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i had a rear hard brake line crack. just replaced it w/ some NiCopp I bent myself.
My question is re the proportioning valve as I'm new to this. Appears only the rear reservoir of fluid drained. Front reservoir is still filled to the top.
I read that the bleeder pin needs to be pulled forward before bleeding. Is this true if I'm just bleeding the rears? I was going to use the old school method of pump, pump, hold, while I crack the bleeder valve at the rears, right side first then left side.
I should probably bleed the fronts as well since I just acquired this truck and have no idea of it's maintenance schedule, but wanted some insight on the role of the bleeder pin in all of this.
Yes, to properly bleed, pull and hold the pin out on the front of the prop. valve while bleeding. I use a small pair of vise grips.
Use a turkey baster or large syringe to get most (not all) of the old fluid out of the mc before bleeding. It makes getting fresh fluid to the cylinders/calipers faster.
Large reservoir is just for the front brake (wheel cylinders), small rear reservoir is for the rear brake (wheel cylinders). If you bleed the system to the point the master cylinder is empty and pulling air, you need to "bench bleed" the master cylinder 1st again. Yes that means take it off, just Google/U tube bench bleeding a master cylinder. When you bleed it too and thru the wheel cylinders you need to keep each master cylinder reservoir FULL. Pushing the pin in or holding out is based off GVWR. Make a hold out tool out of a piece of sheet metal.
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