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I do not know if O2 is working or not. With KOEO test I only see:
81 Secondary -Air Injection Diverter (AIRD) solenoid circuit failure
82 Secondary Air Injection Bypass (AIRS) solenoid circuit failure
which is expected they are not on the truck.
Nothing related to EGR or O2 codes yet.
I was able to keep it running and after 2-3 minutes it stopped surging and idled great. Then after about 10 minutes it started surging and hunting again for idle.
I am going to pull the codes again this morning and see if anything new shows up.Then pull battery cable and this afternoon crank it and let it get to operating temperature and then see if I get any new codes to show up.
Then start from scratch again testing the sensors to see if I can find a fault or bad spot in them. The ole Simpson seen more action in the last 2 weeks then in last 20 years.
I have a feeling a sensor is dropping out of range when the engine gets up to full temperature. And that same sensor could be causing the problem on cold start.
Well I finally have 1 sensor that is reading OL on cold engine. The Intake air temperature sensor is testing bad. Not sure if replacement will fix my problem but at least not throwing parts at it with finding this sensor bad.
NLA from Ford. Anyone had any dealings with the aftermarket brands? Delphi,Standard Motor Parts?
Truck up and running 100% better today. Put a new Air Charge Temp sensor in and a coolant temp sensor. Truck after it warmed up idled for 20 minutes. Will let it cool down again and crank it back up in the morning and see how it does.
Truck up and running 100% better today. Put a new Air Charge Temp sensor in and a coolant temp sensor. Truck after it warmed up idled for 20 minutes. Will let it cool down again and crank it back up in the morning and see how it does.
As of yesterday when I started it no surging. I am going to give it another try today and see how it does at first crank and then let it idle for a few minutes to see if it stays settled down.
Between the Air charge Temp sensor being bad and the ECT sensor being only between 5-600 ohms low (cold) changing them made big difference.
At 60°f outside this morning it would start right up jump up to the fast idle and when it drop back from 1200 rpm it would stall out. Tried it 6 times same thing.
Well at least now I making some progress as after it started warming up yesterday it idled fine. Time to start back probing a few more sensors to see what may be a little out of specs when cold and when they are hot. Being it sat 14 years and maybe mostly 100% original would not surprise me at all the sensors or failing cold and or hot.
What IAC is installed? Have you pulled the computer and inspected the board for damage? For testing purposes you can remove and cap all the vacuum lines at the manifold except for the MAP sensor and fuel pressure regulator.
As far as I know the IAC is still original. I have not pulled the ECM I have new caps on order for it. I am going to try some more test on the MAP and retest the IAC. I know when you unplug it the motor shuts off and cannot remember what the ohm reading was when I checked it last week. I have replace vacuum lines and all is good on vacuum side. There is a small leak in the EGR diaphram and it also does not seal 100% so the exhaust to intake is blocked off at moment just have the vacuum connected to work the egr sensor.
I will be pulling the ECM when the caps get here to replace them. I just go back thru the sensors again and maybe find another one or 2 or 3 out of specs. My first 2 will be the TPS and MAF. After i starts warming up thing run great sit and idle.
Yesterday was first time it has ran since June 2008. It was parked because fuel tank had a leak.