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2003 F350 7.3
I installed new bellowed up pipes, stage 2 turbo, plennum insterts ,IC tubes and boots.
I'm running a TS6, 4 inch downpipe to 5 inch and a big air filter. I do not yet have a boost leak tester or mechanical Guage. I will be getting them asap but my question for now is the boost readings I'm getting on my CTS3 don't pass 14.. just want to know if I could be making more than that but the PCM is being fooled by the TS6 or something else is wrong? I find it weird that my CTS3 boost only shows other than 0 under heavy load.
I Def hear and feel the turbo kick in and spool up. My connection to the collector and spider are flush.
I have no clue. I bought the truck with it.. Stock, High idle, 50hp, 75hp, 100hp & 150hp. I drive it in the 100hp setting without going to crazy and I don't tow. I thought TS's were standard and the Hydras were programmable
You can get the same tunes on either. The TS6 is just older hardware/technology, it requires sending it in for updates/revisions vs Hydra can be changed by you on a laptop by receiving tunes by email from tumer and then you transferring it to the Hydra by a cable. The Hydra also holds more tunes than the TS6, 14 I think.
I use a TS6
I asked who's tunes because some tooners do odd things like SES light on over boost and defuel, vs many turn that factory feature off
My boost is usually pretty low unless I'm towing or getting pretty crazy with it.
I would be uncomfortable driving in +100 all the time without a pyro....
My boost is usually pretty low unless I'm towing or getting pretty crazy with it.
I would be uncomfortable driving in +100 all the time without a pyro....
This right here. With mods like these you really need at least an EGT gauge. I'd recommend a 3 or 4 gauge setup. I prefer dedicated analog gauges over data interpreted from the DLC.
I want boost, Pyro, coolant and fuel pressure? What you think. I just have to look up where to put the sensors for coolant and fuel pressure. I know I should have had them by now
Boost, mechanical with source in AIH plug. Aids diagnosis, fun to watch.
Pyro/EGT plumbed into typical DS exhaust manifold location. Keep you from melting critical reciprocating stuff.
Fuel pressure plumbed after fuel filter. Boring and useless 99% of the time. Then one day driving back from Buffalo Wild Wings the truck starts acting funny, and checking that solves half the diagnosis.
Trans temp if you have an AT. The dash gauge for that is calibrated to keep you ignorant, you need real info.
Coolant temp the dash gauge is fine. It actually reads oil temp but that is a perfectly valid analog for coolant.
Other folks will have different opinions, of course.
My truck came with a standard tuned TS many years ago. I can verify it would only read like 14psi max on a CTS. (Unless my memory is totally lost). The tuning monkeys with the PCM reading for boost. I’ve had another tuner that does that as well. I wouldn’t worry myself over “low” boost reading from the PCM on the CTS if everything seems to be running correctly.
I didn’t catch if you are auto or standard. I’m assuming standard based on your planned gauge selection. If you are auto, I would recommend sending the TS out for new tunes or dropping the money for a Hydra. The TS standard tuning is known to be harsh on transmissions. It shifts harsh and unrefined.
Two most important gauges in my opinion is pyro(EGT) and fuel pressure. Just like aawlbernin said, FP is boring most of the time. Just a very useful diagnostic tool when something goes wrong. Best place for a fuel pressure sensor is bottom passenger side fitting on the back of the fuel bowl. This is POST filter pressure. The easier to access port up top is PRE filter.
I want boost, Pyro, coolant and fuel pressure? What you think. I just have to look up where to put the sensors for coolant and fuel pressure. I know I should have had them by now
You need to step back, get a baseline and take some notes or screenshots so that you don't have to remember where you started. Your observations of performance may be on par with where you should be, but may not align with your perception of where the level of performance should be.
Stage 2 KC turbo with OEM/AD injectors? Just want to make sure we are clear.
Did you purchase new clamps with the boots are are you reusing the OEM clamps? Specifically the plenum clamps being reused?
Without doing the boost leak after replacing so much boost related stuff we'd just be spitballing.
With everything stone cold spray the uppipe to manifold connections with soapy water, turn on engine and check the connection for bubbles
^This...
Originally Posted by kbeefy
My boost is usually pretty low unless I'm towing or getting pretty crazy with it.
I would be uncomfortable driving in +100 all the time without a pyro....
^^This...
Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
This right here. With mods like these you really need at least an EGT gauge. I'd recommend a 3 or 4 gauge setup. I prefer dedicated analog gauges over data interpreted from the DLC.
^^^This...
Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
My favorites:
Boost, mechanical with source in AIH plug. Aids diagnosis, fun to watch.
Pyro/EGT plumbed into typical DS exhaust manifold location. Keep you from melting critical reciprocating stuff.
Fuel pressure plumbed after fuel filter. Boring and useless 99% of the time. Then one day driving back from Buffalo Wild Wings the truck starts acting funny, and checking that solves half the diagnosis.
Trans temp if you have an AT. The dash gauge for that is calibrated to keep you ignorant, you need real info.
Coolant temp the dash gauge is fine. It actually reads oil temp but that is a perfectly valid analog for coolant.
I appreciate all the info guys. You pretty much answered all my questions. The boost readings could be wrong due to invalid electronic guages. I'll be getting some mechanical guages along with a boost leak detector to really get to the bottom of this. I guess you answered the question to if I should add then 100psi edge add on or mechanical. Since you say electronic readings are slower I'll prob go with the mechanical.
Yes it's an automatic, and yes its a Stage 2 KC on stock injectors. I replaced the boots with the ones ordered from Riffraf. Clamps are new as well.
Thank you for that link. That's pretty cool you guys do that!
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