portion you are pointing to is MUCH closer to the circle on mine. You can just see the flat part in my picture. Mine does not look to be broken. I think I’m doing it properly.
That is pretty far off from the circle
How dose it start when hot?
Like it has a dead battery or spins right over?
What mods have been done to the motor and what smog stuff has been removed or disabled?
You have vacuum advance on the dist. and if so disconnect and plug the supply for testing.
Once you have the pining under control with out vacuum then hook it up and see what happens.
I am still making adjustments on the vacuum side on my 300 six.
No vacuum I got no pinging but I had to change springs to get it under control.
BTW I have no smog stuff on my motor. They say a working EGR helps stop pinging, I dont have a working one.
Dave ----
That is pretty far off from the circle
How dose it start when hot?
Like it has a dead battery or spins right over?
What mods have been done to the motor and what smog stuff has been removed or disabled?
You have vacuum advance on the dist. and if so disconnect and plug the supply for testing.
Once you have the pining under control with out vacuum then hook it up and see what happens.
I am still making adjustments on the vacuum side on my 300 six.
No vacuum I got no pinging but I had to change springs to get it under control.
BTW I have no smog stuff on my motor. They say a working EGR helps stop pinging, I dont have a working one.
Dave ----
Smog all gone. Aftermarket carb. Early 1982 motor. Can I drive around with the vacuum advance plugged? Sounds like I can. I only get the pinging (tinkling sound) when I lay into the throttle. Starts right up, spins free without struggle.
Last edited by Prionus; May 7, 2022 at 08:39 AM.
Reason: Forgot
Here's an image, shamelessly stolen from eBay, showing what the pointer looks like on my '84 351W:
I've added an arrow to show where you set the timing.
You fixed it! Thank you! I looked more closely at the tang and sure enough, it looks exactly like the one pictured. My timing was off by at least 20 degrees! Way too advanced! You have to visualize that mark with the timing light right by the radiator hose. It’s tight, but it was clear as day. The truck throttle is way snappier and the truck runs faster and more responsively. I had to turn the throttle up a little to get the idle set right. Thank you VERY much for that photo! You saved the day. Oh, and no more detonation!
I looked more closely at the tang and sure enough, it looks exactly like the one pictured. My timing was off by at least 20 degrees!
Um, do you realize it's considered a serious breach of forum protocol to update your thread with the fix? The typical M.O. is to start a thread, gets lots of detailed help, and then leave us all hanging with no resolution. It's not optimal, but that's how most guys seem to like doing it, judging by how often it happens...
Um, do you realize it's considered a serious breach of forum protocol to update your thread with the fix? The typical M.O. is to start a thread, gets lots of detailed help, and then leave us all hanging with no resolution. It's not optimal, but that's how most guys seem to like doing it, judging by how often it happens...
Liar liar, pants on fire. Your engine is not stock if you took the emissions off. Glad you got it running though. You can still experiment with the timing, the stock specs really don't apply anymore now you have changed the top of the engine around and have a different carb. You may even get a little more out of it if you want to try advancing the timing a little bit more.
Liar liar, pants on fire. Your engine is not stock if you took the emissions off. Glad you got it running though. You can still experiment with the timing, the stock specs really don't apply anymore now you have changed the top of the engine around and have a different carb. You may even get a little more out of it if you want to try advancing the timing a little bit more.
You are correct. I guess I was thinking of different modifications only. I should have realized that the mark was higher because I was viewing it through the bracket where the air pump was. Had that been in place, you could not have used a timing light to observe the line. You have to do it from the front. Seeing that bracket made the light bulb go on.
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