2010 F150 issue. I’ve been trying to solve a battery issue following using a video posted by Fordtechmakuloco. I have solved some of the problem, tracing a drain to a USB adapter I was using. Now, I have a constant draw at about .022 amps, which is perfect acceptable. However, I will quickly spike to about 3 times that level and just as quickly go away. It may sit there for 3-5 minutes before it spikes. I don’t see how I can find it when it goes away within 1 second. Does anyone have a suggestion as to some problem areas to search?

 

You need to identify the circuit that is causing the draw and go from there to determine the component.
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I realized that I should have said that the amp draw spikes to .150 or .160 amps. I meant 3 times the guide amps of .050.

 

Yes, I realize that. What I’m asking for is problem areas. Because the problem doesn’t seem to stick around for enough time to identify the circuit and pull the fuse, I thought it may be easier to concentrate on problem circuits and pull the fuse. Then I could monitor it to check for a future spike after that. I read a post about the Battery management system being a problem for causing dead batteries, but not sure if that would cause the intermittent spike in current draw I am seeing.

 

Trying to figure out more about the BMS and how it works…… it seems that Ford didn’t start putting them on until 2011. That leaves my truck out since it’s a 2010. Oh well, must be something else.

 

Prior to 2011 they used a GEM/SJB. Similar strategies, different hardware. No bms

 

Thank you for that input. I suspected as such, but could find any info on it. I wonder if it would benefit me to disconnect it. Maybe the same location of the connector?

 

DO you get your random "SPIKES" fairly often ? If so, you can pull the "radio" fuse and watch for an hour... Then pull the "climate( heater) fuse and watch for an hour.......... etc........ Thats how you determine the location.... Its random and time consuming for a test..

 

I hate to do that, but I guess I will if I have to. I was trying to narrow it down and maybe get lucky going for the most common problems. Based on my testing so far, it may occur a couple times per hour. I’d hate to pay the hourly rate to diagnose this😬

 

Are you getting any where with this? Something that might make it a little less painful would be if you have a digital meter with memory function, you can just check back now and then instead of standing there staring at meter all day.

 

Thank you, yes essential tool to have for this. I made some progress yesterday, I may have found the problem, but will need additional testing today to confirm. More on this later.

 

I’ve narrowed my amperage spike to fuse 5 in the kick panel. This includes keypad illumination (no key pad on my truck), brake shift interlock and the SJB microprocessor. I’m hoping for the simpler one (BSI) because the smart junction box sounds a whole lot more complicated

 

For what it's worth, I have a 2013 F150 ecoboost purchased brand new.

Fought parasitic drain from 6 months old. Ford customer service assured me there would be support beyond warranty as it had been so many instances and always handled by ford but never resolved. Few miles out of warranty, they washed their hands, as expected.

I run an optima yellow top battery. Give it a good charge every 6 months and no issues with being stranded at least.

Parasitic draw still exists but it doesn't kill my battery.

I went through the same steps as you just to realize I was chasing my tail.

If you figure it out, I will be keenly interested.

 

Sometimes the simplest fix for parasitic drain is to connect a battery maintainer when the vehicle sits more than a couple of days. Would be more satisfying not to require that, but . . .

 

^ this. I get the impression that some folks are opposed to disconnecting the BMS but I had all sorts of problems following a battery replacement until I did it. Seriously, what's it going to hurt to disconnect it for a while and see what happens? Assuming of course the vehicle has one, the OP says his 2010 doesn't but I'd have to verify hands on and not blindly believe something I read on the neenerweb, especially (as he states) when "it seems...." is involved.